Well I fell down the custom keyboard world.

With HE boards, do you always need some kind of software running in the background for those tweaks to apply? Or is it done via a web base portal like VIA?
 
99% of the time the software is web based and all it does is act as the frontend for the keyboard's onboard memory and all customisations are stored on there . Some HE boards need desktop software though, but it doesn't have to be running, like NZXT's software for the Function Elite TKL, it's tool you install and customisations store onboard again, but no web based software like QMK/VIA/ZMK etc is available from NZXT yet.

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Been dealing with my sister-in-law's estate and typing many furious emails to a leech of a landlord and his letting agent. Whilst my blood pressure and anger levels have reached cataclysmic heights this morning, I've actually enjoyed the typing...

...it's the little things, eh?
 
Does anyone have any good / bad experiences of the latest keyboard kits on AliX namely Weikav Stars80 or Stars75, Lucky75 or Lucky80 or LuckyD75? Fancy trying one of these now they are in the summer sale.
 
Does anyone have any good / bad experiences of the latest keyboard kits on AliX namely Weikav Stars80 or Stars75, Lucky75 or Lucky80 or LuckyD75? Fancy trying one of these now they are in the summer sale.
I have the Stars75. It's excellent:
The Lucky versions have a ball-catch opening rather than screws, so it's easier for fiddling/modding, but i just wanted to try different switches so the Stars75 suited me.
 
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I have the Stars75. It's excellent:
The Lucky versions have a ball-catch opening rather than screws, so it's easier for fiddling/modding, but i just wanted to try different switches so the Stars75 suited
Is it much of an issue having the power on/off under the Caps Lock?
 
Is it much of an issue having the power on/off under the Caps Lock?
Not at all - switch is in the On position, but I use FN & T (iirc) to select wired mode when at my desk, or FN & R for 2.4Ghz if I want to use it from the sofa...

...but at 2kg, it's not the most comfy thing for lap gaming on the big TV. I much prefer the Cyclone 2 controller.
 
Evening all.

I'm teetering on the edge of the rabbit hole.

I've used gaming keyboards in one form or another over the years from membrane keys to mechanical and now the scissor keys in my MX Keys.

Anyway I do a lot of typing for work.and my MX Keys is 4 years old and showing its age, so I figured I'd replace it.

Did a bit of googling and educated myself a little and now realise there's a place in my life for a hot swappable keyboard.

So, I would be grateful for advice. I don't really want to start another expensive hobby, but I'm also not expecting to buy my dream keyboard for a tenner.

My hour or so of googling means I'm still ignorant of all the ins and outs but so far the checklist of what I think I want is:

*100% ISO UK layout (I need the numpad!).
*Needs to be hot swappable and ideally able to take a versatile range of switches.
*Ideally has great build quality and reliability.
*Coming from MX Keys would prefer a lower profile chassis and key profile so I don't need a wrist rest like I did with my Ducky Shine 3.
*Ideally Bluetooth and USB connectivity as a minimum.
*Pretty certain I'm in the thocky camp rather than clack.
*Not wanting key presses that are too light, but don't want long travel. Want a degree of tactile feedback but quiet/dampened.
*Prefer a weighty keyboard that stays put.
*Keyboard will be used exclusively for word processing and I routinely type 20k-50k words over any given week.
*No technical coding language requirements (all my typing is standard conventional English)
*Ideally like a degree of backlighting but not too bothered about gaudy RGB stuff (although that would also work as I could just use a single colour).
*Needs to be plug and play or configurable via software with settings stored on keyboard (I will need to configure on personal computer and then use keyboard on work computer that has software installs locked down).
*Looking to spend around £200-£250

Happy to buy pre built or a simplified bare bones. I'm not a custom keyboard connoisseur so it doesn't need to be a full customisable kit or anything, but if my budget stretches to more customisation options I wouldn't mind them being available for future use. Main things I want is comfort, accuracy and reliability.

Sorry for the appalling look of the list but couldn't seem to find the bullet point setting!
 
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I think Keychron, or any of the mechanical keyboard is that they have a high front lip. I can't use any of them without a wrist rest.

Also, with regard to the numpad. Why not get a separate one? It's what I have done. Just move it away when not needed and move it into a place when you need it. You can even move it to the right of your mouse even.
 
you can pick up a Keychron K5 for just over £100 which ticks a fair few of those boxes I think, if you're not 100% sure
Thanks for the suggestion, I've been and had a look at that. Looks nice. I'd go for the K5 Max I think.

Trouble is finding one from a UK retailer. I found one on on the rainforest place but it seems to be US layout, or that is to say the pictures are US layout and the product info doesn't specifically state UK. The only UK layout ones I can find are the bog standard K5 or the K5 Pro.

Keychron direct had the K5 Max in stock 5 mins ago, but is now showing out of stock for both red and brown switches. I reckon browns will be more my style.

I'm also reading of difficulties with buying low profile key caps with full UK layout coverage. Lots and lots of ire on t'interwebs!

Any thoughts on reliable low profile cap sets / retailers where I could get new caps if I wanted to?

I think Keychron, or any of the mechanical keyboard is that they have a high front lip. I can't use any of them without a wrist rest.

Also, with regard to the numpad. Why not get a separate one? It's what I have done. Just move it away when not needed and move it into a place when you need it. You can even move it to the right of your mouse even.

Yeah I have noticed that most mechs are chonky! I considered a separate numpad but then it's one more thing to remember to pack / carry / lose and I use the numpad frequently (daily) so it would end up being permanently right next to the keyboard, so I might as well just get a keyboard with a numpad on it already.
 
If you see a Keychron in ISO that you want, regardless of switches...just buy it. The difference between one that comes with switches and keycap vs a barebone board is like £20. It might be months before it comes into stock again. You can always change the switches and keycaps anyway, and I always do.
 
Full size, weighty, ISO, wireless, VIA, £250.... sounds like the Q6 to me. The Max version with Banana tactiles appears to be in stock direct from the manufacturer, prebuilt. I wouldn't bother with a Keychron barebones because the price difference is usually tiny.

I have the original Q6 and it's what I use 99% of the time for work. Fantastic board and very tuneable and solid- I'm pretty sure it has its own gravitational field.
 
I'm thinking a normal mech form factor will be the way to go. Much more choice and options for switches and key caps. I can get a wrist rest if needed.

Like the look of that Q6.

Not sure what the difference is between north and south LED lighting.

Hmmm, decisions decisions.
 
The north vs south facing LED its to do with whether you want to use shine through keycaps mainly because the legends for the letter is often on the top part of the keyboard. However, south facing LED provide more compatibility with different profile keycaps.

I would go with south facing LED boards.
 
The north vs south facing LED its to do with whether you want to use shine through keycaps mainly because the legends for the letter is often on the top part of the keyboard. However, south facing LED provide more compatibility with different profile keycaps.

I would go with south facing LED boards.
Good to know, thank you.
 
Ok so a couple of questions. I watched a video of someone typing on the Q6 Max and is seems a bit small side ways (left to right). The guys hands looked a bit cramped. Anyone here with a Q6 that can comment? Might just have been a weird optical angle / trick of the eye and/or the guy had giant hands!

Would be helpful if someone with a Q6 could measure the distance from the left of the caps lock key to the right of the enter key so I can use my current MX Keys for reference (it's about 279mm).

Also, I have noticed a Q6 HE model that is a bit more expensive but uses hall effect switches. Is there any logical reason and tangible benefits provided by hall effect switches over standard mech switches that come on the non HE version?
 
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