Why does my new 6.5" sub have two sets of connectors instead of one?

You don't NEED to give the subs their full power. As long as you're careful with the gain on the amp, you shouldn't run into any issues.

Being careful is the key - especially with a pair of nice, new powerful subs in a car, they're going to get driven hard...! It's all too easy to blow up a speaker with an underpowered amp (I've done it!)

I'm no real expert in audio, but have a small gigging vocal PA rig, and the rule of thumb is to power your speakers with an amp somewhere from 100%-200% as powerful as the cabs.

If it was me, powering the sub in the OP, I'd want something giving 300-400W of power at 2 ohms - it'll drive the speaker properly, no danger of blowing it up.

That's probably going to cost though!
 
That's probably going to cost though!

Well, there is that ;)

Funny you should mention a nice new pair of subs being driven hard... Adam, take it easy for the first few hours. You don't want to fudge the voice coils by driving them hard when they're tight. New speakers usually need a lot of playing time to loosen them up.
 
Don't underspec an amp, you'll pay for it in the long run.

edit... £80 for two? They're £55 each aren't they? How'd you get them for that price?

Off ebay, can't remember the name but they were going for £40 each brand new boxed. It's a company too, not a private seller.

As a guide for myself really, how would you rate the JBL GTO amps, more specifically the 4 channel one (not to power my subs, but just so that I can gauge 'quality' vs my needs).

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/8038.html

Are they regarded as good amps?
 
Well, there is that ;)

Funny you should mention a nice new pair of subs being driven hard... Adam, take it easy for the first few hours. You don't want to fudge the voice coils by driving them hard when they're tight. New speakers usually need a lot of playing time to loosen them up.

The thing is, I don't want these for bone shattering bass - they're just there to fill in where my components can't reach. I'm not looking for uberbass i'm looking for decent quality music to listen to at normal volume.
 
Sure if you want to wring every list drop of power from that amplifier. if your a bass head go for it!

You're no more wringing "every last drop of power" from showing a 1 ohm load to an amp that's 1 ohm stable than you are running showing a 2 ohm load to a 2 ohm stable amp or a 4 ohm load to a 4 ohm stable amp. It's just doing what it was designed to do. :)
 
Fair enough, that's what I used to have to power my old components and 6x9's and was always happy with it. I was hoping you'd say it was **** so that I could convince myself that the pioneer one was a good choice!
 
About that, as I've seen it mentioned a few times... running one voicecoil on a dual VC sub... doesn't that only use half the potential of the sub therefore making it a bit pointless?

I've got a DVC sub in my car, but I've only ever ran it with both voice coils connected. I might try it with one coil and see what difference it makes.

The system will have a peakier resonance (for the techie types, Qts increases because Qes increases). If you connect up one voice coil and short the other, things change from the original (both coils driven) situation, the driven voice coil is pushing and pulling, as normal it's trying to keep things at rest - it's trying to resist ANY motion! The net result is the overall peakiness of the resonance is the same as it was when both coils were driven, even though we are only using half the motor (driving one coil). The other coil helps "tame" the driven coil, so that the system basically behaves the same as before.

You might think that power handling is cut in half, but you'd be wrong. Power handling isn't compromised by a factor of 2; it's usually decreased 10-25%. The reason is that rarely are you current-limited by the gauge of the wire, and voice coils are wound concentrically so you still have the entire thermal mass working for you. Just that now all the power is dissipated in a single voice coil (typically two of four layers) so you may end up with an inert, non-conducting thermal mass insulating one side of the voice coil. This does not halve power handling, but can reduce it somewhat.

If you are using an AB Class amplifier (ie a standard 2 channel that is 2 ohm stable at bridged) then running the woofer as a 4 ohm woofer is the best way in my opinion. Remember that when you wire the woofer to the impedance you desire then you must take into account that a 2 channel amp will half that ohm load on the bridged setting.

If you are using a D Class Mono block amp then whatever impedance you put in will be what the amp actually sees. These amplifiers do not half the impedance like AB class amps. In this case then you could wire the woofer in a 2 ohm load (given that the amp is 2 ohm stable) and that will maximize the woofer and the amp.

If you are running 2 woofers on a 2 channel then i would wire both woofers in 8 ohms EACH and then mono into the amplifier for the most bass. If you are looking to have more quality sound then run them in 4 ohms EACH and go stereo (left + and - going straight to left woofer and right + and - going straight to the right woofer) into the amplifier.
 
Right, might have found a possible winner...

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-gto7001-p-6737.html

AMP Spec said:
* 425W RMS x 1 Channels at 4 Ohms
* 700W RMS x 1 Channels at 2 Ohms
* 1400W Max Power
* Signal-to-Noise (dBA): 107dBA (reference rated power into 4 ohms)
* THD: 0.02% (rated power at 4 ohms)
* Frequency Response: 20Hz - 330Hz (-3dB)
* Dimensions (L x W x H): 15" x 10-3/8" x 2-1/8"

Looks like a good mix between money and performance and I've had this range of amps before and was always impressed.

Any nay-sayers before I hit buy?
 
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