Watercooling with house type radiator??
- Thread starter Skree
- Start date
ok.
Bleed Valve, blank and 2 straight connectors, these came in a combo blister pack with a balance valve, and a thermostatic valve. the scraight couplers have no washers/o-ring so you must plaster them with ptfe and tghten till it hurts. the bleed valve and blank both have o-rings.
tip the rad to bring this to the highest point then block the outlet and turn on pump, when the rad is totally air-free make sure you close the valve tightly then keep inlet and outlet underwater so no air can get in.
blank and stright. i cant dismantle to give you a better view of the straight, sorry - its threadded about 60-70mm then about 1 inch long barb (well, without any barbs on it) the hose clamps are very tight to stop any leaks.
thats what i mean about the pipes - i just pinched it and....
edit:
im running orthos for an hour now to get some rough temps for you. room temp = 26 atm, rad = ~28c (idle) -using the highly acurate balance a thermometer on the top system. core temps are 50/50c @[email protected] (1.58real) at the start..
Bleed Valve, blank and 2 straight connectors, these came in a combo blister pack with a balance valve, and a thermostatic valve. the scraight couplers have no washers/o-ring so you must plaster them with ptfe and tghten till it hurts. the bleed valve and blank both have o-rings.
tip the rad to bring this to the highest point then block the outlet and turn on pump, when the rad is totally air-free make sure you close the valve tightly then keep inlet and outlet underwater so no air can get in.
blank and stright. i cant dismantle to give you a better view of the straight, sorry - its threadded about 60-70mm then about 1 inch long barb (well, without any barbs on it) the hose clamps are very tight to stop any leaks.
thats what i mean about the pipes - i just pinched it and....
edit:
im running orthos for an hour now to get some rough temps for you. room temp = 26 atm, rad = ~28c (idle) -using the highly acurate balance a thermometer on the top system. core temps are 50/50c @[email protected] (1.58real) at the start..
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with ref mounting to the case - i have a koolance 2PC601, its based on the chieftec... dragon iirc. the one with 4 5.25" bays. the rad stands about 2" taller than case from the floor. but would need to be lifted up.
these things are HEAVY it would more than double the weight of my pc to attach it, but it could be done if you have the right tools. you will need to brace the rad with some sort of feet tho - it would overbalance the case even with the feet out.
no transparent rads im afriad - they exist, as demo devices (see the secret life of machines episode on central heating for an example) but these are made of plastic - and so not good at radiating
you can always sand off the current paint, polishit to a shine, prime it and give it a very very shiney black finish, which would look just as good imho.
these things are HEAVY it would more than double the weight of my pc to attach it, but it could be done if you have the right tools. you will need to brace the rad with some sort of feet tho - it would overbalance the case even with the feet out.
no transparent rads im afriad - they exist, as demo devices (see the secret life of machines episode on central heating for an example) but these are made of plastic - and so not good at radiating
you can always sand off the current paint, polishit to a shine, prime it and give it a very very shiney black finish, which would look just as good imho.
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In CustomPC (Issue #1) a guy named Karl Brisco did this but with a radiator from a butcher friends old fridge/ freezer (Chest freezer type I think.)
He drilled two holes through his wall for the pipes and mounted it on the outside side wall of his house. (Come on cold winter nights!
)
It worked brilliantly and he got his 1800+ Athlon XP at almost 3GHz.
He drilled two holes through his wall for the pipes and mounted it on the outside side wall of his house. (Come on cold winter nights!
)It worked brilliantly and he got his 1800+ Athlon XP at almost 3GHz.
for passive cooling, high density = bad, and im running passive for £30. if you can run oced passive using £30 of normal wc rads (as sold on ocuk).... 
they do take up a lot of room. but look arround your pc - there will be a lot of room to put it anyway.
there are advantages and disadvantages to it.
pipe colour isnt nice, for example. and the bulk/weight.
but, truely silent running. (ever noticed how loud your keyboard is? i hate the whistle my hdd's make, and the creaks my mouse makes... ARGHHH)
cost is also down - unless you scrapyard yourself a heater core for £10.
Edit:
its been 55 mins, temps have leveled out, cpu at 58/57. room temp still 26c, water temp is now 34c. 50-57 = 7c, 28-34 = 6c
0.2662539939866349 is my system oC/w rating (http://benchtest.com/calc.html) radiator is managing to shed 116w over a 8c gradiant = 14.5w/c assuming i had a quad, at say 150w and dual gpu's in the loop at 75w each... id have a water temp of 46c... less, infact as the rad will dissipate better as temps rise.
they do take up a lot of room. but look arround your pc - there will be a lot of room to put it anyway.
there are advantages and disadvantages to it.
pipe colour isnt nice, for example. and the bulk/weight.
but, truely silent running. (ever noticed how loud your keyboard is? i hate the whistle my hdd's make, and the creaks my mouse makes... ARGHHH)
cost is also down - unless you scrapyard yourself a heater core for £10.
Edit:
its been 55 mins, temps have leveled out, cpu at 58/57. room temp still 26c, water temp is now 34c. 50-57 = 7c, 28-34 = 6c
0.2662539939866349 is my system oC/w rating (http://benchtest.com/calc.html) radiator is managing to shed 116w over a 8c gradiant = 14.5w/c assuming i had a quad, at say 150w and dual gpu's in the loop at 75w each... id have a water temp of 46c... less, infact as the rad will dissipate better as temps rise.
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