Associate
- Joined
- 28 Apr 2003
- Posts
- 265
- Location
- Welsh Riviera - Swansea
Hi all ,
I have been playing Forza 3, but not with my wheel! The feedback in the wheel is no more and only works without any feedback, so not the best experience. I have googled a possible answer but I am stuck.
The explanation below is pretty good but i just cant find the fuse !
I have bought the new ones from the bay and i am looking at a wheel in a few bits. Does anyone have any knowledge of this type of repair ?
Many thanks
KJ
Wireless Wheel Repair!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Moderator, Please read this full post before making any decisions on deleting. This is meant to provide information to allow gamers to save money on a repair that can be done for less than a third of the cost of a new wheel.
THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND APPLIES TO ONLYOUT OF WARRANTYDEVICES. YOU SHOULD ONLY PERFORM THIS REPAIR IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH A SOLDERING IRON ON INTEGRATED CIRCUITS. THIS REPAIR ONLY APPLIES TO THE FOLLOWING SCENARIO.
Scenario: My Force Feedback Wheel was no longer accepting power from the AC power input, not sure how or why this happened but it obviously needed to be repaired. However it still functioned with batteries for use as a wireless wheel WITHOUT force feedback... if you took the batteries out and plugged in the AC power it wouldn't even turn on.
Microsoft: "Sorry Sire, your Wireless Wheel is out of the "90 Day" warranty and you will need to buy a replacement wheel."
Me: "90 Day warranty on a $150.00 (at the time) device? Wow, that's not very generous! Do you offer any kind of repair or refurbished replacement service if I pay?"
Microsoft: "Sorry Sir, it is Microsoft's policy not to replace or repair any out of Warranty peripherals for the XBOX 360. You will have to buy a new wheel."
Me: "Okay, thank you for your time."
Solution: Pay $16.00 for a TORX Tamper Proof PocketStar, $7.99 for a 15W Soldering Iron, $3.99 for a roll of thin Silver Solder, $2.49 for a 5x20MM Inline Fuse Holder, $4.99 for a small set of Wire Cutters and $2.99 for a pack of 3Amp 125Volt 5x20MM fuses. (Everything except the TORX tool is available at your local Radio Shack)
After spending about $40.00 in tools and parts and about 60 Minutes of my personal time, I was able to open the wheel by removing 8 T10 Tamper Proof TORX Screws and under the Gray Base 8 standard T10 TORX screws. Then you only have to remove 2 standard T10 TORX screws on the AC circuit board and unplug the connectors that run to the other circuit board in the wheel so you can work on the board with ease.
Use the wire cutters to clip off the old fried fuse (the white chip that says 3A 125V, IE 495) and expose the contacts. Make sure not to damage the small Capasitor or Diodes next to the fuse! Blow the chip clean with canned air, and solder the two wires for the Fuse container to the exposed contacts, pop in your replacement 3A 125V fuse.
Re-Attach the circuit board and tuck the fuse away in the vast amount of available space inside the wheel and close that bad boy up. NOTE: You may want to test the power before putting all of the screws back in place!
Result: After using the wheel for three hours I have considered the repair a success and it cost me $90.00 less than buying a new wheel at today's cost.
Possible Result: You could be out $40.00 and still need to buy a new Wheel if things go wrong.
I have been playing Forza 3, but not with my wheel! The feedback in the wheel is no more and only works without any feedback, so not the best experience. I have googled a possible answer but I am stuck.
The explanation below is pretty good but i just cant find the fuse !
I have bought the new ones from the bay and i am looking at a wheel in a few bits. Does anyone have any knowledge of this type of repair ?
Many thanks
KJ
Wireless Wheel Repair!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Moderator, Please read this full post before making any decisions on deleting. This is meant to provide information to allow gamers to save money on a repair that can be done for less than a third of the cost of a new wheel.
THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND APPLIES TO ONLYOUT OF WARRANTYDEVICES. YOU SHOULD ONLY PERFORM THIS REPAIR IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH A SOLDERING IRON ON INTEGRATED CIRCUITS. THIS REPAIR ONLY APPLIES TO THE FOLLOWING SCENARIO.
Scenario: My Force Feedback Wheel was no longer accepting power from the AC power input, not sure how or why this happened but it obviously needed to be repaired. However it still functioned with batteries for use as a wireless wheel WITHOUT force feedback... if you took the batteries out and plugged in the AC power it wouldn't even turn on.
Microsoft: "Sorry Sire, your Wireless Wheel is out of the "90 Day" warranty and you will need to buy a replacement wheel."
Me: "90 Day warranty on a $150.00 (at the time) device? Wow, that's not very generous! Do you offer any kind of repair or refurbished replacement service if I pay?"
Microsoft: "Sorry Sir, it is Microsoft's policy not to replace or repair any out of Warranty peripherals for the XBOX 360. You will have to buy a new wheel."
Me: "Okay, thank you for your time."
Solution: Pay $16.00 for a TORX Tamper Proof PocketStar, $7.99 for a 15W Soldering Iron, $3.99 for a roll of thin Silver Solder, $2.49 for a 5x20MM Inline Fuse Holder, $4.99 for a small set of Wire Cutters and $2.99 for a pack of 3Amp 125Volt 5x20MM fuses. (Everything except the TORX tool is available at your local Radio Shack)
After spending about $40.00 in tools and parts and about 60 Minutes of my personal time, I was able to open the wheel by removing 8 T10 Tamper Proof TORX Screws and under the Gray Base 8 standard T10 TORX screws. Then you only have to remove 2 standard T10 TORX screws on the AC circuit board and unplug the connectors that run to the other circuit board in the wheel so you can work on the board with ease.
Use the wire cutters to clip off the old fried fuse (the white chip that says 3A 125V, IE 495) and expose the contacts. Make sure not to damage the small Capasitor or Diodes next to the fuse! Blow the chip clean with canned air, and solder the two wires for the Fuse container to the exposed contacts, pop in your replacement 3A 125V fuse.
Re-Attach the circuit board and tuck the fuse away in the vast amount of available space inside the wheel and close that bad boy up. NOTE: You may want to test the power before putting all of the screws back in place!
Result: After using the wheel for three hours I have considered the repair a success and it cost me $90.00 less than buying a new wheel at today's cost.
Possible Result: You could be out $40.00 and still need to buy a new Wheel if things go wrong.
