no i haven't got a spl meter..
tbh i had the bass level set to -0.04 because it was so bassy even at that setting. i tryed it at +0.12 (max) and it handled it well
I want 'club speakers'.
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tbh i had the bass level set to -0.04 because it was so bassy even at that setting. i tryed it at +0.12 (max) and it handled it well
Soldato
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Well if the PSU's are up to it then you're set. Even if it isn't, a good PSU should shut down when you overload it, but I've never really tested this myself.
The voicecoil of your car sub would melt before you put 1000W RMS into it anyway, so maybe my 400A esimate was a little on the high side...
Yep using car amps in the home is a pain as often a decent 12v PSU costs more than the amp, and also it's extra wiring and hassle. A proper PA amp is the best (and safest) way to do things if you need lots of Watts to your speaker from mains power...yeah you just have to check those thiele-smalls, really. most 'car' subs definitely are shashmy old 12" lightning audio filled my old living room with enough bass alright, and that was powered with a 2x100w denon amp. >105db from 25hz upwards. it wasnt much cop below 25hz really, but it was definitely loud enough for most material. There's not much to touch this cabinet right now in terms of performance and size...
edit: and you certainly dont need a car amp for a car sub lol
i cant see the use in pa speakers for a living room or anything like that.
Car subs can work really well in the right enclosure for HT, even tho this often requires some sort of horn enclosure which results in a speaker cabinet bigger than a washing machine. FWIW, the Danley DTS-20 uses a 15" or 16" car sub as it's specs are ideal for a tapped horn.
I think some people like to run PA speakers in the home as even tho they don't run them at very high volume, they like the higher amount of headroom, and if they do decide to crank the volume up, you get much more SPL before you get lots of distortion....
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Good grief.
Do you realise that my band PA which is 2900 watts is not as loud as your car stereo which is 4,400 watts?
I'll bet every penny that my band would break your car stereo.
Perhaps MikeHunt can tell me why car stereo manufacturers are allowed to tell lies on power?
Soldato
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oh yeah but i mean, >110db in the home? over the mid range and upper frequencies that is painfully loud lol
well, its not really limited to just car audio. its just about everything really lol
it isn't a car stereo. its a 7.1 system with extra speakers and extra subs lol
...i'm not here to say "oh i have a louder system or which system beats my system"
i've just saying what i'm usng...
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James is right here, it's not just car audio. I remember seeing some computer speakers once, "1000W PMPO" in massive writing on the box, then in small print somewhere, "5W RMS". Some manufacturers seem to pluck a number out of thin air and call it a power rating.
Imagine if you bought 4gb of ram and it actually turned out to be 2gb? I doubt the ram maker would be around for very long... Also, remember more watts doesn't always mean more SPL. The sensitivity (or efficiency) rating matters a lot too... for example a horn with 1 x 12" driver can output more SPL than 4 x 15" sealed cabs (with the added benefit of using much less power).The thing is, there is no standard for measuring power, but it would be better if there was.
For example, for Crown amps their specs give Watts RMS at 0.1%THD (next to no distortion basically), at 20Hz to 20KHz. Say for amp this was 500W per channel.
Some less well known brand (for example Numark
) could make the exact same amp but say it's 900W per chan, simply because they measure it at 1% or even 10% THD (audible distortion), at 1khz only! Basically there is no level playing field unless everyone starts using the same testing methods. If you can look at the specs in the online manuals, and see exactly power they are getting their power ratings. Crown and QSC tend to be the more honest shall we say.
It's the same with speakers, I have a 12" Eminence Magnum 12HO PA driver, rated for 600W RMS this is a real heavy duty driver with a 4" voicecoil. Some people have blown them when running 500W RMS thru them, but there is no need to put more than 400W into this driver anyway due to power compression (this is where you put more watts into the driver, but you get very little or no extra SPL).
I also have a crappy 12" Pioneer car sub, rated for 400W RMS, but with a 2" voicecoil it's not really going to last long if I put more than 200W or 300W into it for long.
I often go with a "no specs no sale" option really, be it amps, drivers, or any other bit of audio gear you are spending your hard earned cash on. For example, I looked up that car amp (TL-1092) but I couldn't find a Watts RMS rating anywhere.
Agreed, but some people prefer a monster turn down low even if they never end up using one tenth of the power most of the time...
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it isn't a car stereo. its a 7.1 system with extra speakers and extra subs lol
i'm not here to say "oh i have a louder system or which system beats my system"
i've just saying what i'm usng...
Apologies, I wasn't having a go at you, I was having a go at the manufacturers.
MikeHunt as stated that its more than a car stereo but I would still wager that if I tried to put all my band through it, it wouldn't last very long.
It is one of my hates when I see the power ratings on the side of computer speakers, car stereos, surround systems and you know a Marshall 50 watt valve amp would blow them out of the water.
Music gear manufacturers seem to be more honest about the power of their products and I suppose thats because theres a massive chance of A/B comparisons.
Even so my Marshall AVT150 150 watt is not as loud as my mates Marshall TSL601 60 watt combo.