Writeoff valuation haggling without like-for-like replacements?

Man of Honour
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Hypothetically speaking, if you have a car model that isn't super common, how do you approach haggling the writeoff value with the insurer?
By this I mean, if it's a Corsa or something it is easy, you look online and find comparable models and can justify the amount you are asking for because that's what it costs to buy a like-for-like replacement.
But what if say on Autotrader there aren't any good matches for your car specification and age (like say you search for the Make, Model, Trim, Engine and MY and look for something that isn't miles off on mileage)?

If I take our car, the cheapest for that trim level, age and engine on Autotrader (national) is an 18 plate compared to our 66 plate and also has a panoramic roof, and is (understandably) priced at more than our car is worth. So the insurer can presumably say "jog on pal, we ain't paying for a car 18 months newer than yours with additional spec" and it would be kind of hard to justify beyond saying "well that's the cheapest available, the only 2 cheaper cars are 15 plates which is 18 months in the other direction". There's a couple of 66 plates but they are lower mileage than ours and more expensive than the 18 plate anyway. I wouldn't want to downgrade the spec and the higher trim is a lot more expensive.

I guess this scenario must come up a fair bit where you can't find like-for-like replacements so how is it approached, do you sort of look for a middle ground and say OK this car is older / higher mileage than ours, this car is newer / lower mileage than ours, we'll kind of meet in the middle? Can you cite the dealer price from CAP (which might potentially be 'too low' anyway)?

If it matters is reality we wouldn't actually buy the same car again but I'd want to be getting an appropriate amount of money that would in theory allow us to.
 
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Doesn't Autotrader have a professional subscription where insurers can see historic sales data (well what they were asking anyway, not what they got) or biblical Glass's guide - need to find a subscriber.

suppose you can just check out WBAC & Co and add a buy/sell spread/margin you determine by checking out other cars.
 
I've no idea but this reads very much like someone pondering disposing of their car :cry:
Heh that did occur to me when writing it, it's just something that came to mind reading some other thread. Insurance fraud definitely isn't a road I want to go down as I spent two-thirds of my career in Insurance (ironically including a counterfraud project for Motor claims) and I could end up back there one day.

Doesn't Autotrader have a professional subscription where insurers can see historic sales data (well what they were asking anyway, not what they got) or biblical Glass's guide - need to find a subscriber.

suppose you can just check out WBAC & Co and add a buy/sell spread/margin you determine by checking out other cars.
I can get some kind of idea of value by using CAP valuation and just general piecing together of info but this is more about how you present that case to the insurer in a coherent way they can verify themselves. Links to autotrader would be super simple, transparent and understandable compared to like screenshots of valuations I got from places that they can't easily replicate on their end.
 
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i assumed that the insurance looked at trade valuations (used to black book cap etc when i was doing it) and made allowances for market forces.
presumably some insurers have bettament fees to cover this ie pay extra and we will supply that car.

i must admit that having just bought a c max i was annoyed that when i did a quick valuation on we buy anycar it seems 2k cheaper than we payed but i knew i couldnt get my spec for the price i was offered, so just sucked it up.

all you can do is haggle , whatever happens its your property till you accept the offer, i believe the term is insurance is to put you in the same position you were in prior to the accident not better or worse.

sorry slow at typing
 
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WBAC is obviously going to be cheaper because that is what they will pay you for it, not what it would cost at a dealer. Typically dealer prices will be at least £1500 more expensive that what a seller would receive because they have to cover their overheads, and make a small profit on the sale. Paying £2k above WBAC isn't getting shafted that badly, certainly within tolerance of a normal price I'd say.

edit: Unless you bought privately, then £2k is maybe a bit on the high side.
 
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It'd be tricky but I guess you'd have to ballpark a figure between what models are available. i.e. if a 18 plate was 10k, and the 15 plate was 5k, then a safe assumption would be 66 plate being around 7.5k. Then do a similar comparison based on mileage, spec, condition, and hope you come to a number you'd feel happy with.
 
Most insurers are FCA regulated these days right?

Ask for whatever you believe is correct, if they don't give you that complain.

If they don't resolve your complaint in a satisfactory way then raise it to the financial ombudsman.
 
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