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GeX

GeX

GeX

Soldato
Joined
17 Dec 2002
Posts
6,930
Location
Manchester
So, the last watercooled PC I built was this one;

heater_matrix.jpg

not_kinked.jpg


Things have certainly come on from heater matrixes and pond pumps, and I want to build a nice looking custom looped system.

Parts I have;
Asrock X670E (white PCB, ATX)
Ryzen 7950X
64GB RGB DDR5
Seasonic 1000W fully modular PSU
MSI 4080 Suprimx

Thinks I like;
www.overclockers.co.uk

Lian Li O11 Air Mini, Midi-Tower, Tempered Glass - White

Order Lian Li O11 Air Mini, Midi-Tower, Tempered Glass - White now online and benefit from fast delivery.
www.overclockers.co.uk www.overclockers.co.uk

What I've done so far;
Based on your choices we estimate the heat load (of the liquid cooled components) to be 830W.

Therefore we recommend the use of EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) on pedestal right and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) on Position front and EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) on Position bottom of your computer case.
Click to expand...

The case can support 280mm radiators though.

Things I don't know;
Is the reason behind using a res so that the system can bleed itself?
Should I do a single loop and pass through each rad one after another?
How do people do the nice neat bends?
What about fittings - are they universal?
 
If the case supports 280s and you don’t own any stuff already, then get the most radiator space you can.

Res helps fill and bleed a system. Distroplates can replace a res and sort of so the same thing, but typically with a cosmetic focus. Both can help or hinder tube runs depending on planning. Best bet is to copy a build you really like online and get the same parts.

Fittings are not 100% interchangeable. I have heard some say EK stuff can be a bit tight or even impossible with certain tubing (obviously fine with their own), but I have never had an issue. Stick to one tube size and ideally just buy one brand of fittings in the same size, and you are fine, but personally I mix and match just based on what is in my box of tricks.

Single loop, order of rads and components really does not matter.

Rad thickness matters a LOT less than surface area of rads. Don’t over obsess on that sort of stuff.

Best bends need a silicone insert to stop the tubing collapsing or creasing in on itself, slow but steady application of heat uniformly across the area to be bent, slow bends, reheat as necessary, and or course you want a bending tool or angle for most bends (I use cheap plastic ones and they work fine). Get ones they work with your tubing size.

12mm OD tubing only for really tiny SFF builds. 14 or 16 for big cases (I just found 12mm looks really odd in a big case).

Add a drain valve at the bottom of the loop. It will annoy you trying to work out how to fit it into the loop, it will keep you sane many times in the future.

Remember to enjoy!!!’
 
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Thanks for the pointers!

Heating the tube with.. hair dryer? Actually I have an SMD / hot air station that will do a more controlled job.
Bending tool?
I'm keen for good asthetics, so will look at distroplates.

Best bends need a silicone insert to stop the tubing collapsing or creasing in on itself
Click to expand...

This is why my really old build has 90degree elbows and copper tubing. The first version lacked them and tubes collapsed a lot when the coolant got warm!

image009.gif
 
guessing you want to do hard tubing not soft?
but soft or hard tubing is first decision
distro plates look nice
but i just found out the hard way
if using ek distro make certain that its either the non ek matrix 7
or it is the matrix 7 if also using new ek radiator line up
getting it wrong means stuff is 7mm out of line
and yeah all my stuff was 7mm out of line because i bought new ek radiators but
turns out my distro is version 1 not version 2
wasnt a happy xmas build for me
heat gun for bending
for acrylic or petg that is
for petg though not sure many people use them but
you can get inserts as a precaution of deformation if
the coolant temp gets too high
same idea as used in plastic plumbing when using push fittings
bending tool would be either
get a set of mandrels,do it just by eye,make yourself a set of forms
using wood or whatever material you can make the angles you want
 
Yeah the hard Tubing does look good
Though its more difficult if you have to do
Any sort of work in the PC
At least with soft Tubing I can just clamp a tube
If I need access and the Tubing in the way
Or I used quick disconnects
You can actually get push fittings for hard tube
I know one of the guys in here tried those
He had a lot of trouble so wouldn't recommend those

Lost track (as usual lol)
Did we mention get a leak tester?
Like a mini bicycle pump thing with a dial
Pump air in after each component you add to the loop
Check air pressure doesn't drop
If not add next component
You could just build it then test I guess
But then you only know it's leaking air but
Not where from

Edit
And here's an example of what made my stuff 7mm off
Ek decided to denote the new matrix stuff with
A stupid tiny little 2 squared sign

Quantum Reflection²​

 
Last edited:
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