Your driving...

housemaster said:
I still can't use my mobile while shaving and eating a butty with a bag of crisps between my legs, so I guess that needs some fine tuning. :p

Look under the steering cowl and you'll find a lever. Pull that and adjust the steering wheel down onto your knees. Hey presto - you've freed up both arms.

You can thank me later (I think they have wireless internet in most Hospital's now).

:D
 
toy_soldier said:
You do that while on normal roads?

Lots of people do, doesn't mean they're tanking it everywhere.

I can't in the Beemer - pedals are just wrong.
 
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Burned_Alive said:
Engine Braking is a lot harder on the clutch :confused:

It isn't once you've Heel & Toe'd and then engaged the clutch.

There's very little slip when you engage the clutch after a H&T movement.

And engine braking on it's own doesn't affect the clutch one bit, it's the rough engagement of the clutch with revs too low that skims the clutch.

That's why people H&T.
 
housemaster said:
A heel toe down change is most appropriate when you are making quicker progress as it allows you to match the engine revs to the gear your changing down to without unsettling the car. It is a technique that needs to be learned and I use it quite a lot if I am making quicker progress and all the time on a track as it puts less stress on the clutch and gearbox when moving quickly. It reduces 'bulking' in the down change and smoothes out the driving experience.

& Engine mount friendly too.
 
Burned_Alive said:
I said correct me, what was wrong with what i said?

H&T/DDC isnt really engine braking is it? Because you're using the brakes to slow down. :confused:

Sit tight, I'm trying to dig out an old explanation for you.
 
Burned_Alive said:
no engine braking takes place surely?

Yes it does, as soon as you lift the clutch. :)

Heel & Toe will help you down change gear smoothly, and will avoid frying your clutch and stressing out engine mounts etc.

Heel & Toe will help you down change gear smoothly, and will avoid frying your clutch and stressing out engine mounts etc.

Ok, heel and toe - as simple as I can explain it :-

Left foot - stays on clutch. End of story.

Right foot :-

Let's imagine you're in 4th gear, coming up to a bend, you need to change down a gear to 3rd.

Come off the gas pedal
Move right foot onto brake and start braking
Press clutch in
Move gear from 4th to 3rd

DONT BRING CLUTCH UP

Instead:-

Keeping your toe on the brake, swivel your right foot so you can tap the gas pedal with the right side of the lower part of your foot - you wont be hitting it with your full heel, just the right side of your heel, and flick the revs up.

Do this - hit the gas and flick the revs up to match the engine speed you are going to get when you bring the clutch up and engage 3rd

Once the revs are up, bring clutch up.

That's a smooth change down - you've been braking all the time, and you've change gear, but because you've flicked the revs up before bring the clutch up - you've got the engine speed and transmission speed the same so the engine has not been lunging and rocking around in the engine bay or the clutch worn unnecessarily.
 
eidolon said:
The standard of my normal driving is pretty good. I'm observant, aware, safe and capable of controlling my car in a most situations.

Where I'd like to improve however is in the twisties. I'm aware that with a powerful mid engined RWD car things can go a bit pear shaped so I'm always a little reluctant to push the Elise too hard in case I end up with a £20k paperweight. Once I get my seats back from Lotus I'm planning on a Walshy day or two and hopefully a couple of track days (if they'll let me with my exhaust). Once I've had a bit more experience of where the limits of my car are I fancy heading for Nurburgring to see if I can make it onto the OCUK table :)

Just get it on track. You'll learn more about what that car is capable of in 4 laps than in 6 months on the roads.

It certainly won't fail to impress.
 
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