Soldato
Sex. That finish is glorious
The Big Shell Project
- Thread starter Frank Jeagar
- Start date
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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- 390
GPU Block Installation
It is finally time for this to happen.
I am installing the Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal GPU block along with their Active XCS Backplate onto my GTX 1080.
I few thoughts on this block and backplate:
-Installation was as easy as any other block, decent enough instructions.
-Completely unscrewing the main block to install the backplate is a bit annoying, but not necessarily a problem.
-The backplate actively cools the VRMs by using a heatpipe to transfer the heat to the coolant, this is BRILLIANT, such a great design.
1080 Founder's Edition Disassembly
Many, many small screws hold the 2 backplate pieces onto the PCB.
Removing the backplate reveals the hex-head screws that allow the small backplate screws to screw into them. I really hate this idea, it just seems like an over-complication designed to put off people wanting to disassemble their cards.
Fortunately, for those who don't own any socket sets, Aquacomputer include an actual screwdriver with a socket end to remove these screws, and it is actually quite nice!
With those out along with the 4 screws around the die, the cooler popped of nicely
Here is the beast that will be cooling my graphics card!
I did a practice install with some cheaper thermal paste (not wasting Kryonaut on a practice fit
) and there is a problem. One of the screw threads on the block doesn't line up with the PCB hole very well. Just enough that the screw won't go in...
This caused a major problem as the VRMs and some of the memory modules do not have enough mounting pressure as you can see by the memory module thermal paste not spreading properly.
I think it was caused by installing the screws from one side to another (other than the four around the die) so in the actually install with the backplate I did the 4 around the die and then the 4 outer corners before doing the rest.
They all went in perfectly and I had a peek in between the block and hte PCB and can see that all the memory modules have a little thermal paste spilled out over their sides so they definitely have good mounting pressure!
I got the GPU installed by passing screws through the I/O plate and into the side of the case. I am lining up the GPU outlet with the CPU inlet by spacing the GPU form the side panel with a variety of different spacers
Here is another sneak peak at the product!
It is finally time for this to happen.
I am installing the Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal GPU block along with their Active XCS Backplate onto my GTX 1080.
I few thoughts on this block and backplate:
-Installation was as easy as any other block, decent enough instructions.
-Completely unscrewing the main block to install the backplate is a bit annoying, but not necessarily a problem.
-The backplate actively cools the VRMs by using a heatpipe to transfer the heat to the coolant, this is BRILLIANT, such a great design.
1080 Founder's Edition Disassembly
Many, many small screws hold the 2 backplate pieces onto the PCB.
Removing the backplate reveals the hex-head screws that allow the small backplate screws to screw into them. I really hate this idea, it just seems like an over-complication designed to put off people wanting to disassemble their cards.
Fortunately, for those who don't own any socket sets, Aquacomputer include an actual screwdriver with a socket end to remove these screws, and it is actually quite nice!
With those out along with the 4 screws around the die, the cooler popped of nicely
Here is the beast that will be cooling my graphics card!
I did a practice install with some cheaper thermal paste (not wasting Kryonaut on a practice fit
) and there is a problem. One of the screw threads on the block doesn't line up with the PCB hole very well. Just enough that the screw won't go in...
This caused a major problem as the VRMs and some of the memory modules do not have enough mounting pressure as you can see by the memory module thermal paste not spreading properly.
I think it was caused by installing the screws from one side to another (other than the four around the die) so in the actually install with the backplate I did the 4 around the die and then the 4 outer corners before doing the rest.
They all went in perfectly and I had a peek in between the block and hte PCB and can see that all the memory modules have a little thermal paste spilled out over their sides so they definitely have good mounting pressure!
I got the GPU installed by passing screws through the I/O plate and into the side of the case. I am lining up the GPU outlet with the CPU inlet by spacing the GPU form the side panel with a variety of different spacers
Here is another sneak peak at the product!
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
- Posts
- 390
I never thought I would be upset that I won't be showcasing the backplate. I think it looks so good it is a shame it won't get seen...
At least the block can match it's sexiness
At least the block can match it's sexiness
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
- Posts
- 390
A minor update: The new PCIe Riser arrived!
This one is from "Adapter World" and is sold as a Gen 3 16x shielded, flexible riser. I was expecting (from the picture online) it to be that awful medical grey they normally are, but I opened it to find the shielding on the outside which looks perfect for the build!
I had to test it, so I used flexible tubing to complete my loop and plugged my old SSD to get things booted.
The riser was plugged into the 3rd 16x slot on my motherboard and immediately booted up no problem. Downside is that apparently my 3rd slot is only 8x, but that shouldn't make a difference and it with be in the 4th slot when the build is complete which is 16x.
I had ran Firestrike Ultra when I was tested my component and wrote down the results to compare. With the riser in the 8x slot I got a slightly higher score than compared without the riser in a 16x slot, but this is probably because the GPU is watercooled and therefore able to stably boost higher.
What this does show is that my performance probably won't be effected by the riser and that it works fine, so I am very happy!
This one is from "Adapter World" and is sold as a Gen 3 16x shielded, flexible riser. I was expecting (from the picture online) it to be that awful medical grey they normally are, but I opened it to find the shielding on the outside which looks perfect for the build!
I had to test it, so I used flexible tubing to complete my loop and plugged my old SSD to get things booted.
The riser was plugged into the 3rd 16x slot on my motherboard and immediately booted up no problem. Downside is that apparently my 3rd slot is only 8x, but that shouldn't make a difference and it with be in the 4th slot when the build is complete which is 16x.
I had ran Firestrike Ultra when I was tested my component and wrote down the results to compare. With the riser in the 8x slot I got a slightly higher score than compared without the riser in a 16x slot, but this is probably because the GPU is watercooled and therefore able to stably boost higher.
What this does show is that my performance probably won't be effected by the riser and that it works fine, so I am very happy!
Soldato
that is a stunning GPU block. I have a thing for full PCB blocks because I think they're tidier, but I'm seeing more people move away from EK, and I had to in the end for Asteria II, and I'm starting to appreciate Aquacomputer and Watercool blocks more and more.
As soon as I have 2 hands again I'll be modding mine
As soon as I have 2 hands again I'll be modding mine
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
- Posts
- 390
The EK blocks and backplates do look really clean and it makes them work in a lot of builds, but I think they are getting boring. Just a way to black out your graphics card instead of making it a centre piece.
I was really stuck between the Aquacomputer and Watercool blocks, I think I'm becoming a bit of an Aquacomputer nut now though... It all started with that Aquaero 5
I was really stuck between the Aquacomputer and Watercool blocks, I think I'm becoming a bit of an Aquacomputer nut now though... It all started with that Aquaero 5
Associate
What pipe are you using for your watercooling loop?
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- 25 Aug 2013
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It is a combination. Most of it is Barrow 10/12mm chrome plated copper pipe and then there are two runs that use Alphacool 10/13mm chrome plated brass pipe.
The reason for that is because the Alphacool pipe can be bought with 90 degree bend in them. It's being used for the bend from the GPU to the CPU and from the CPU to the res.
The reason for that is because the Alphacool pipe can be bought with 90 degree bend in them. It's being used for the bend from the GPU to the CPU and from the CPU to the res.
Associate
Do you get any issues with the plating when forming your bends? I'm looking to use 12mm copper pipe with a polished finish but am also considering plating.
What pipebender are you using (make and model)?
Thanks
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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Horrific update: The log is probably going to get postponed for weeks...
The PE 240 is too thick to go in the top so I am having to order a slim radiator. I have settled on the Magicool G2 Slim 240mm, which is conveniently out of stock on OCUK and the website I have got it from is yet to dispatch it.
The reason for weeks though is because I go away on Tuesday for almost 3 weeks so I will probably have to pick up where I left off after I get back. There are some updates I have lined up to give, but I don't think there is much else I can do for now. Sorry.
The PE 240 is too thick to go in the top so I am having to order a slim radiator. I have settled on the Magicool G2 Slim 240mm, which is conveniently out of stock on OCUK and the website I have got it from is yet to dispatch it.
The reason for weeks though is because I go away on Tuesday for almost 3 weeks so I will probably have to pick up where I left off after I get back. There are some updates I have lined up to give, but I don't think there is much else I can do for now. Sorry.
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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I am not bending any pipes. The Alphacool pipes come with a bend already in them and the other bends are being done just with fittings.
If you bend plated pipe it WILL crack the plating badly so you would have to get plain copper pipe, do all the bends and leak test and everything and then get it electroplated somewhere if you wanted to do bends.
Associate
Thanks
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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- 390
Completion Update
The radiator will be arriving tomorrow, probably around the same time I leave for the airport
. so the completion of this project will have to be postponed to the week of the 26th of this month so I'd sub to get updated when I start again.
I have a couple of updates coming today though, including a pump leak fiasco, doing a pipe run from the VRM to the front radiator and a current look at the project so far.
The radiator will be arriving tomorrow, probably around the same time I leave for the airport
. so the completion of this project will have to be postponed to the week of the 26th of this month so I'd sub to get updated when I start again.I have a couple of updates coming today though, including a pump leak fiasco, doing a pipe run from the VRM to the front radiator and a current look at the project so far.
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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Pump Leak Fiasco!
I couldn't wait to test the mods I'd made hadn't bricked my hardware and that my new PCIe riser worked, so I finished the loop with clear tubing and filled her up for a quick blast on Firestrike!
Aaaaaannndd disaster... My Monsoon Modular Reservoir System pump top starting leaking badly. I didn't realise and did some BIOS messing around as well as run Firestrike before I noticed a little puddle underneath the foam beneath the pump.
It turns out that the casing was leaking out of the bottom. The chrome part screws into the black top forcing the pump unit into the O-ring on the inside of the top. The O-ring wasn't really doing anything causing water to leak around and down the sides of the pump unit; I was lucky it didn't short!
I tried a different O-ring (a spare one from an old Alphacool top) that was thicker, but that didn't stop it and I then resorted to a thick flat O-ring from a Moka (I think the English word is Percolator?) and that again didn't work. I thick there is some imperfection in the pump top that is allowing the water to pass over the O-ring.
I had two options: Get a replacement, probably could have returned it easily and it might not have taken long either, or seal it in some way with a mod. Correct, I chose the stupid option again and tried to seal it.
Turns out it was an easy fix! I just used a few turns of sealing tape around the shoulder of the pump unit to seal it against the chrome cover and then used 2 loops around the thread on the chrome cover to complete the seal around the water containing area
And no more leaks! So yeah, I feel like Monsoon let me down a bit, but I haven't heard of anyone else's leaking on the internet, so I think I just got some bad luck and I can't really hold it against Monsoon.
I couldn't wait to test the mods I'd made hadn't bricked my hardware and that my new PCIe riser worked, so I finished the loop with clear tubing and filled her up for a quick blast on Firestrike!
Aaaaaannndd disaster... My Monsoon Modular Reservoir System pump top starting leaking badly. I didn't realise and did some BIOS messing around as well as run Firestrike before I noticed a little puddle underneath the foam beneath the pump.
It turns out that the casing was leaking out of the bottom. The chrome part screws into the black top forcing the pump unit into the O-ring on the inside of the top. The O-ring wasn't really doing anything causing water to leak around and down the sides of the pump unit; I was lucky it didn't short!
I tried a different O-ring (a spare one from an old Alphacool top) that was thicker, but that didn't stop it and I then resorted to a thick flat O-ring from a Moka (I think the English word is Percolator?) and that again didn't work. I thick there is some imperfection in the pump top that is allowing the water to pass over the O-ring.
I had two options: Get a replacement, probably could have returned it easily and it might not have taken long either, or seal it in some way with a mod. Correct, I chose the stupid option again and tried to seal it.
Turns out it was an easy fix! I just used a few turns of sealing tape around the shoulder of the pump unit to seal it against the chrome cover and then used 2 loops around the thread on the chrome cover to complete the seal around the water containing area
And no more leaks! So yeah, I feel like Monsoon let me down a bit, but I haven't heard of anyone else's leaking on the internet, so I think I just got some bad luck and I can't really hold it against Monsoon.
Last edited:
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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- 390
Pipe Line form VRM to Front Rad
This is the final bit of pipe I can do before my new radiator arrived so here it goes.
A small bit of pipe will come out of the VRM and connect to a bitspower multilink 90 degree fitting to connect to a pipe coming from the front rad.
To measure the pipe I required to come out of the VRM I connected a pipe to the front rad with the bitspower mutlilink at the end of it and measured the distance to the VRM. I then measured the length of pipe that inserts into each fitting and added it onto the distance between the fittings to get the total length I needed.
I did a bit of mapping out of the case with a ruler to make sure I understand what the hell I was measuring
As you can see I mark off the length I need to cut with some electrical tape and I use a regular hacksaw to cut it.
Then comes what I call end-processing. In order to not damage fittings you need to de-burr the fresh cut end with a file or sand paper when using hard tubing, otherwise you will damage the O-ring in the fitting. However, when using metal pipe you also need to taper the outside of the tube so the pipe can slide over the O-ring nicely.
I broke out the dremel again to get this done
Here this insignificantly small, significant piece of pipe is installed with all the fittings haha
Next was pretty much the same process to run pipe from the multilink fitting to the front rad.
Not bad I'd say, looking forward to having this all in the case in a few weeks!
This is the final bit of pipe I can do before my new radiator arrived so here it goes.
A small bit of pipe will come out of the VRM and connect to a bitspower multilink 90 degree fitting to connect to a pipe coming from the front rad.
To measure the pipe I required to come out of the VRM I connected a pipe to the front rad with the bitspower mutlilink at the end of it and measured the distance to the VRM. I then measured the length of pipe that inserts into each fitting and added it onto the distance between the fittings to get the total length I needed.
I did a bit of mapping out of the case with a ruler to make sure I understand what the hell I was measuring
As you can see I mark off the length I need to cut with some electrical tape and I use a regular hacksaw to cut it.
Then comes what I call end-processing. In order to not damage fittings you need to de-burr the fresh cut end with a file or sand paper when using hard tubing, otherwise you will damage the O-ring in the fitting. However, when using metal pipe you also need to taper the outside of the tube so the pipe can slide over the O-ring nicely.
I broke out the dremel again to get this done
Here this insignificantly small, significant piece of pipe is installed with all the fittings haha
Next was pretty much the same process to run pipe from the multilink fitting to the front rad.
Not bad I'd say, looking forward to having this all in the case in a few weeks!
- Joined
- 25 Aug 2013
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I wanted to use the built in RGD LED controller in the case to power my LEDs (despite only wanting white LEDs ) so I ordered two of the 40cm magnetic RGB LED strips from Phanteks that OCUK have just got in stock
I was super-excited and they looked and felt great when I was installing them. The magnets are powerful enough, the strips are covered in a nice rubber sleeve that feels and looks premium and I couldn't wait to get them going.
However I was disappointed to find that the white LED mode is distinctly light blue, kind of aqua. I cycled through the colours back to white, which made them appear white, but it was still apparent that they were blue so I will not be using them.
I'm going to go back to using cheap LED strips from Amazon since I've actually had decent products the last couple of times.
For anyone thinking of getting the Phanteks RGB LEDs, they are really nice, are not very expensive at all and are so easy to use with the compatible cases that they may be worth it if you aren't too bothered about absolute colour accuracies or are putting together a coloured build since I imagine actual colours will blend nicely. They are quite bright and great to use with the magnets, but I shall not be using them unfortunately.
) so I ordered two of the 40cm magnetic RGB LED strips from Phanteks that OCUK have just got in stock I was super-excited and they looked and felt great when I was installing them. The magnets are powerful enough, the strips are covered in a nice rubber sleeve that feels and looks premium and I couldn't wait to get them going.
However I was disappointed to find that the white LED mode is distinctly light blue, kind of aqua. I cycled through the colours back to white, which made them appear white, but it was still apparent that they were blue so I will not be using them.
I'm going to go back to using cheap LED strips from Amazon since I've actually had decent products the last couple of times.
For anyone thinking of getting the Phanteks RGB LEDs, they are really nice, are not very expensive at all and are so easy to use with the compatible cases that they may be worth it if you aren't too bothered about absolute colour accuracies or are putting together a coloured build since I imagine actual colours will blend nicely. They are quite bright and great to use with the magnets, but I shall not be using them unfortunately.
Never used Phanteks LED's so not sure how much control you have over the colour, but Aqua Computer LED's when set to 'white' are also more of a light blue. All you need to do with those is gradually turn the blue channel down using their ColourWork until they're a true ice white.
Awesome build by the way, the pipework combined with those blocks is truly stunning, can't wait to see it finished with the temp tubing removed
Also hoping you haven't found a common fault with the Monsoon pump top as I was planning on using one!
Awesome build by the way, the pipework combined with those blocks is truly stunning, can't wait to see it finished with the temp tubing removed
Also hoping you haven't found a common fault with the Monsoon pump top as I was planning on using one!
Soldato
What LED strips have you been getting from Amazon, Frank? I have some acrylic edge lighting to make up and I'm in the market for some cool white strips.
Need to be slimline stuff though, no thicker than 5mm. Have a few things watched on fleabay, but options are always good.
Need to be slimline stuff though, no thicker than 5mm. Have a few things watched on fleabay, but options are always good.
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Never used Phanteks LED's so not sure how much control you have over the colour, but Aqua Computer LED's when set to 'white' are also more of a light blue. All you need to do with those is gradually turn the blue channel down using their ColourWork until they're a true ice white.
Awesome build by the way, the pipework combined with those blocks is truly stunning, can't wait to see it finished with the temp tubing removed
Also hoping you haven't found a common fault with the Monsoon pump top as I was planning on using one!
The case control is a single button that you press for colour and hold for mode. I have heard that they work with ASUS Aura RGB LED control which I have on my board so I will be looking into that when I get back.
Honestly I might just stick to the Amazon ones since I don't need the RGB and this is becoming a hassle
Thanks a lot for the support, I'm glad you are enjoying it!
I had a look online and couldn't find any other leak complaints, so hopefully they are normally fine! If it does leak, return it don't be an impatient fool like me haha
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They are from "TopLED". My last build was all white and they went so well. They had whiter LEDs than my Corsair AF140 white LED fans, have good LED density and are quite bright and use a pass-through molex for power.
They come in a variety of lengths with a variety of cable length. If you mean width by thickness then they are wider than 5mm, but they aren't taller if that helps.
Some people have complained in the comments, but the 40mm strips I got were fantastic.