Engine Bay Cleaning

Soldato
Joined
12 Mar 2006
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N.E England
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This is how my engine bay is currently looking, have you guys got any tips for cleaning this my mate just pointed out it was a bit of a state and I kind of agree, what type of products would you use and what techniques (toothbrush and elbow grease?). Obviously if I did clean it I would have to be extremely careful. Is there anywhere that would steam clean it for me?
 
On mine ive used a rag dampened with gunk, and also just covered the alternator, air filter and ECU with plastic bags and then jetwashed it while trying to avoid the electrics.
 
Avoid jet washing it! It's just not worth the agro getting water in a plug and the trying to track it down, as water in car electrics will make all sorts of interesting problems :D . I used a cloth with some megs quick detailer on mine, then t cut on the paintwork.
 
I sprayed the whole engine (cold) with Auto Glym Engine & Machine Cleaner, left it for 2-3mins and blasted it off with the Power Washer. WD40 the electrical plugs and connections before you do it and you will be fine.

/edit - And then i dressed the engine with Auto Glym Tyre Dressing.

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I used some all purpose cleaner from Aldi, i just use the hose to wet it all then spray the stuff and leave to soak and then hose off and wipe down.

I just leave the car running while i do it all.
 
Is it just the Diesel engines that have the plastic covers?. Ive just bought a 1.6 Zetec and mine looks exactly like Tom|Nbk's. Well saying that mines actually clean as a whistle :eek:, it was a 1 previous owned car so he must have kept it clean.
 
Is it just the Diesel engines that have the plastic covers?. Ive just bought a 1.6 Zetec and mine looks exactly like Tom|Nbk's. Well saying that mines actually clean as a whistle :eek:, it was a 1 previous owned car so he must have kept it clean.

I think most diesel cars have covers to hide the ugly-ness, Although I think mine is more tidier then the Focus at the top.
 
Is it just the Diesel engines that have the plastic covers?. Ive just bought a 1.6 Zetec and mine looks exactly like Tom|Nbk's. Well saying that mines actually clean as a whistle :eek:, it was a 1 previous owned car so he must have kept it clean.

Ahh you got a Focus then, pics, price, mileage, etc?
 
I've always used Gunk, let it sit for 5 minutes then gently rinse off with a pressure washer.
 
cilit bang 4tw!

spray ten tons of that in, whipe it all off witha wet cloth then use some back to black / tyre dresser to tart it up
 
Ahh you got a Focus then, pics, price, mileage, etc?

I was just going to say I'll update my thread but then i noticed your the OP :D. Thanks for all the help BTW I'm really glad i got a Focus instead of a Saxo now. Loads of leg room, head room etc, plus its really comfy.

I ended up getting a 1.6 Zetec 5 door in black with 74k on the clock but its got full service history at a ford garage and its a 1 owner car. The paintwork is in good condition, there are no scratches or anything but it could do with a good wash and wax. The rear number plate is a bit tatty so I'm going to order a new set and get some clear side and front repeaters as well :). Oh and it also came with a Blaupunkt head unit which is better than the tape player that came with the other one i looked at.

I'll get some pics tomorrow when its light and then take some when Ive washed it and fitted the new number plate etc.
 
I was just going to say I'll update my thread but then i noticed your the OP :D. Thanks for all the help BTW I'm really glad i got a Focus instead of a Saxo now. Loads of leg room, head room etc, plus its really comfy.

I ended up getting a 1.6 Zetec 5 door in black with 74k on the clock but its got full service history at a ford garage and its a 1 owner car. The paintwork is in good condition, there are no scratches or anything but it could do with a good wash and wax. The rear number plate is a bit tatty so I'm going to order a new set and get some clear side and front repeaters as well :). Oh and it also came with a Blaupunkt head unit which is better than the tape player that came with the other one i looked at.

I'll get some pics tomorrow when its light and then take some when Ive washed it and fitted the new number plate etc.

Sounds great. Come on MSN if you can :D
 
The AutoGlym engine cleaner is excellent. Use it with a brush and also a spray cannister of water.

Avoid using a power wash. Can potentially cause all sorts of problems with the electrics, even if you try and cover everything up.
 
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=43031 said:
Engine detailing simply implies cleaning the engine compartment and applying protective products to wiring, vinyl and rubber hoses and shields. It's not a difficult task, albeit the first time cleaning is a somewhat messy one. Then after the initial detailing it's just a matter of maintenance.

It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair. A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment?

To state that an engine compartment and components are weatherproof because they are in semi-open environment is a naive excuse for steam or high pressure washing (usually used to get the job done quickly as opposed to safely). The electrical and other engine components are made to be water repellent (very different from waterproof) providing the water is from a low pressure source; i.e. water migration from going through a puddle of water.

Engine Compartment Steam Cleaning:
High-pressure steam cleaning can force solutions into the engine harness sheath and associated cables, causing unusual problems that would not have occurred otherwise. Steam will subject the engine’s electrical components to a higher pressure and heat conditions than they were designed or specified for. Once steam is applied to a cold metal surface it condenses and becomes water, which may migrate to places that it cannot be easily removed from.

Modern vehicle engine harness multi-plugs and related sealing measures are not designed for the discharge velocity and force of typical commercial steam cleaning units. Further, cleaning solutions with the high-pressure discharge can leave conductive and often corrosive residues deep within the harness and cables.

Most engines are rarely so encrusted with automotive residues and dirt that normal, low-pressure degreasing methods fail to provide proper, efficient cleaning. High-pressure engine water / steam cleaning are unnecessary and should be restricted to extreme cleaning jobs, such as commercial trucks, off-road vehicles, etc.

I would recommend wearing a pair of latex cloves while working on the engine compartment. Road grime, tar and grease are very difficult to remove from underneath your fingernails. Outside of the garage your hands shouldn't look like you need lessons in personal grooming

Do not use a solvent based product for engine compartment detailing as solvents have a low flash point and could start a flash fire in the engine, solvents also deteriorates and expands rubber, which may have a detrimental effect on belts and hoses.

Recommended Cleaning Methodology:
•Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings
•Spray electrical connectors with a water deterrent (WD40) which repels moisture (avoid spraying on belts)
•Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray.
•This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks.
•Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface.
•Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or an all purpose cleaner (APC) without butyl cellosolve, P21s Total Auto Wash or Omni APC 10:1 concentrate – http//:www.autoint.com a light engine cleaning, or a solvent free, water based cleaner (Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards.
•Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry) or to remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth.
•For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a un-diluted d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash)
•When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose.
•To shine aluminium engine block / parts use # 0000 synthetic bronze wool - http://www.briwax-online.com/sswool2.html and a metal polish, English Custom Polishing - http://www.englishcustompolishing.co...lrestorer.html
•Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil.
•When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or 303 Aerospace Protectarant
•Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces.

Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment petroleum based products can have an adverse effect on oxygen sensors and other engine components. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings, do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe

Belts:
Using a belt dressing to stop it ‘squealing’ means you are putting off replacing the belt or its tensioner. It's squealing for a reason, if you use a belt dressing to ‘shine’ the material it may well cause belt slippage/wear. If any of this type of products gets into the air intake it will harm/render useless any sensors. Just stick to 303™ Aerospace Protectant and proper maintenance on your vehicle.

Replacement belts-Gatorback swallows up irritating chirps, squeaks and squeals due to its Helicog™ tooth design. Unlike the straight cogs on standard v-ribbed belts, the diagonal Helicog™) teeth on Gatorback actually cancel the noise of pulley contact from one offset cog to another. The result is a reduction in operating noise by as much as 15 decibels. http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/cars/gatopoly.html
 
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