which metal???

Copper is a better heat conductor than nickel, however the difference in real world usage for watercooling is barely noticable. The only two metals you can't mix together are copper and aluminium so just get the one you think looks best, it will make very little difference performance wise :)
 
dave_beast said:
Only if you use de-ionised water instead of distilled, as the de-ionised water attracts metal particles in the loop to replace removed ions (afaik)
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Is this the official line from EK? There isn't a great difference between deionised and distilled water. Once opened both pick up CO2 readily and should have the same affinity for copper.

I appreciate that EK have had some quality control issues with nickel plating recently, I just don't believe deionised water would attack things that distilled water doesn't.

@OP, EK's QA aside, copper and nickel will be fine. Your radiators are probably brass and copper, that's fine too. Aluminium bolted directly to copper can be bad (swiftech did this with some blocks years ago), but aluminium and copper in the same loop is tolerable if they're far apart and there's some form of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant.
 
Ek have supposedly fixed their plating issues with their new EN Nickel process. However it is still too soon to tell if their fix is actually working. For now if buying from EK I would stick to copper.
 
I really wouldn't go shaving bits off the rad. One wrong move and its ruined beyond repair.

You say its touching, is it JUST touching or is it physically resting on the heatsink?
 
its physically resting on it, pushing it down by about 2mm. the heat sinks are held on the mobo by spring loaded screws, just wondering if theres any slack there.
 
Shouldn't really be much if any slack, heatsinks along the top are usually for the VRM's

I'm just looking for some images of the top fan compartment without fans in to see if I can find a simple fix, iirc with the 500R you could bend the top mount slightly to give more room either way, wonder if its possible in the 810.

Edit: Found a pic, looks quite a solid structure unfortunately, but lots of holes, is it possible to offset the rad/fans?
 
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pgi947 said:
Edit: Found a pic, looks quite a solid structure unfortunately, but lots of holes, is it possible to offset the rad/fans?
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could be an option if i can send it to the cable side by about 5 mm i think it then may be fine.
rad thickness overall is about 84mm but where the fin section is there are metal sides which bend over to mount it and i'd say there about 5 mm, so just to give it that little extra i could bend those a little(there is no water in that part)

i'm sure when i can spend some time with it, i'll get it sorted :) big hammer!!!
 
Haha just take it easy and remember to leak test the rad before you fit it to the case and start filling it up :D

Also if you're cutting/filing cover up the fins before you start, you don't want a stray bit of metal falling into your system.
 
Just link up some tubing from res/pump to the rad with the rad out side of the case, at least that way if you've managed to puncture it, it won't leak all over your system :)
 
You will need a psu bridging adapter for this if you don't already have one. Otherwise your PSU won't switch on without being connected to the motherboard and you wont be able to power your pump and leak test outside of your case. OCUK do one for about £2 :)
 
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