Who here owns a Mini?


That looks like good fun! Is yours running stock power?

How did the Mini do? Any weak points on the car?

I'm off to Snetterton in a week and a half and I'm feeling like the brakes might be the weak link - even though they've been upgraded.
 
What brakes do you have again Gaygle?
I had a right mare today fitting my r56 brakes... Well, the brakes were a doddle. It was the hard lines that were a pain when trying to remove the old hoses.
Looking to make up some new hard lines now if I can find out online what size copper and fittings I need...
 
That looks like good fun! Is yours running stock power?

How did the Mini do? Any weak points on the car?

I'm off to Snetterton in a week and a half and I'm feeling like the brakes might be the weak link - even though they've been upgraded.

It's got a Manic stage 1 map on. AEM intake and Forge intercooler.
Brakes are Brembo discs with Ferodo DS2500 pads up front. They were great, no fading at all and I was braking later than a lot of others. Very happy in that sense.

Weak points would be getting the power down especially in the wet. I'm sure a nice diff would help sort that out. Better seats would be nice but it's mainly a commuter car, so I want to keep it nice for that too. And who wouldn't like more power... ;)
 
What brakes do you have again Gaygle?
I had a right mare today fitting my r56 brakes... Well, the brakes were a doddle. It was the hard lines that were a pain when trying to remove the old hoses.
Looking to make up some new hard lines now if I can find out online what size copper and fittings I need...

R56 Brembo discs and Mintex m1144 pads. I replied on your thread on MT. My front driver's side was rounding off, even with the correct flare nut spanner. I could tell it was seized solid and knew that if I damaged the brake line I'd be up **** creek so took it to the garage before I ruined the nut too much. Drivers side one just about came undone at the garage.

Gave mine some 15% KAVS fun as well the other day. Took around 3 hours to do and got caught in the pouring rain. It was unpleasant. But all done in the end, and my god does she now whine like a good 'un (along with the air box mod)
 
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It's got a Manic stage 1 map on. AEM intake and Forge intercooler.
Brakes are Brembo discs with Ferodo DS2500 pads up front. They were great, no fading at all and I was braking later than a lot of others. Very happy in that sense.

Weak points would be getting the power down especially in the wet. I'm sure a nice diff would help sort that out. Better seats would be nice but it's mainly a commuter car, so I want to keep it nice for that too. And who wouldn't like more power... ;)

Nice :cool: you must be running at about 250bhp?

The 4 pot Brembo calipers with those pads should work brilliantly. Ive got 6pot Brembos on the M3 and using cast iron brakes again just reminds me of how much heat they hold! Aluminium calipers dissipate it so quickly by comparison, but I'm hoping the Mintex pads will be able to take the heat.
 
Nice :cool: you must be running at about 250bhp?

The 4 pot Brembo calipers with those pads should work brilliantly. Ive got 6pot Brembos on the M3 and using cast iron brakes again just reminds me of how much heat they hold! Aluminium calipers dissipate it so quickly by comparison, but I'm hoping the Mintex pads will be able to take the heat.

Yeah it's somewhere around that figure, you get used to it though, been at that for over a year now.

Good brakes do give you confidence though!
 
R56 Brembo discs and Minted m1144 pads. I replied on your thread on MT. My front driver's side was rounding off, even with the correct flare nut spanner. I could tell it was seized solid and knew that if I damaged the brake line I'd be up **** creek so took it to the garage before I ruined the nut too much. Drivers side one just about came undone at the garage.

Gave mine some 15% KAVS fun as well the other day. Took around 3 hours to do and got caught in the pouring rain. It was unpleasant. But all done in the end, and my gone does she now whine like a good 'un (along with the air box mod)

Ah yes I did see you post, I did it arse about tit though and fitted the disc, caliper etc and then tried to swap the hoses... So now I have r56 brakes fitted but an r53 caliper dangling on the floor connected by the hose... I'll make a new pipe up today running from the ABS pump across and then just cut my standard bits off.

15% ah yes.... First mod power wise?
I couldn't help but feel that the mini in standard form is perfect, with a little more power the engine made the standard (12 year old worn out maybe) chassis struggle a little... It just seemed like you couldn't put a foot wrong as standard... A good dose of polybushing sorted that out though :D
Downside is you become used to the extra power and want more... Thant's how I ended up with a cam/injectors and remap lol :D

Next big upgrade for me will be the crank pulley, not that mine is shot but it definitly isn't doing too well, will likely have to cut it off though :( Also, when Lohen get those belt idle pulleys back in stock I'll nab one of those along with a new tensioner damper.
 
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XP8 pads are a bit much for me... Been hooning around and under braking it has actually made me feel dizzy. Not sure I've ever felt deceleration like it. Will be interesting if it dries up a bit :D

I am on the look out for a lesser pad though... The novelty of the squeal is wearing off...

In other news I replaced the Powerflex engine mounts with OE ones... Got rid of some of the cabin vibrations, although I gotta say I did prefer the feel of the gear changes with the polybushes in.
 
15% ah yes.... First mod power wise?

Not quite, it complements the other usual mods, but definite the best bang for buck. Was quite a nice DIY to do, but you need the right tools to do it.

I couldn't help but feel that the mini in standard form is perfect, with a little more power the engine made the standard (12 year old worn out maybe) chassis struggle a little... It just seemed like you couldn't put a foot wrong as standard... A good dose of polybushing sorted that out though :D

This is true, with standard power it is perfect. Having said that, with the 15% pulley it is still pretty much spot on. You obviously can't go stamping on the throttle out of wet roundabouts etc but it's completely composed still in fast road driving and I think the best trade off between power, reliability and composure. My R53 has the optional LSD so this probably makes a small positive difference in coping with the extra power.

My IAT temperatures were nice and low the other day when blasting it - the Airtec does a fine job even with the extra heat

Downside is you become used to the extra power and want more... Thant's how I ended up with a cam/injectors and remap lol :D

Yeah I can see this happening, but all in good time.

Next big upgrade for me will be the crank pulley, not that mine is shot but it definitly isn't doing too well, will likely have to cut it off though :( Also, when Lohen get those belt idle pulleys back in stock I'll nab one of those along with a new tensioner damper.

What's wrong with your pulleys?
 
XP8 pads are a bit much for me... Been hooning around and under braking it has actually made me feel dizzy. Not sure I've ever felt deceleration like it. Will be interesting if it dries up a bit :D

I am on the look out for a lesser pad though... The novelty of the squeal is wearing off...

In other news I replaced the Powerflex engine mounts with OE ones... Got rid of some of the cabin vibrations, although I gotta say I did prefer the feel of the gear changes with the polybushes in.

Yeah, this is why I didn't go for anything as hardcore as the XP8's. I used to have Pagid RS-29s on my old 330ci and although they were rip your face off good, with no absolutely no fade even on standard discs/calipers, when driving off track they made the most embarrassing squealing I've ever had. Pulling up to traffic lights was like a train pulling into the station.

I'm currently using Mintex M1144's and they are pretty much bedded in now. The inconsistent pedal feel has gone now I've put some miles on them, and the pedal is firm and allows a smooth operation. They generate much less heat than the old pads (which I think were crap budget pads) and they even generate less heat at the front, than the rear crap pads do.

The acid test will be once she sees the track although I think if I have any problem from the brakes, it'll be caused by the rears. I was going to get some Redstuff pads, but didn't really feel like shelling out another £60 on the Mini this month. I'll see how they go.
 
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The brakes are the one thing I would change on my F56 MCSD. I know the car is heavier with the diesel engine (15k+ miles a year means I have to have a diesel), but they just don't inspire confidence coming into tight bends.
 
I replaced my spark plugs with BKR7EIX ones (same heat rating as the ones in the JCW) which I bought from Orranje and used a £5 off voucher meaning they were £23 for all four. I think it's safe to say my old ones were past their best - they look like they are the factory ones!

GG0tuOWh.jpg

It's nice easy job to do - all it takes a 10mm spark plug socket and a decent length extender bar and 30mins of your time. I also had to remove the intercooler so that took another few more minutes. NGK state that the new ones should be screwed in hand tight and then turned by another 1/2 a turn, but I torqued mine up to what Mini recommend (27Nm).
 
Wow there's no electrode?!
That's a good price, was that recent?
I've been Using Denso IK22 (maybe 20?...) for 3 years plus now and they seem to work well... Although the BKR7EIX does seem highly regarded...
 
I replaced my spark plugs with BKR7EIX ones (same heat rating as the ones in the JCW) which I bought from Orranje and used a £5 off voucher meaning they were £23 for all four. I think it's safe to say my old ones were past their best - they look like they are the factory ones!

GG0tuOWh.jpg

It's nice easy job to do - all it takes a 10mm spark plug socket and a decent length extender bar and 30mins of your time. I also had to remove the intercooler so that took another few more minutes. NGK state that the new ones should be screwed in hand tight and then turned by another 1/2 a turn, but I torqued mine up to what Mini recommend (27Nm).

Use the ILKR8E6 Evo 10 ones in mine
 
Wow there's no electrode?!
That's a good price, was that recent?
I've been Using Denso IK22 (maybe 20?...) for 3 years plus now and they seem to work well... Although the BKR7EIX does seem highly regarded...

There is, but i think it's got a shroud around it? The Iridium ones have a protruding electrode.

Anyway, next job on the cards is to replace the radiator fan resistor. It costs around £13 from eBay and takes a couple of hours to do as you need to take the front of the car off. I was going to combine it with another couple of jobs (sump gasket, oil filter housing gasket and dipstick o-ring.)

Also in the next couple of days I'm going to replace the fluid filled engine mount as it has leaked it's fluid at some point. A new Lemforder 29901 mount is £44 from Carparts4less so that'll be replacing it.

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Yours is electric blue too? nice :D
Seems a reasonable price that tbh, mine is the earlier rubber one so has no oil to leak but is still looking a little worse for wear.

That resister is a pain aint it, bet you wish you had done that when you did the crank sensor O ring?

I fitted new discs and pads onto the rear of mine today and had the rear 2 hoses to replace with braided... First set they sent came with threaded fittings, second set had a 10mm banjo... Turns out my car has 12mm banjos... What a PITA that has been, the supplier has been really good about it though to be fair.
 
Yours is electric blue too? nice :D

Yus :D Electric blue massif.

Seems a reasonable price that tbh, mine is the earlier rubber one so has no oil to leak but is still looking a little worse for wear.

Yeah, could have been worse. When I had the bracket off the other week, I did try and move the bolt in the bush and it moved around very easily. I wasn't sure how much it was meant to move though, so I did some research. Apparently the black crud below it isn't just general engine bay crud, its from where the mount has leaked it's oil out, so it's quite nice to *know* that the mount has failed rather than guessing and having to spend money on the back of a guess.

That resister is a pain aint it, bet you wish you had done that when you did the crank sensor O ring?

Yeah. I was in two minds over whether to just get a new fan, but at £70 for a new fan, it seemed wasteful not to do the £13 fix. I'm building up a stock of parts to change when I take the front end off again, so yes - I wish I had changed them all first time around :p TBH, it's not a difficult job to get the front end off, just requires time and effort.

I fitted new discs and pads onto the rear of mine today and had the rear 2 hoses to replace with braided... First set they sent came with threaded fittings, second set had a 10mm banjo... Turns out my car has 12mm banjos... What a PITA that has been, the supplier has been really good about it though to be fair.

What a PITA. Who was supplying them? Did you have any issues getting the hoses off and the disc retaining Torx screw?
 
Orranje/Hel.
Front hoses, I knackered one of the m10 brake fittings so ended up replacing the front O/S with a cunifer line. on the rear, one side came off ok, haven't tried the other side though as I realised I have the wrong hoses :(
Yup both torx screws came out! :o
 
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