hi i am new to this,i bought a yamaha yst-sw015 off ebay.i pluged it into my teac ag-d200 .i thought wow this sounds great,turned it off and went out.came back turned it on but no sound from the sub.its got the green power light and thats it,ive taken the back off and checked both fuses .ive pluged my old sub into the teac and it works so cant be any setting.can anyone help please
yamaha yst-sw015
- Thread starter carrots
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hi i just unpluged the old sub red and white wires and put the plugs into the new sub.turned it on a thought that sounds good.ive tried turning the standby off and tried leaving it untill it goes into standby.the sub detects the teac being turned on as the green light comes on sub but no sound.
What red & white wires? The TEAC has only one output for the sub. It's marked "Pre-Out Subwoofer" and is coloured with a purple centre. You can't miss it. If your connection on the back of the TEAC is to anything else then you got that bit wrong. Go try again.
The connection on the back of the Yam sub goes to "L/Mono". That's it.
The connection on the back of the Yam sub goes to "L/Mono". That's it.
No, that shouldn't have killed it. All you've really done is divide the signal from the sub out, then recombine it again at the sub end minus a little signal loss and plus some noise. It was a totally pointless exercise unless the AV Receiver has a stereo sub output. Even then the benefits are debatable with a single sub.
What I'd suggest is that you go through your set-up procedure. For the sake of completeness try a different connection cable; just a simple single-ended one. Use the test tones to check if you get any signal out to the sub. If you do, then there's some setting on the amp or sub that's stopping the signal; or the sub's input is really dead. If there's no signal then again check the sub settings. Make sure to switch off auto-standby on the sub for these tests.
What I'd suggest is that you go through your set-up procedure. For the sake of completeness try a different connection cable; just a simple single-ended one. Use the test tones to check if you get any signal out to the sub. If you do, then there's some setting on the amp or sub that's stopping the signal; or the sub's input is really dead. If there's no signal then again check the sub settings. Make sure to switch off auto-standby on the sub for these tests.
Well, the sub seems to light up and seems to recognise a signal. So I think you can rule out the power supply and input stage. That leaves either the output stage (transistor and capacitor asthe main suspects) or the driver itself being borked.
A quick test on the driver is to disconnect the cables to the terminals, then rig up a AA battery with a couple of fly leads. All you need do is touch the leads momentarily on the speaker terminals. You should hear a clicky-rustly sound as the driver moves. If it doesn't move then it probably indicates that there's a problem with the voice coil. Either it has distorted due to excess heat and jammed in the gap, or it has shorted. But I'd expect a short to happen during a peak in the music rather than after the sub is switched off.
The other area is the amp electrics. Faulty capacitors show up as bulging either at the top or sometimes at the base. You can Google for what to look for. This has been quite a big problem in the electronics industry so there's a lot of sites with good images of the issue. A quick test for an intermittent capacitor is to put some heat on it. A hair drier will do, or a hot air gun with caution. When warm they can be coaxed back in to life briefly. This is a test you can do with the capacitor on the board, so it's useful for quick fault-finding. The next stage is to remove the cap (be careful of the terminals, they can give you a belt) and test with a multi-meter that includes the F farad scale.
Transistors respond to cold. So if there's no obvious sign such as it being blown to bits or a dirty great scorch mark then a can of freeze spray can give individual components an icy blast.
A quick test on the driver is to disconnect the cables to the terminals, then rig up a AA battery with a couple of fly leads. All you need do is touch the leads momentarily on the speaker terminals. You should hear a clicky-rustly sound as the driver moves. If it doesn't move then it probably indicates that there's a problem with the voice coil. Either it has distorted due to excess heat and jammed in the gap, or it has shorted. But I'd expect a short to happen during a peak in the music rather than after the sub is switched off.
The other area is the amp electrics. Faulty capacitors show up as bulging either at the top or sometimes at the base. You can Google for what to look for. This has been quite a big problem in the electronics industry so there's a lot of sites with good images of the issue. A quick test for an intermittent capacitor is to put some heat on it. A hair drier will do, or a hot air gun with caution. When warm they can be coaxed back in to life briefly. This is a test you can do with the capacitor on the board, so it's useful for quick fault-finding. The next stage is to remove the cap (be careful of the terminals, they can give you a belt) and test with a multi-meter that includes the F farad scale.
Transistors respond to cold. So if there's no obvious sign such as it being blown to bits or a dirty great scorch mark then a can of freeze spray can give individual components an icy blast.