What do you guys use to put your multimedia stuff through the walls?

Soldato
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As per title. Things like ethernet, HDMI, etc. Was wondering if any of you guys had run this stuff through your walls and if so what's good, as I'm ignorant. I know brush sockets are always an option, but they're pretty naff and I don't really want the inside of old plaster walls exposed in any way, lol.

Is it euromod compatible sockets with euromod modules what people tend to do?
 
As per title. Things like ethernet, HDMI, etc. Was wondering if any of you guys had run this stuff through your walls and if so what's good, as I'm ignorant. I know brush sockets are always an option, but they're pretty naff and I don't really want the inside of old plaster walls exposed in any way, lol.

Is it euromod compatible sockets with euromod modules what people tend to do?

Terminating Cat cable into wall sockets is straightforward. The cable will bend okay in its sheath, and you'll strip off part of that leaving a short length of the 4 twisted pairs exposed, so routing gets easier still. Coax is fine too, though having a couple of RG6 cables fighting for space inside a dry lining box can make it a bit tricky to close things up without kinking a cable or popping out a grid module socket. You can get around some of this by the routing path for the cable before it gets to the backbox, and then making some additional holes for easier cable entry into the box.

The problem you'll have is with HDMI. The signal standard can be fussy about what's in the chain from source to display. This is particularly true if you're sending 4K signals. Have a look at some of your existing HDMI leads. Those plugs are not small. The tail and strain relief adds to the overall length. You have to try to fit that inside a drylining box and get it to line up with the grid module's rear HDMI socket, all without damaging the cable because you bent it too far and now the signal doesn't work, or having the grid module pop off all the time because the pressure from the back is just too much for the little plastic tangs to hold the socket in place. Then you plug in the HDMI cable to the front face of the grid module, and the leverage plus weight of the cable makes the module fall out anyway. Argghhhh!!!

Eventually you give up and go for a single or double gang face plate with 1 or two HDMI sockets. Now though you realise that you need to cut the wall to add some more sockets for any other cable connections. Oh, and you can't return the expensive grid modules because they're used.

Okay, now you got all your cables neatly in the wall and a bunch of wall sockets which ended up being spread over two feet. That's so you avoided any timber battens and left enough plasterboard between the sockets so the wall is still strong enough to support the dry lining boxes. It's more space taken up than you really wanted, and it took a lot longer and cost far more than you originally envisaged, but it's done. Now you come to hang the TV and the next problem rears its head.

The HDMI cable sticks straight out from the socket and fouls the back of the TV. Oh crap. So you go off to the web and find a vendor of 90 degree adapters. It arrives and you go up to make the connection, only there's a problem. You connect the adapter only to find that the fly-lead now points up the wall rather than hanging down. Bugger. There are two types. You didn't know or the supplier picked the order wrong. You mess around trying to sort that.

Finally you got your connections. The wall plates aren't falling out. The cable at the wall hangs down in the right direction. You've plugged in the HDMI lead and dealt with the excess cable that was poking out just below the TV. Great. You fire up your 4K source. No signal. Eh?? You switch through the AV inputs. Still no signal. You try to see which HDMI socket it's plugged in to and check the connection at the wall socket. It all looks okay. You even go to the trouble of taking the TV off te wall, undoing the wall socket and checking that the HDMI cable is correctly inserted at the back. Then you put it all back together again. Now you're absolutely sure which HDMI socket it is on the TV, so this time you know you'll get a picture.

Still nothing. WTF?!?

Now starts the real troubleshooting, and eventually you realise that either some bit in the chain isn't as 4K as the supplier lead you to believe, or just that having so many joints in the 4K path makes a mess of things.

This is why we use brush plates for HDMI connections. One cable - point-to-point - any excess tucked away in the wall. No joints, no adapters, no problem routing the cable to fit behind that low profile TV bracket you fancied. One day, job started and finished. TV by teatime. Maybe even half a day if things go smoothly.


Been there. Done it. Bought the T-shirt.
 
Terminating Cat cable into wall sockets is straightforward. The cable will bend okay in its sheath, and you'll strip off part of that leaving a short length of the 4 twisted pairs exposed, so routing gets easier still. Coax is fine too, though having a couple of RG6 cables fighting for space inside a dry lining box can make it a bit tricky to close things up without kinking a cable or popping out a grid module socket. You can get around some of this by the routing path for the cable before it gets to the backbox, and then making some additional holes for easier cable entry into the box.

The problem you'll have is with HDMI. The signal standard can be fussy about what's in the chain from source to display. This is particularly true if you're sending 4K signals. Have a look at some of your existing HDMI leads. Those plugs are not small. The tail and strain relief adds to the overall length. You have to try to fit that inside a drylining box and get it to line up with the grid module's rear HDMI socket, all without damaging the cable because you bent it too far and now the signal doesn't work, or having the grid module pop off all the time because the pressure from the back is just too much for the little plastic tangs to hold the socket in place. Then you plug in the HDMI cable to the front face of the grid module, and the leverage plus weight of the cable makes the module fall out anyway. Argghhhh!!!

Eventually you give up and go for a single or double gang face plate with 1 or two HDMI sockets. Now though you realise that you need to cut the wall to add some more sockets for any other cable connections. Oh, and you can't return the expensive grid modules because they're used.

Okay, now you got all your cables neatly in the wall and a bunch of wall sockets which ended up being spread over two feet. That's so you avoided any timber battens and left enough plasterboard between the sockets so the wall is still strong enough to support the dry lining boxes. It's more space taken up than you really wanted, and it took a lot longer and cost far more than you originally envisaged, but it's done. Now you come to hang the TV and the next problem rears its head.

The HDMI cable sticks straight out from the socket and fouls the back of the TV. Oh crap. So you go off to the web and find a vendor of 90 degree adapters. It arrives and you go up to make the connection, only there's a problem. You connect the adapter only to find that the fly-lead now points up the wall rather than hanging down. Bugger. There are two types. You didn't know or the supplier picked the order wrong. You mess around trying to sort that.

Finally you got your connections. The wall plates aren't falling out. The cable at the wall hangs down in the right direction. You've plugged in the HDMI lead and dealt with the excess cable that was poking out just below the TV. Great. You fire up your 4K source. No signal. Eh?? You switch through the AV inputs. Still no signal. You try to see which HDMI socket it's plugged in to and check the connection at the wall socket. It all looks okay. You even go to the trouble of taking the TV off te wall, undoing the wall socket and checking that the HDMI cable is correctly inserted at the back. Then you put it all back together again. Now you're absolutely sure which HDMI socket it is on the TV, so this time you know you'll get a picture.

Still nothing. WTF?!?

Now starts the real troubleshooting, and eventually you realise that either some bit in the chain isn't as 4K as the supplier lead you to believe, or just that having so many joints in the 4K path makes a mess of things.

This is why we use brush plates for HDMI connections. One cable - point-to-point - any excess tucked away in the wall. No joints, no adapters, no problem routing the cable to fit behind that low profile TV bracket you fancied. One day, job started and finished. TV by teatime. Maybe even half a day if things go smoothly.


Been there. Done it. Bought the T-shirt.

Bloody hell mate! :D

I would just run the HDMI along the skirting, but the problem is it's fairly thin stuff as I hate bulky thick skirting. Sounds like I'm gonna need to think this problem through a fair bit to see what I should be doing!

Maybe I can run some kind of flexible conduit system, at least then I could use brush plates or something without worrying about bloody spiders coming through! :eek:
 
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Problem is also as standards change .I've replaced hdmi cable three times now .

I just have my LCR, hdmi, subs cable trailed along wall going in front of fireplace hearth.

Routing around the wall would mean a few more meters which could be a issue with hdmi.
 
Problem is also as standards change .I've replaced hdmi cable three times now .

I just have my LCR, hdmi, subs cable trailed along wall going in front of fireplace hearth.

Routing around the wall would mean a few more meters which could be a issue with hdmi.

The distance in a straight line needed is just short of 3m, so add on a couple of metres to that to go around the wall.

It's mainly to go from a PC to a TV on the wall behind where I'd sit, and would like the cleanest look possible for when I'd use that TV for PC gaming or such.
 
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I have seen some skirting that's hollow for running cables. I thought the limit was 5m for 4k on hdmi anyway?

For standard cables, yes. Optical ones can go much higher. So, I should be able to run a 4K capable cable if I use brush sockets. But again… don't want no spiders coming out of me walls! I'd have to look into conduits, of which I also have no clue about. Hopefully you can just slam them into a socket back box, dab silicone around the entry point and no spiders getting their way in?

And yes, hollow skirting does exist, but then what do you do if we get fancier 8K cables in the future? Skirting having to come off would be a nightmare, as I ain't gonna be able to pull HDMI through a 90 degree wall bend!
 
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For standard cables, yes. Optical ones can go much higher. So, I should be able to run a 4K capable cable if I use brush sockets. But again… don't want no spiders coming out of me walls! I'd have to look into conduits, of which I also have no clue about. Hopefully you can just slam them into a socket back box, dab silicone around the entry point and no spiders getting their way in?

And yes, hollow skirting does exist, but then what do you do if we get fancier 8K cables in the future? Skirting having to come off would be a nightmare, as I ain't gonna be able to pull HDMI through a 90 degree wall bend!
I don't think there is a perfect solution. A guy I work with has a fibre-hdmi cable (not cheap, but he needed the length :D ). I don't know if the bandwidth is higher than a normal hdmi cable or not.
 
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if your going to put cables in the wall for speakers or TV the. ALWAYS use a conduit, as I found out to my peril when one of the cables failed. Any flexible pipe with a smooth interior will work which is wide enough for cables and their plug. One of my places I used a length of plumbing pipe cut a Chanel in the wall and then buried the pipe with it opening at both ends.
 
Can I jump onto this thread?
We're replacing the flooring in the living room of a house we've just bought and I'd like to put some conduits down with some cables before the floor goes back on. Currently there are just some audio cables in the floor, but is it worth pulling through some HDMI cables, ethernet or other stuff to make it future-proof?
I was thinking of an HDMI socket somewhere so that I could plug things into the TV easily without having to reach around the back, etc...

Worth getting audio cables up to the ceiling as well? They're just on the floor now. Obviously I'd hide everything in the plaster or behind a blanking plate until it's used (if ever).
 
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Either underneath the floor in a conduit or through the ceilings in conduit. Don’t bury the cables alone, you need it all to be replaceable should something fail or a connector break (as happened to me). Making sure you have a pull rope in each conduit to allow you to thread a new cable should one break or become obsolete.

I wouldn’t use HDMI termination plates as they introduce connections and become unreliable and add interference and for 4K/8k I believe don’t work. you need it to be a HDMI 2.1 cable remembering anything over approx 5m with a traditional copper cable will become unreliable (although there are some newer cables which do work apparently) I have a 15m Ruipro cable which is HDMI 2.1 and capable of 8k should it ever become available.

Someone once recommended but I’m not sure it’s smooth on the inside for cables to run without catching.
 
Good to know @DMZZ thanks :)

Will just pull through audio and Ethernet or dummy cables in conduits for now. Will place blanking plates at floor level and ceiling height to have all the bases covered for eventual speaker placement.
 
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The fiber HDMI cables are expensive so just be warned, but Ruipro for example guarantees them against manufacturing defects for life. If you can use just a certified copper cable then that’s best and cheapest.
 
The fiber HDMI cables are expensive so just be warned, but Ruipro for example guarantees them against manufacturing defects for life. If you can use just a certified copper cable then that’s best and cheapest.
Honestly it was just an idea. If HDMI wall sockets aren’t worth it then I won’t waste my money. Can just plug stuff into the TV; not a problem!

Ethernet and audio definitely. Any specific audio cables worth considering?
 
Can I jump onto this thread?
We're replacing the flooring in the living room of a house we've just bought and I'd like to put some conduits down with some cables before the floor goes back on. Currently there are just some audio cables in the floor, but is it worth pulling through some HDMI cables, ethernet or other stuff to make it future-proof?
I was thinking of an HDMI socket somewhere so that I could plug things into the TV easily without having to reach around the back, etc...

Worth getting audio cables up to the ceiling as well? They're just on the floor now. Obviously I'd hide everything in the plaster or behind a blanking plate until it's used (if ever).

Aside from speaker cables and possibly Ethernet, the idea of future-proofing for AV in general is a bit of a waste of time. Standards change, and the cables you paid over the odds for as a contingency when they were bleeding-edge tech end up becoming redundant before you have chance to use them. @DMZZ is correct. Put in conduit and pull cords ready for adding/changing stuff such as HDMI cables at the point you'll need them.

You can pre-wire points for speakers though, so if you have say a 5.1 system today but think you're likely to add Atmos in the future, then putting the speaker cables up the wall and across the ceiling makes sense. Speaker cable isn't expensive. The standards for that don't change. A 1.5mm or 2.5mm cable that was good 20 years ago is still good today, and will still be good in 20 years time.

There's another caveat to speaker pre-wiring beyond planning a couple of spots for the speaker points. It's what happens to your plans should the layout of the room change. This is one of those your-mileage-may-vary things as only you'll know if this is likely to be a concern.

Something that has paid dividends is putting in Ethernet cable. Wi-Fi is fine up to a point, but having a direct Gigabit line back to the router for the console when my lad brings it down, and the fire stick, and the Ethernet features on the AV receiver, and the Freeview recorder, and the BD and UHD players, and.... well, you get the idea. People get a bit obsessed though about Cat cable standards and speeds though. "Should I put in Cat 6a shielded or Cat 7?" Honestly, worrying about whether you need 10Gig at 600MHz or whether you can 'get by' with 500MHz is all pretty pointless when your router has Gigabit speed ports and even if you pay through the nose for some super-fast fibre package you'll still run into contention issues. Cat 6 is plenty enough for domestic use until routers start to come with 10Gig data ports.

What will make a difference to your data speeds is the quality of the Cat cable rather than its speed rating.

It turns out that those twists in the four pairs are more than just for show. They're pretty crucial to getting the claimed performance level. If the lengths don't have the correct twist rate, or the cable is inconsistent along its length, then the error correction is going to be working overtime to clean up the mess. That's going to be a bigger hit on performance than the difference between Cat5e and Cat6. U.S. company Bluejeans Cables has done a lot of work on this for their patch leads. The same principles apply though with Cat cable reels. http://www.bluejeanscable.co.uk/store/data-cables/index.htm It's sobering to think that you could be paying for Cat 6a which doesn't even meet Cat5e standards.
 
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Didn’t realise abt the how much the quality of the Ethernet cable makes a difference . You live and you learn!

Yh speaker wire hasn’t changed, you don’t need to go for anything expensive imho especially if your stuff is not super high end. I’m sure the Amazon basics stuff will be ok but I’m sure people will disagree!

Someone told actually the best place for an access point/router may actually be in the loft as it allows better WiFi distribution. So consider running a Ethernet cable up from your router location if you can and add an access point or mesh system.

I have an AV cupboard under the stairs where the router and AV kit comes into so it’s not on show and just a HDMI cable going to the TV+ Ethernet. Everything else is connected with patch cables in the cupboard in a cable jungle! But at least it’s hidden away.

The remotes become a problem tho and some things still rely on IR. But there are ways around that.
 
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Yh speaker wire hasn’t changed, you don’t need to go for anything expensive imho especially if your stuff is not super high end. I’m sure the Amazon basics stuff will be ok but I’m sure people will disagree!

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LOL.... there's always one, isn't there.

Anyway, the Amazon Basics stuff is cheap because it's aluminium coated in copper, and not a lot of it. Plated, coated, CCA; it's all the same.

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Opinions vary on whether CCA is okay to use. There's the usual snake oil BS about skin effect and how the signals travel at the surface.

Skin effect is real, but it varies by frequency. At 80Hz it's about 7mm into the surface, and that means you'd need a 14mm(!) diameter cable to contain it. That's not far off the diameter of a 5 pence piece. At 20kHz you're looking at a depth of around 0.5mm (500 micrometres). So how thick is the average copper coating layer? Answer: 25-75 micrometres, and with the cheap cable you can bet they're on the smaller number. Those numbers in millimetres: 0.025~0.075. To get a signal to travel within a 0.025mm skin depth you'd need an audio signal at 6.5 million Hz (6.5MHz). Yeah, copper coating is clearly the answer for speaker cables.... LOL

Folk also say that the extra resistance of aluminium isn't a problem. I'm not convinced by that. Speakers are a low Impedance load. You start messing around with higher resistance conductors in between the amp and the speakers, particularly where speakers can dip to a shade under 4 Ohms at certain frequencies, and there's a risk that the cables will cause some attenuation. That's the same as shifting a slider on a graphic equaliser. The effect might be subtle, but it's there and just for the sake of 70p a metre it changes the character of the sound. Why spend good money and time picking amps, speakers etc only to risk trashing the result with crap cable?
 
LOL.... there's always one, isn't there.
tbh when I bought my speaker cable I made sure about it being copper and not copper coated but I forgot to mention. You are right!

If you’re going to buy some and put it into the wall better going for something worthwhile, there is cable like the van damme cables which must be blessed with holy water or something! they were crazy expensive and I couldn’t justify it, even for my Miller & Kriesel
Speakers. I’m not that much of an audiophile where I could likely hear the difference!
 
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