Watercooling - I am drowning!

Soldato
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Have you considered dumping your 7950s and migrating to a single card setup, for which you could buy a proper full block?

Yes, it's going to cost you extra but it will alleviate no end of headache. Depending on what you could fetch for your current GPUs it might be worth considering.
 
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Have you considered dumping your 7950s and migrating to a single card setup, for which you could buy a proper full block?

Yes, it's going to cost you extra but it will alleviate no end of headache. Depending on what you could fetch for your current GPUs it might be worth considering.
I am indeed.

I think I am going to go for Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion universal copper edition. Its cheap and if it doesn't work then meh, I will have to buy a new gfx card to do what I want.

I want to get ordering but would appreciate peoples opinions on:

1) What will I lose by not having an RX240 [60mm] rad and only a EK240 [30mm] rad. Is the 60mm overkill or its better to have it than not.
2) Can one 60mm Rad be enough for everything?
3) I made some minor tweaks to what MrMD suggested, this current shopping list should work?
 
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Bit of an update I ordered everything so should be coming tomorrow at some point. Will probably take me till the weekend to get underway due to work.

I managed to sell one of my 7950s for a good price to recoup some of the costs. I am really happy about this as xfire was so pony. Just going to watercool one of the cards which will save money on fittings, block etc...

:)
 
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Get a premix solution which contains inhibitors/biocides.

I dunno about that, I've always found that ultra pure sterile water (the term "18MOhm" is the key here) and a silver coil as sufficient to keep a loop clean for years at a time.

I'd generally say use as few additives as possible to avoid any possibilities of gunk / corrosion problems.
 
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Hello all,

So after 1.5 years of my watercooling just sitting in a box, I finally got round to installing it.:D

Everything went swimmingly well and the only issue I got now is a little tidy up with one of the hose lengths being a tad longer so when I drain the system I will fix that.

So currently running my i7 2600k @ 4.7ghz at 1.36v with temps in HWMonitor at showing as 62c max, motherboard is showing 53c during a heavy gaming session. In benchmarks like Firestrike and Heaven the CPU doesn't reach that high and I also noticed if I limit the frames in a game like Quake Champions to 144fps the CPU doesn't go above 53 degrees. If I uncap the FPS it goes up to 60-62 degrees. Same behavior with my 980ti also.

I have some questions:

1) Are the temps in line with what they should be?
2) I used the paste that came with EK Supereme EVO block - I read it was high quality paste. Should I used something like Artic Silver 5 or bought grizzly?
3) Got my 2600k to 4.9Ghz at 1.42v. Ran through benchmarks fine. Ran initially find through a gaming session but the next day it blue screened on me a few times. Is it worth me trying to get it stable at 4.9Ghz and trying high vcore like 1.45?

It the back of my mind I am wondering weather I need to re-seat the block and see if the coverage of the paste was good first time round? I used the "pee" method. Ultimately I want to squeeze as much out of the system as possible but if the trade off is too much heat or a burnt out CPU then may just leave it and be happy with 4.7Ghz...Just seems a waste as I got 4.6Ghz at 1.35v with my Corsair H80i.
 
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wow .. now that is some serious sitting time before install, and I thought I was slow :p

The one question i dont have is "How hot in the loop getting?" as we dont have a water temp sensor in there.

Is the air coming through the rads warm when in use?

And no im not an expert :)
 
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wow .. now that is some serious sitting time before install, and I thought I was slow :p

The one question i dont have is "How hot in the loop getting?" as we dont have a water temp sensor in there.

Is the air coming through the rads warm when in use?

And no im not an expert :)
Yea, I was just too busy with other projects :)

Yea warm air is definitely coming from the rad when gaming. That would indicate its doing its job right?
 
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Your temps seem pretty great to be honest but fire up something like Realbench stress test or IBT and see what happens.

You'll prob find anything beyond 1.425v becomes much more difficult to cool.
Been doing a lot of tweaking lately trying to hit 4.8/4.9ghz stable. Of course it has meant hours of IBT/Prime/Realbench

Currently with a 1hour Prime 95 blend: 1.40vcore, 1.605 PLLv, VCCIO 1.07 and 4.8ghz clock I am seeing 71 degrees max. With IBT I am seeing 74.

This morning I dropped vcore down to 1.395 as I think i got enough stability to go down a little on vcore and I am seeing after 20 minutes Prime blend 67 degrees max.

Part of me thinks it should be lower. Maybe the contact isnt that great on the CPU Block and I have read this can be an issue with the Supremacy Evos. What is everyone's thoughts? I would have thought it should be early 60s with water but if I am to hit 4.9ghz or 5.0ghz i will need more voltage.
 
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Soldato
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Sounds about right to be honest. When I had my 2700k under a XSPC Raystorm block 1.4v+ was particularly hot running (70c+) even with multiple attempts at reseating the thing. If you’re using a EK block I would expect temps to be a bit lower, but not by much. Best stay below 1.4v if you can and you’ll be fine.
 
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Sounds about right to be honest. When I had my 2700k under a XSPC Raystorm block 1.4v+ was particularly hot running (70c+) even with multiple attempts at reseating the thing. If you’re using a EK block I would expect temps to be a bit lower, but not by much. Best stay below 1.4v if you can and you’ll be fine.
Cheers mate.

I think when i drain system I'll investigate the tim spread and see what it is like. Currently they are good for what they are now so no need to change and in gaming scenarios like Doom the CPU didnt go above 56 degrees.

I'll be pushing for 4.9Ghz so I will see what the temps are like then.
 
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