Project 'sillyteg'

[TW]Fox;11886556 said:
Yea I was just thinking to myself how when people mention the quickest A to B cars around you often hear a list like... Mitsubisihi EVO FQ, Impreza STi, Audi RS4, Porsche 911 Turbo, Honda Civic..
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What a garbage comment.

All he said is that a civic can go round corners, which they car, particularly the EK9, JDM EP3 and FD2.

The type R's are reknowned for being excellent handling cars and are much more at home in the corners than on the straights.

Incredibly fair how you compare to cars which have twice the power of any CTR out there.
 
[TW]Fox;11886556 said:
Yea I was just thinking to myself how when people mention the quickest A to B cars around you often hear a list like... Mitsubisihi EVO FQ, Impreza STi, Audi RS4, Porsche 911 Turbo, Honda Civic..
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lol

made me laugh :cool:

bad luck drex mate, stick at it, modding cars would be dull as dishwater if you never had any hiccups along the way
 
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That's rotten luck Drexel. Pop it in the garage for a couple of weeks and try not to think about it. Then start work with a fresh mind and build the beast. :D.
 
Ive had my Integra fro nearly 4 years and had a full turbo kit for around 2 ready to go. Ive never got round to it as ive never been itching for more power tbh. (only after a trackday to make the car stupidly fast on a circuit) Bristol helped kill my need for speed but the cars are just so good with light mods and chassis work theres no real merit in complicating things.

Although this build has been unlucky you were always aware the block could catch you out by not allowing the head gasket to seal properly. Something that would have happened anyway and its not seen any boost to stress it anymore than a standard engine.

People often overlook just how good Honda chassis's are as the engines stand out as their engineering centre piece.
 
Ok, just did a compression test. It's ~120psi across all four, only 1 or 2 psi between them. At the 9:1 compression ratio that this engine is, that should be nearer 180-190psi, so I'm way down on all four. The strage thing is the cylinder that had the oil on the plug is exactly the same as all the rest :confused:

Also, aside from a little smoke when I started it up, the car is running fine again, no misfires, no smoke when driving or idling, just a little puff when I come to a standstill, which then clears. Other than that it's driving fine again, coolant levels haven't moved, and it's not overheating.

Any ideas? :confused:
 
Sounds like oil is getting somewhere it shouldn't be?

I had a problem like this on my 206 when one of the connectors came off the injector. The 206 had a limp mode on the ECU however it was still misfiring and generally making lots of noise and smoke.
 
I think the quicker you cut your losses and knock this project on the head the better off you'll be. It's pointless constantly throwing money at something which, despite all the will in the world, probably won't ever come to anything.

Cars are about enjoyment and its clear the point of enjoyment with this car was passed long ago. Get rid of it, buy something you'll enjoy owning and don't ruin it with overambitious plans again :p
 
DreXeL said:
Ok, just did a compression test. It's ~120psi across all four, only 1 or 2 psi between them. At the 9:1 compression ratio that this engine is, that should be nearer 180-190psi, so I'm way down on all four. The strage thing is the cylinder that had the oil on the plug is exactly the same as all the rest :confused:

Also, aside from a little smoke when I started it up, the car is running fine again, no misfires, no smoke when driving or idling, just a little puff when I come to a standstill, which then clears. Other than that it's driving fine again, coolant levels haven't moved, and it's not overheating.

Any ideas? :confused:
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Cracked cylinder head maybe?

Is the inlet manifold water cooled too? Could be a gasket leaking
 
[TW]Fox;11897639 said:
I think the quicker you cut your losses and knock this project on the head the better off you'll be. It's pointless constantly throwing money at something which, despite all the will in the world, probably won't ever come to anything.

Cars are about enjoyment and its clear the point of enjoyment with this car was passed long ago. Get rid of it, buy something you'll enjoy owning and don't ruin it with overambitious plans again :p
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TBH Fox, you don't know how tempted I am to do that. I've been browsing some of the import sites and there are several cars in jap-land that have cought my eye :o
 
The thing is I would need to get as much as I can for mine. I wouldn't want to let it go for less than £4k, but I'm not sure how many people would want to pay that for an 'unfinished project'. It's worth a lot more than that in parts, but I really can't be arsed with stripping the thing down.....
 
It'll be a shame to just drop the project, but I can understand why you'd want to. So long as the next one is also a crazy fun car I don't think it matters. :p :)

From what I saw the other night on PH, £4k doesn't sound that bad, but as you say the fact it's an 'unfinished project' does mean it'll be that bit harder to shift.

InvG
 
DreXeL said:
Any ideas? :confused:
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Thermal displacement, as the engine moves the clamping force on the head may allow insufficient pressure sealing in certain areas. You have a cooling system of water, water is incompressible.

TBH Im a bit suprised at this. You bought a cheap, questionable block with no guarantee it would seal, its now playing up and your not in the slightest bit happy about whats happened and rather suprised. Correct me if im wrong though.
 
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I guess there comes a time when at least one person agrees with Fox and if I'm honest I think he's right. I'm pretty sure I said when the RX7 let go, you should have stuck with the scoob. However, no point worrying about that now.

I also think Fox is right on the P1 - although Bugeye Prodrive STIs are cheaper still and much more car for the money just a shame about the stupid tax.

And to those saying why mention a standard car - well its obvious isn't it? A car built to run a turbo and put out 250+ HP won't give you the trouble you'll always have putting far too much power through a car that wasn't built for it. The mention that the P1 is twice as much as the teg? well maybe but how much do you have to spend on the teg to make it put out that much power and how much do you spend keeping it going? Standard P1 serviced properly and looked after won't cost the earth to run.

Assuming I can convince my wife a P1 would be a much better investment than a new kitchen I'll be in one by christmas...not. :)
 
Jonnycoupe said:
TBH Im a bit suprised at this. You bought a cheap, questionable block with no guarantee it would seal, its now playing up and your not in the slightest bit happy about whats happened and rather suprised. Correct me if im wrong though.
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You're right, I did take a punt on this block. I'm not 'rather surprised', of course I knew there was a risk that it wouldn't seal. I'm just a bit gutted because it all seemed to be going fine, then suddenly this happens. Of course I'm going to be a bit *****-off about it :confused:

Just because there was a risk that it wouldn't seal, it doesn't mean that I'm not going to be a little bit annoyed, even if it wasn't entirely unexpected.

EddScott said:
And to those saying why mention a standard car - well its obvious isn't it? A car built to run a turbo and put out 250+ HP won't give you the trouble you'll always have putting far too much power through a car that wasn't built for it.
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To be fair theres no reason why turbo'd Hondas have to be unreliable, when it all goes together right and everything is working as it should, they are actually pretty damn reliable.
 
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EddScott said:
Assuming I can convince my wife a P1 would be a much better investment than a new kitchen I'll be in one by christmas...not. :)
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Do it and do it now - time is running out to own a decent P1. They are what, 8 years old now? The older they get the more hassle they get and the harder it becomes to find a good one.
 
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