Where can I buy this plug? (6 pin molex?)

Russinating

Russinating

Russinating

Soldato
Joined
27 Dec 2005
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Bristol
As title! Would prefer to buy it today, so is it a standard thing I could pick up from Maplin/Halfords/B&Q/car shop?

I want one to bypass power to a dashcam without soldering onto the car's original cable, so doesn't need to be long but just needs to be a female/male extension basically.

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Sorry, based on that then, it's a Kia Sportage (2010+) and it's the cable that powers the overhead lights and sunroof etc switches.

They don't look quite right but thank you for looking.

If it is proprietary and difficult to get hold off what would be best/least bodge method?
 
This will sound like a bit of a bodge but it's worked for me in the past - poke the cables for the dash cam's power into the relevant terminals on the "outside" of the plug, ensuring it's a snug fit, and then use a decent amount of insulation tape to hold it in place. They won't go anywhere.
 
Howard said:
This will sound like a bit of a bodge but it's worked for me in the past - poke the cables for the dash cam's power into the relevant terminals on the "outside" of the plug, ensuring it's a snug fit, and then use a decent amount of insulation tape to hold it in place. They won't go anywhere.
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Yep, this is how i have powered things like Bluetooth kits many times to avoid damaging the OEM looms. Never had an issue doing this. Usually i have crimped a little spade connector onto the end of the cable before wedging it into the loom connector.
 
They ruin the original wire and often fail to get a connection causing problems there, then if you remove they'll usually separate the wire too so you've got to sort that out. They are just not a nice thing to use and I (and many other people) find it amazing that people still advocate using them.

It's not a reversible solution (which is what the OP wants anyway) and as I say, messes up the old wiring so you may as well just do it properly if you want to cut and splice a wire and use solder and heat shrink.
 
I have found that those splicing block things eventually break the original wire with the vibrations of the car. Not good, one of those things left me stranded once after an ECU wire broke through.
 
An alternative, use an 'add a circuit fuse holder' from Amazon?

It will create a second circuit off a currently existing ignition live (presumably what you want?) fuse.

So you put replace the fuse with the fuse holder, add the original fuse into the fuse holder in one position and then add a second fuse for your dashcam into the other slot on the fuse holder. That's how my dashcam is powered
 
Yeah avoid the scotch lock type things. Used a few when installing a car alarm (did it for the remote central locking) in my 106 and every now and again up cropped a weak connection that took ages to identify, usually while the car refused to start or was cutting out at A-road speeds :(
 
Didn't work at all! So looking at piggy backing off a fuse. Where can I get a fuse tap from not online? As shoving the wire under the fuse didn't work at all :p
 
Shoving the wire under a fuse??

You were taking both a positive and negative connection from a piggy back of both positive and negative connection on that block and checking the ignition was on of it was a switched live etc? There's no reason it won't work, done it many times
 
Anyone ever used Posi-Lock connectors for this sort of job? I have used them before and liked them a lot, seems to avoid most of the issues with scotch-locks. They are expensive but re-usable and nice to work with, no need for crimp tools or similar.
 
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