Watercooling experiment (based on my system)

JonJ678 said:
M4 would sell it for me immediately. Its so convenient being able to buy nuts and bolts that fit from the local engineering shop. M4 posh? I'm not sure Ive met a posh engineer yet :D

8 fins per inch would be good for me, but quite bad for your i7 I fear. Few fins means quieter fans can be used, but also means rather worse heat dissipation for a given airflow. It's all about surface area for radiator performance. Definitely looking like the black ice is the one to go for
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thats what i thought jon
 
Ah my bad, I missed where you said this. Any plans for the old radiator? If the hole isn't too major repair might go well, daresay it still has value on mm.

I'm looking forward to seeing how much temperatures drop with the better radiator. Enjoy :)
 
JonJ678 said:
Ah my bad, I missed where you said this. Any plans for the old radiator? If the hole isn't too major repair might go well, daresay it still has value on mm.

I'm looking forward to seeing how much temperatures drop with the better radiator. Enjoy :)
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the whole is only small (the die just caught the main tube), and i can solder it easily, and it will be just like new, but i dont like to try my luck so i will mend it and use it as a spare.
 
You can get liquid for repairing radiators, I assume it sets on contact with air. Might be worth looking into if solder goes wrong.

How about hanging the now damaged radiator off the back? If it leaks, your desk will get a bit damp. Could turn the fans on it off when its idling/browsing/playing music, and turn them on when encoding etc. No sound penalty, takes up a bit more room, considerably better temperatures.
 
JonJ678 said:
You can get liquid for repairing radiators, I assume it sets on contact with air. Might be worth looking into if solder goes wrong.

How about hanging the now damaged radiator off the back? If it leaks, your desk will get a bit damp. Could turn the fans on it off when its idling/browsing/playing music, and turn them on when encoding etc. No sound penalty, takes up a bit more room, considerably better temperatures.
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I can solder the rad without a problen, it just needs too dry out and it will solder 100% i have done loads of rads this way, not pc rads but car rads that are under pressure, they braise/solder rads in the trade, thats how they are made

i just dont trust a broke rad with £1000+ worth of pc gear, on a car it makes no difference it just lose's water
 
I was under the impression it was the joints that were brazed, not holes in the pipes. Still, I would expect brazing to solve the problem. PC water cooling is not very high pressure after all.

If the rads outside the case and leaking slowly, it's not going to hurt your loop. I'm fairly sure you have a reservoir. Think you'll give it a go? Fair enough if not, I'm still trying to avoid external radiators
 
JonJ678 said:
I was under the impression it was the joints that were brazed, not holes in the pipes. Still, I would expect brazing to solve the problem. PC water cooling is not very high pressure after all.

If the rads outside the case and leaking slowly, it's not going to hurt your loop. I'm fairly sure you have a reservoir. Think you'll give it a go? Fair enough if not, I'm still trying to avoid external radiators
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yeah i dont want an external rad either, yes they are barzed*, but you can solder a hole because its copper

Dry the hole, clean it up, then flux it, warm it, then clean it again, flux it then solder it, good as new
 
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Well i bought a new rad, Black Ice GT Xtreme 240 Radiator, its a nice rad, well made, sturdy, and looks the part.

BUT it is no cooler than my swiftech was, the only thing i can put this down to is that the swiftech provided fans are not upto the job, or the fins on the rad are so dense that the air can't push through the rad?

These are the fans that are blowing onto the rad at the moment.

Ruilian Science RDM1225s (which came with the swiftech water cooling kit)

Description/Primary features: 120mm class fan, with RPM sensor.
Construction: Low noise sleeve bearing.
Current: .23A
Speed: 2,000 RPM
Static Pressure: 2.7 mmH20
Volume: 81.3 CFM
Audible Noise 36 dB/A @ 12 VDC, 26 dB/A @ 7 VDC

i have these setup and running at 7v, because at 12v its like a helicopter taking off
 
beh* said:
sorry but i'm one of those foreign people - should i give your job back :confused:

hang on - isn't my tax money paying for your rad lol ? In that case, don't get the blackice - my/our money would be much better spent on a PA120.3 :p
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pmsl, where are you from?

i dont blame the people coming to britain for work, i blame our government for allowing this to happen
 
Well i really need new fans.
the temps have not changed much with a new rad and shrouds, and the fans that swiftech provide are 37dba at full speed, so i think i am going to give the Akasa AK-FN057 Apache Super Silent 120mm Fan a try

- Super silent APACHE fans in camouflage colors
- S-FLOW fan blade design delivers 30% higher airflow
- IP-54 military standard moisture and dust protection
- Super silent with PWM auto speed control
- Hydro Dynamic Bearing extends fan life up to 50,000 hours
- Dimension 120 X 120 X 25mm
- Bearing HDB (Hydro Dynamic Bearing)
- Speed 600 -1300 RPM
- Max airflow 57.53 CFM (97.74 m3/h)
- Sound level 6.9 -16.05 dB(A)
- Max static air pressure 26.40 mm-H2O
- Rated voltage 12V
- Connector PWM-4pin

obviously the static pressure is wrong in the specs, i just hope everything else is correct, i wonder if i can return them if it is false, hmmm


idol 34,34,35,31
load 54,54,55,51
 
Your call man. I'd vote for tried and tested over fans which say theyre good, are not yet reviewed, and typed the only important number wrong.

Scythe gentle typhoons were I buying.

Have you hung the old one off the back? Can't hurt, will definitely help, costs you nothing :)
 
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