Yet another project....The uncrashed spitfire

I like the orange, its growing on me, its gonna look so damn wild in the green car.

quite happy with the cam movement now, its bedded in nice after rotating numerous times, the cam lube is making it stickier which is why it was sticking.
Crank should spin freely with minimal effort otherwise i have a problem or so i was told.
 
Cupped it is then.

Turned the block upside down today and gave the outside another two coates of paint, and gave the inside a couple of coats, really dont want to paint anymore, the paint is far too runny and causing so many runs which are a pain to clear up.

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Also came back down to the shed to find the worst had happened, runs into the bores arrggggg, hopefully will clean out ok with some thinners tomorrow.

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That paint looks really odd! Are you sure you mixed the paint properly? It looks a bit translucent for my liking. I hope you can get that paint out of the boors. That would be a bit of a disaster otherwise!
 
Well the engine is fitted with its nice shiny new core plugs, wee bit of touch up needed to the paintwork though as i got a bit heavy handed with the hammer.

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So next up i figure its time to test fit the crank, so its in with bearings but not tightened down yet as i need to fit thrust washers.

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Need to read up the manual on fitting the crank first though. Not quite too sure how the thrusts goes in.
 
How dare you mention thrust washers! I'm still to scared to take my sump off :(

Also why have you painted the inside of the engine? Surely that's a bad idea? Although currently it does look rather good.

Is there a photo of that crank before it was fettled? It looks rather good no.
 
The painting inside the block has proved contraversial in most forums as people dont seem to understand the reasoning behind it is not to make it look good. Far from it, it is purely practical.

Actually the old triumph race engines were painted inside, dave vizard the engine guru recomends painting the inside of all engines with engine enamel, i seem to remember aswell that kas kastner also recomends it. The oil doesnt go that dirty cause of the wear and tear, it goes dirty mainly cause of the crap which is in the porus metal of the block, this crap doesnt do the oil any good and potentially damages the engine itself due to making the oil abbrasive.
Next the flow to the sump is drastically improved speeding up oil flow and lubrication of the engine and also keeps the oil temperature down.
All these factors enable the engine to run smoother and also in most cases increases performance.

hence the reasons for painting it.
 
Everybody seems to think that, but why would it need to be? the only thing it needs to be is temp resistant to 100degrees, and oil resistant, appart from that nothing should ever be in contact with it in the engine otherwise you have other problems.

mind you it does take 5 days to dry fully.
 
You forgot, also stops all the crap in the oil sticking to the inside of the block and you don't get that tar buildup because it all goes straight in the filter. Don't know how relevant that is any more what with modern oil technology and anti sludge additives, it's probably only the reasons you mentioned now :D
 
This project looks fun, some nice bits going into that engine. personally I wouldn't paint it inside, but I will be interested to see how you get on with that.
 
The engine is gonna be in bits next year anyway so will find out if it does anything.

Lack of progress recently as im struggling to find better quality arp bolts which are the same size.
 
Awesome, Mattius - some mad skillz you've got there. Excellent car, too. I can see what you mean about the difference in paint tones externally, are you going to do the whole car eventually or are you leaving it like that? It's not really noticeable, as you say, but it'd be nice to see it all the same colour.

You're making me want to take my car apart, but I don't know anything about them so it's probably not a good idea!
 
Lashout: Mains and rods, i know the rods are the same as a yb cosworth, but im struggling to find reasonable prices for both, my flywheel bolts were 6 quid a set of arp dont understand how they can charge 40 quid for mains!!!

Sic: The car is going for a top coat respray a bit later on, the work i did im not happy with but by doing the base work i have saved myself a grand on the respray so it will only cost a grand to do the topcoat and 5 coates of laquer. Best way to learn is to take it to bits! buy a manual or two and get going. I have six big folders in front of me at the moment scouring for part numbers.
 
I've never used ARP bolts in any of my engines. Not worth it unless you're making serious amounts more power than the original engine or if you're racing it where the prolonged periods of high revs and abuse fatigue the bolts. To be honest on a street engine you'll probably never fatigue them unless they're a known issue on that engine.
 
The car is gonna be raced and trackdayed, so im taking all precautions with the bolts in it. Triumph originally used damn good bolts so if i cant get them im not too fussed just rather have arp.

Been measuring crank end float today,

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And the result, oucha! need some more shims me thinks

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manual states, between 4 and 6 thou, im aiming for 5. I have 26! lol
 
DOH!

Stupid me helps if you put both in doesnt it, bit of sanding down one of them to get a thousanths of an inch off using some wet and dry on a mirror.


Got it up to 4.5thou, which is pretty much spot on.

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Muchos respect to you for messing about with an engine.. Its certainly something that would hinder me :)
 
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