Arosa/Lupo engine tickover query.

SB118

SB118

SB118

Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
7,700
Location
"Sunny" Plymouth
Wifes Arosa has started to play up since it found out it was up for sale.

Had to replace the coil pack today and it revs fine but it's quite lumpy at tickover, seems to be down around 550-650rpm according to the rev counter. Once you give it a bit of throttle (up to around 900rpm guestimate) everything smooths out.

So logically i should just turn up the tickover and make the problem go away....

Only i can't find the throttlestop. :(

I've taken the huge plastic cover off the top of the engine and i recognise which bit in the oil cap and that's about it. Sensors, wires, funny looking vent/valve things, pipes, plastic, but that's it. Nothing i actually recognise as an engine part.

Does this thing even have a throttlestop? Is it fly-by-wire? Or am i just being blind?

Cheers
 
Hi,

Not sure if I can help but I had a lot of problems with mine. The symptoms sound the same. It was a bit lumpy at tickover and the noise problem got worse. I had the shop look at it a number of times, and once they spent almost £1k (under warranty) fixing something to do with the valves, but the problem came back and the car had to go.

If it's the same problem as I had then sell it. It's not worth fixing it. The problem came back a number of times for me.
 
DannyW said:
post a high res pic?
Click to expand...

Not much use, but it gives you an idea how the "barren-ness" (new word?) of the eninge.

dsc00039pc4.jpg


izoneiz said:
Hi,

Not sure if I can help but I had a lot of problems with mine. The symptoms sound the same. It was a bit lumpy at tickover and the noise problem got worse. I had the shop look at it a number of times, and once they spent almost £1k (under warranty) fixing something to do with the valves, but the problem came back and the car had to go.

If it's the same problem as I had then sell it. It's not worth fixing it. The problem came back a number of times for me.
Click to expand...

It's pulling and driving fine now that i've changed the coil pack, but the tickover is lumpy and she keeps stalling it now. In fact she's just rang me and said that it still feels underpowered, it's not trying to shake itself to bits anymore (duff coilpack had the engine trying to chuck itself all over the engine bay,"slight" vibration problem) but she's only managed to get it up to 60 so far this evening.
 
Looks like it, when you turn on the car if an orange EPC light comes on the dash, kinda gives things away ;)

That and the black box + plug going to the TB :p
 
Even if it did have a throttle stop, how would that help? Surely adjusting it would mess up the idle in relation to the auto choke?
 
Electronic Petal Control, the light should come on then go off when you start the car, i would do a throttle body re-align.

Might be the same on yours :

Open the drivers door and bonnet, turn the key to possition two, leave it, you should hear the motor in the TB clicking away, wait till it stops moving, turn the key so the lights on the dash go off.

Then give it a go.
 
Jez said:
Even if it did have a throttle stop, how would that help? Surely adjusting it would mess up the idle in relation to the auto choke?
Click to expand...

Not got a clue how the autochoke works on this one. Usually adjusting the throttle wouldn't effect an autochoke as they run on a heated bimetal coil, i thought? (on engines i understand that is!)
 
This one is all controlled by the computer, what i meant was on a car with a throttle cable, adjusting the stop to increase the idle when warm, would cause the car to over-rev when idling on the choke.

I bodged an old 405 which kept stalling this way, but its hardly good practice when selling a car to sell it like that! :)
 
Firestar_3x said:
Electronic Petal Control, the light should come on then go off when you start the car, i would do a throttle body re-align.

Might be the same on yours :

Open the drivers door and bonnet, turn the key to possition two, leave it, you should hear the motor in the TB clicking away, wait till it stops moving, turn the key so the lights on the dash go off.

Then give it a go.
Click to expand...

So that's what the light means!

I'll give that a go when she get's home (midnight-ish)
 
Jez said:
This one is all controlled by the computer, what i meant was on a car with a throttle cable, adjusting the stop to increase the idle when warm, would cause the car to over-rev when idling on the choke.

I bodged an old 405 which kept stalling this way, but its hardly good practice when selling a car to sell it like that! :)
Click to expand...

Ahh, see what you mean about over reving now. Not good practice i know, but we can't afford to pour money into this car and take it to a dealship.
 
Jez said:
Out of interest, why are you selling it so soon? Not proving to be any good? :(
Click to expand...

Very little space inside. No rear visability (unless you remove the rear headrests and stow them in the boot, which is then half full!), no better on fuel than our previous Pug 306s even though the engine is half the size/power. Slow aswell. Costs just as much to tax as our old car too.

REALLY missing the diesel motor now.
 
Last edited:
lupoenginebay.jpg
border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />

1. Fuel Injector
2. Hall Sender (sometimes call CIS- Cylinder Indentifyer Sensor, or Cam Position Sensor)
3. Throttle Body, contains throttle postision sender, idle switch + more
4. Coilpack- sometimes called DIS or distributorless ignition system
5. EGR Valve Actuator Solenoid, the actuall valve is underneath on the exhaust manifold
6. Thermostat Housing
7. Wiring Plug for Lambda Probe
8. -Underneath Hose- Wiring plug for Knock sensor
9. wiring plug for Speed Sender- sometimes called CAS or Crank Angle Sensor
10. Coolant Temperature Sensor - or CTS
11. Oil Pressure Switch
12. Fuel Rail





Shamelessly stolen from Teflon on ClubLupo, dont know if it helps.
 
Looks like a twincam engine, prolly the gti.

She's back from work and the car is behaving exactly as before, stalls when pulling away and fells like it's running on 3 cylinders. Just took it out for a drive and it struggled to get up a wild hill in 2nd gear, foot to the floor and it just about held 30mph. Waste of £50 on a coilpack :(

Arse, looking at losing a pile of money on this now. Wish we'd stuck with older cars.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom