If it was me, I would do a 50% water change as a precaution. If you had a test kit, you could check the levels.
Otherwise, better to be safe than sorry.
Otherwise, better to be safe than sorry.
Your current Fish tank Setups!
- Thread starter Malt_Vinegar
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Also, try to make sure you have no dead spots, flow is very important in planted tanks in my (limited) experience
Stolen from ukaps forums:
Here :
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/fluffy-brown-hair-algae.380/
Advice there is that a 3 day blackout (my fave algea destroying method) and reducing light will go a long way to nailing it.
Here :
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/fluffy-brown-hair-algae.380/
Advice there is that a 3 day blackout (my fave algea destroying method) and reducing light will go a long way to nailing it.
Not an algea expert myself, but as above, testing is key.
That said, a blackout is an amazing tool for solving all sorts of issues.
As ci_newman said. It's probably an ammonia spike if you didn't leave the old filter in place when the new one was added. Those bacteria start things are snake oil if you ask me! I used to snip a part of running filter and place it between the new media in a new tank to prime it when I was running many tank! Usually meant the tank cycled quickly, if not straight away.
That said, a blackout is an amazing tool for solving all sorts of issues.
As ci_newman said. It's probably an ammonia spike if you didn't leave the old filter in place when the new one was added. Those bacteria start things are snake oil if you ask me! I used to snip a part of running filter and place it between the new media in a new tank to prime it when I was running many tank! Usually meant the tank cycled quickly, if not straight away.
Transporting fish is fine.
I used a poly box, with a 2 bin liners in it. Filled it with tank water, then put in an airstone, and stored the filter media in the same water. Then you just plug it in, in the car using a 12v to 230v adaptor and the poly holds the heat, and the airstone keeps things ticking over till you can set up again.
I would be confident of doing a 300+ mile trip like that with tropicals. Especially something like a betta, which is a labyrinth fish, so can surface breath anyway.
I left them like that in the new place for a few hours too, just added a heater and small corner filter circulate better. Then set the tank back up at my leisure.
I used a poly box, with a 2 bin liners in it. Filled it with tank water, then put in an airstone, and stored the filter media in the same water. Then you just plug it in, in the car using a 12v to 230v adaptor and the poly holds the heat, and the airstone keeps things ticking over till you can set up again.
I would be confident of doing a 300+ mile trip like that with tropicals. Especially something like a betta, which is a labyrinth fish, so can surface breath anyway.
I left them like that in the new place for a few hours too, just added a heater and small corner filter circulate better. Then set the tank back up at my leisure.
A day without light would be fine. One of the best ways to kill algae in a tank is a run a 7 day blackout. I have done this a couple of times over the years, and always found it very successful. The fish seem to show no issues other than looking a little washed out colour-wise for a few days afterwards.
As above.
Making sure you treat the water before adding it, is really important. Chemicals to lock in ammonia are not really the greatest idea, it's not a sustainable method. Water changes are better. It's best to get a proper chemistry going on so you don't need to rely on adding chemicals.
Goldfish types are very tough to keep well indoors.
Ideally you want that fish in a pond really. Then you can have a small tropical community tank with what you have (+a heater). Some people bring them up from tiny to a about the size you have now to move them to a pond more quickly. So it can be done.
There are also temperate tropical fish availabe which are capable of being unheated. These are also better suited to a tank that size.
You can do a "cycle" with fish in the tank, but doing it with such messy fish as a gold type will make it harder to manage for a new keeper.
Stick in a clean plastic plant pot with a clean rock on top to keep it in place. Will help the fish feel safer and give it somewhere to hide till you can get something more suited
Making sure you treat the water before adding it, is really important. Chemicals to lock in ammonia are not really the greatest idea, it's not a sustainable method. Water changes are better. It's best to get a proper chemistry going on so you don't need to rely on adding chemicals.
Goldfish types are very tough to keep well indoors.
Ideally you want that fish in a pond really. Then you can have a small tropical community tank with what you have (+a heater). Some people bring them up from tiny to a about the size you have now to move them to a pond more quickly. So it can be done.
There are also temperate tropical fish availabe which are capable of being unheated. These are also better suited to a tank that size.
You can do a "cycle" with fish in the tank, but doing it with such messy fish as a gold type will make it harder to manage for a new keeper.
Stick in a clean plastic plant pot with a clean rock on top to keep it in place. Will help the fish feel safer and give it somewhere to hide till you can get something more suited
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Try a small smear of silicone sealant around the edge of the suction cup, press hard. Make sure the glass is clean and dry before applying.
Should stop the air seeping back through the seal. Easily removed later with a razor if needed, and should last a long time.
Should stop the air seeping back through the seal. Easily removed later with a razor if needed, and should last a long time.
Anything aquarium safe will be ok.
I would put it on the inside of the cup on the edges.
They only fail when air gets by the barrier of the plastic edge. If you make it a better seal it will keep the suction for much longer, if not forever.
I decided today that I am closing down my big tank.
It will be the first time I have no tanks for probably 10 years or so.
Debating whether to sell up or retire it to the loft. Largely that depends if I can actually get it through the hatch!
I figure we need the space with the growing family and I would rather not run small tanks, they are just too much of a pain to keep stable on a low maintenance routine.
I will probably wait till I have the space for a proper fish room and build a big plywood tank and keep some real monsters. Till then, I am out!
I told the Mrs this evening, she was happy
It will be the first time I have no tanks for probably 10 years or so.
Debating whether to sell up or retire it to the loft. Largely that depends if I can actually get it through the hatch!
I figure we need the space with the growing family and I would rather not run small tanks, they are just too much of a pain to keep stable on a low maintenance routine.
I will probably wait till I have the space for a proper fish room and build a big plywood tank and keep some real monsters. Till then, I am out!
I told the Mrs this evening, she was happy
You don't need an air pump. Just get the biggest filter you can afford if you want to keep goldfish in a tank. They are messy and require a lot of filtration and space.
Ensure the outlet of the filter disrupts the surface of the water to help the water remain oxygenated.
Ideally you will want a external canister type. Something like a Fluval FX4.
180 litres is just about big enough for one (maybe two) "fancy" type goldfish.
Oh and don't feed then more than once maybe twice a week, otherwise you will have terrible water quality. I would also suggest at least a 20% water change a week at least until you have a testing kit and can be sure of the tanks levels are stable. Then you can adjust water changes/feeding/temperature to suit.
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No I feed mine twice a week as it's far better for them. Feeding every day is unrealistic, unatural and not healthy for them. Depending on species of course.
I don't use feeding to regulate water conditions, but when someone is starting out without a testing kit, it is very sensible to feed at the lower end to ensure they can keep control of the tank, at least initially.
I took my tank down last night.
It's outside under a tarp ready to be sold!
First time without a tank for as long as I can remember.
Decided that we need the space more now with the kids growing up.
Gave away the last of my stock to a chap at work who was very grateful to receive them.
Kind of sad, but I think I will leave the hobby till the kids leave home or maybe when I retire and build a huge plywood/plexi tank in a big fish room
It's outside under a tarp ready to be sold!
First time without a tank for as long as I can remember.
Decided that we need the space more now with the kids growing up.
Gave away the last of my stock to a chap at work who was very grateful to receive them.
Kind of sad, but I think I will leave the hobby till the kids leave home or maybe when I retire and build a huge plywood/plexi tank in a big fish room
There are few real benefits of the airstone in a correctly set up tank. I used them in transport tanks, or other temporary tanks without proper filtration for a period of time.
As above, get some surface agitation from the normal filter, and save your power and ears However, the cabinet should not vibrate. You can use various methods to isolate the pump from the stand to stop vibration. You can sit in on rubber, or even a folded towel. Some people even suspend them on elastic cord.
However, unless you really want that 70's nightclub look, I would just leave it out and try for something more natural.
As above, get some surface agitation from the normal filter, and save your power and ears
However, the cabinet should not vibrate. You can use various methods to isolate the pump from the stand to stop vibration. You can sit in on rubber, or even a folded towel. Some people even suspend them on elastic cord.However, unless you really want that 70's nightclub look, I would just leave it out and try for something more natural.
If you don't want to be doing regular large water changes (needed with a "fish in" cycle) then you could just drop a raw shrimp in as an ammonia source.
Also, you should really be testing the water with a decent test kit to get Nitrate, Nitrite, ammonia and PH as a minimum. During a cycle its a very good idea to track these as you can work out what us going on more easily and also know more quickly when you are actually cycled.
Not sure what difference the live plants will make to the initial cycle, it might speed things up a bit if the plants came from a cycled tank though.
Also, you should really be testing the water with a decent test kit to get Nitrate, Nitrite, ammonia and PH as a minimum. During a cycle its a very good idea to track these as you can work out what us going on more easily and also know more quickly when you are actually cycled.
Not sure what difference the live plants will make to the initial cycle, it might speed things up a bit if the plants came from a cycled tank though.
You could also look at the micro rasbora species if you want a larger school in a smaller tank.
*edit* best in a species only tank as anything too big will eat them! They are teeny. Sometimes can be kept with shrimp too.
*edit* best in a species only tank as anything too big will eat them! They are teeny. Sometimes can be kept with shrimp too.
Chilli Rasbora (Boraras brigittae) are the smallest rasbora I know, so do better in smaller tanks. They will not grow larger than 2cm. 18mm quotes is the max and I have never seen any bigger than that myself.
Not sure how easy they are to get hold of nowadays though?
Not sure how easy they are to get hold of nowadays though?
The tanks been running for about 8month so hopefully not new tank syndrome by now. I don't remember which fertiliser i went for, I got it from Maidenhead Aquatics in Norwich when I setup.
I've been doing a 40L water change weekly with occasional spouts of increasing that to twice weekly without much luck.
Thanks for the suggestions
Have you tried a 7 day blackout? I found doing a proper manual clean, then just totally blackout the tank for 7 days. It's short enough not to kill any established plants (they might look a bit stringy straight afterwards!) but you should have a nice clean tank afterwards! Just do a big water change afterwards to remove any dead stuff.
You need a full blackout, no lights, and completely cover the aquarium. Worked wonders for me on a problem tank I have years ago!
Looks good. But I would be worried about cleaning around the stones close to/touching the glass.
I find it makes it a real pain!
I find it makes it a real pain!
Assassin snails