So i friend of mine stupidly bit the bullet and got himself a used Zotac 5090 Arcticstorm for £1600 due to the pump in the aio having died. Zotac supposedly refused warranty but confirmed the card works fine. So for safety we did a very quick test and the aio seems fine but it's getting to 80c under load which is bad as i have not seen above 45c at 100% on my 5090 arcticstorm. Either way that's good for him as he is planning on going for a custom loop anyway and is taking my old kit off me. We don't want to remove the aio just yet until we check to see if anyone here knows what pcb it is so we can find the right block. Hope to find the answer here instead of contacting a few places/manufactures to find the right block. Anyone have any idea? Thanks in advance
Zotac 5090 Arcticstorm
- Thread starter Mr Mcgoo
- Start date
A real shame these AIO versions don't just use G1/4 ports and a removable pump to allow them to be plugged into a loop if wanted.
ChatGPT seems to think that all Zotac cards use the same PCB, which sounds reasonable. Best to do some digging, but if so, would have a good choice of blocks.
I've got the Heatkiller Ultra V on a TUF 5090 and it's phenomenal. Around 10c delta to the water at 550 watts from memory (currently upgrading cooling so haven't used it for a while).
ChatGPT seems to think that all Zotac cards use the same PCB, which sounds reasonable. Best to do some digging, but if so, would have a good choice of blocks.
I've got the Heatkiller Ultra V on a TUF 5090 and it's phenomenal. Around 10c delta to the water at 550 watts from memory (currently upgrading cooling so haven't used it for a while).
Soldato
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- 4 Feb 2011
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that doesn't help me find the correct pcb in the 5090 arcticstorm
Soldato
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void if removed sticker was damaged in which it was but was intact. looked as if someone put a screwdriver in there then suddenly decided not to unscrew it. we have tried to get it resolved but card was returned and they have yet to respond. has been 5 days since it has been returned
It's a second hand card, warranty does not carry over with almost any company, it's one of the biggest selling points of using the OCUK MM because people help with those things.
I've personally dealt with friends claims on Zotac cards at the 3-4 year mark and had no issue.
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Oh yeah good shout. Makes you wonder why the buyer didn’t claim in the first place.
I'd have been extremely wary of buying any 5090 in that price range used personally, let alone a hybrid AiO type with a bunch of added points of failure.
OP's friend lucked out that there don't seem to be any greater issues and it should be fine on a custom loop after replacing the existing cooling, which from what I gather seems to be the plan.
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zotac are not aware this is second hand and we do have the original purchase receipt for warranty purposes. the card is in mint condition bar the void sticker. we are still awaiting a reply. we will give it a week then i guess take it apart and look for ourselves unless someone else gets the info beforehand 
zotac are not aware this is second hand and we do have the original purchase receipt for warranty purposes. the card is in mint condition bar the void sticker. we are still awaiting a reply. we will give it a week then i guess take it apart and look for ourselves unless someone else gets the info beforehand
It reads to me like the prior owner might have taken it apart themselves, and then not put it back together properly. I'd take it apart and clean it up + repaste and see how I got on purely from curiosity, no harm in doing so at this point if you're going to strip it down for a waterblock eventually anyway.
The card in question last I checked was limited to 575W via the bios, maybe someone got a good price on it and wanted to push numbers without flashing?
Pure speculation, just seems odd someone would sell one that was actually functioning as cheap when it's arguably a higher end unit rather than setting up an RMA themselves. It's also worth noting that "void warranty" stickers on hardware hold little to no legal standing, if you pushed and pointed that out they might acquiesce.
i will agree it was a lame excuse to i f'ed up so will just pass it on to the next guy. i now believe after taking it apart it might have been fitted with a block or at least attempted as the whole issue for the high temps were extremely little thermal paste on the die. so much so that it didn't even cover the 2/3rd's of the die. but can clearly see the old paste around the edges. we have put it back together and the thing run beautifully under 50c while gaming at stock clocks. still not having much luck finding the pcb but still thinking it's the 5090 solid pcb. struggling to find the courage to get him the block and risk it not working/fitting and losing out on £200+. This is one reason i gave up on custom loops but happy to help those that want it done
Soldato
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Could take a look on the EKWB config/compatibility thing, or take a look at blocks for the solid (or other models) and see if they list compatibility? I know the listings for Bykski blocks tend to have pretty comprehensive listings, although I've never looked for a card that was 'watercooled' by default.still not having much luck finding the pcb but still thinking it's the 5090 solid pcb. struggling to find the courage to get him the block and risk it not working/fitting and losing out on £200+. This is one reason i gave up on custom loops but happy to help those that want it done
Edit: Had a quick look, appears the AMP extreme is same as the solid, but can't see the arctic mentioned on any... could have a look for teardown videos/articles, but then you'd just be eyeballing it really.
Glad it's working for him though
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i have had a look at teardown and not found anything concrete yet. it's just a waiting game but will find it out at some pointCould take a look on the EKWB config/compatibility thing, or take a look at blocks for the solid (or other models) and see if they list compatibility? I know the listings for Bykski blocks tend to have pretty comprehensive listings, although I've never looked for a card that was 'watercooled' by default.
Edit: Had a quick look, appears the AMP extreme is same as the solid, but can't see the arctic mentioned on any... could have a look for teardown videos/articles, but then you'd just be eyeballing it really.
Glad it's working for him though