Which 50 inch Kuro?

badbob · 20 Jul 2008 at 19:46

Ignoring bundles with the screens, the 508XD and 5080XD is identical except that 5080XD lacks ISF.

However one place has 5080 in stock with stand and speakers with 5 years warranty for £1600, even though you don't need the first two the 5 year warranty is worth £400, and worth it for that. You can perhaps sell the stand & speakers on auction. If you're not bothered about ISF calibration then get the 5080

Matrix · 20 Jul 2008 at 19:54

is the ISF calibration function important feature?

(email sent to you)

badbob · 20 Jul 2008 at 19:56

That depends, if you want the best PQ from the set and don't mind paying £300. I haven't seen a ISF and non ISF screen so can't comment.

Matrix · 20 Jul 2008 at 20:05

badbob said:
That depends, if you want the best PQ from the set and don't mind paying £300. I haven't seen a ISF and non ISF screen so can't comment.

Ok mate thanks for the help on this as i've been very confused over these 2 sets and couldn't work out what was the difference between.

voodooflux · 20 Jul 2008 at 20:36

Hussman said:
If I wait until the new KRP models come out in the UK do you think there will be reductions on the 5090 at all?

I would guess that the availability of the KRP wouldn't really have any effect on the price of the 5090, as they're aimed at different sectors. You normally have to go to specialist dealer to pick up the monitor variants, as they tend to be aimed at either business or high-end users (i.e. those with external scalers).

Saying all that, the KRP-500A might break the mould given the seperate media box. I heard somewhere that there will be a £300-£400 price difference between the KRP and 5090, but I couldn't determine which way.

Hussman · 20 Jul 2008 at 21:31

Thanks, might hold off a bit anyway

It gives me more time to decide, and save my pennies to see if I can afford a 5090.

I'm going to take a look myself and see if its worth the extra.

badbob · 20 Jul 2008 at 21:33

voodooflux said:
I would guess that the availability of the KRP wouldn't really have any effect on the price of the 5090, as they're aimed at different sectors. You normally have to go to specialist dealer to pick up the monitor variants, as they tend to be aimed at either business or high-end users (i.e. those with external scalers).

Saying all that, the KRP-500A might break the mould given the seperate media box. I heard somewhere that there will be a £300-£400 price difference between the KRP and 5090, but I couldn't determine which way.

My guess the KRP will be more expensive.

voodooflux · 20 Jul 2008 at 21:38

Hussman said:
Thanks, might hold off a bit anyway. It gives me more time to decide, and save my pennies to see if I can afford a 5090.

That's pretty much what I did - for a couple of years! Several times I'd decided on a plasma only to wait for a newer model.

Hussman said:
I'm going to take a look myself and see if its worth the extra.

Definitely the sensible thing to do. I found a certain department store (not sure if I can mention the name here?) offering a 5 year warranty to be pretty good for Pioneer gear - one of the few places where the reps seemed to know their stuff and they had decent feeds. So many stores don't do the panels justice by feeding them rubbish - it's as if they don't want to sell any.

voodooflux · 20 Jul 2008 at 21:40

badbob said:
My guess the KRP will be more expensive.

Probably a good guess - it does look like it's more of a "lifestyle" panel than the previous MXE series (they were always pretty ugly compared to the consumer series).

badbob · 28 Jul 2008 at 14:52

Origin S2A arrived and built, went up easy enough however only two M6 bolts are holding the plasma to the stand to the main column.

Shelf is fine for a B&W CC6, just place it directly over the T piece to mimise wobble

badbob · 30 Jul 2008 at 20:55

5090 arrived, stunning blacks. Much blacker than the Samsung A556.
One lit sub pixel though, about 5mm from the bottom edge. I guess not worth bothering with a replacement, and will be refused?

Also get constant buzzing on drive mode 1, goes away on drive mode 2 but apparently this introduces pixel shimmering.

Oh 1920x1080 @60hz works from the HTPC without a hassle, had overscan but default is full. Change to dot by dot and sorted it. But then I noticed PC mode in HDMI setting, which is similar to the Samsung (disables colour, tint, sharpness etc) when you do that exactly like the Samsung, you can just choose 4:3 and 16:9, with the latter and with PC mode not selected, dot by dot) a maximzed window is right to the edge, no overscan.

Matrix · 31 Jul 2008 at 08:45

badbob said:
5090 arrived, stunning blacks. Much blacker than the Samsung A556.
One lit sub pixel though, about 5mm from the bottom edge. I guess not worth bothering with a replacement, and will be refused?

Also get constant buzzing on drive mode 1, goes away on drive mode 2 but apparently this introduces pixel shimmering.

Oh 1920x1080 @60hz works from the HTPC without a hassle, had overscan but default is full. Change to dot by dot and sorted it. But then I noticed PC mode in HDMI setting, which is similar to the Samsung (disables colour, tint, sharpness etc) when you do that exactly like the Samsung, you can just choose 4:3 and 16:9, with the latter and with PC mode not selected, dot by dot) a maximzed window is right to the edge, no overscan.

Had mine for 2 days now but in th emiddle of building a floating wall etc so t's not been out it's box yet :mad:

Glad your happy with yours though mate. Guessing you got it from the sma eplace as me then

-Ad- · 31 Jul 2008 at 08:58

badbob said:
5090 arrived, stunning blacks. Much blacker than the Samsung A556.
One lit sub pixel though, about 5mm from the bottom edge. I guess not worth bothering with a replacement, and will be refused?

And towards 200ish hours they get darker, just like my tan

Also think about getting some 'apollo LED' tubes from the avforums powerbuy and mount them the tv there will be less strain on your eyes as watching in a pitch black environment isn't ideal, plus they actually give the effect of even darker blacks

Also get constant buzzing on drive mode 1, goes away on drive mode 2 but apparently this introduces pixel shimmering.

I have a slight buzz on my set that only annoys me with no /super quite volume, or very low level listening volumes late at night. For these times put it into energy saving mode 2 and the buzz will be eliminated. Some say that it introduces more PWM noise, but I haven't seen any.

Drive mode variations don't seem to change buzzing on mine, but then again I have got too much french sun over the last week and a half

Use DM1 for blu-ray, dvd films etc, and any gaming, and DM 2 for freeview or normal tv.

1920x1080 @60hz works from the HTPC without a hassle, had overscan but default is full. Change to dot by dot and sorted it. But then I noticed PC mode in HDMI setting, which is similar to the Samsung (disables colour, tint, sharpness etc) when you do that exactly like the Samsung, you can just choose 4:3 and 16:9, with the latter and with PC mode not selected, dot by dot) a maximzed window is right to the edge, no overscan.

Dot by dot is what I use for the PC and no overscan. Pure cinema (PC) mode should be set to 'advance'for blu-rays and HDMI connections (I think, but not 100% sure), and turned off for normal tv viewing.

Also, I hope you have the tv in MOVIE picture mode, brightness to 0 or +1 (0 blacker, but +1 is more realistic and the true idling level of the set), contrast at ~32-35, and sharpness at -15. Then turn off all DRE and noise reduction crap, and put it in colourspace 2 for the most natural colours. These are only GUIDE settings to get you going as each set is different and not getting ISF calibration would be a huge crime to the set

Enjoy the set as it beds in, if you want more detailed settings then just ask. Mine is setup well now and will be approaching 200 hours at a guess in the next week or so, or might have surpassed it anyway. Then ISF calibration will come, and I will post a proper review over what it has done just to wet peoples appetite and see it is worth every penny.

Matrix · 31 Jul 2008 at 09:04

-Ad- said:
And towards 200ish hours they get darker, just like my tan

Drive mode variations don't seem to change buzzing on mine, but then again I have got too much french sun over the last week and a half

Use DM1 for blu-ray, fdvd films etc, and any gaming, and DM 2 for freeview or normal tv.

Dot by dot is what I use for the PC and no overscan. Pure cinema (PC) mode should be set to 'advance'for blu-rays and HDMI connections (I think, but not 100% sure), and turned off for normal tv viewing.

Also, I hope you have the tv in MOVIE picture mode, brightness to 0 or +1 (0 blacker, but +1 is more realistic and the true idling level of the set), contrast at ~32-35, and sharpness at -15. Then turn off all DRE and noise reduction crap, and put it in colourspace 2 for the most natural colours. These are only GUIDE settings to get you going as each set is different and not getting ISF calibration would be a huge crime to the set
.

I plan on just using Drive 1 for everything as i'm going to be running SKy, PS3 , Wii though my Onyko 875 amp then Output via HDMI to driver 1 .

Shouldn't be any issues there should there?

I was going use the settings thats on Av forum.

Thanks

-Ad- · 31 Jul 2008 at 09:28

Matrix said:
I plan on just using Drive 1 for everything as i'm going to be running SKy, PS3 , Wii though my Onyko 875 amp then Output via HDMI to driver 1 .

Shouldn't be any issues there should there?

I was going use the settings thats on Av forum.

Thanks

No, should be fine with DM1, I sometimes forget to turn it to DM2 for tv anyway

Will you be looking at getting it propery ISF calibrated, as if you did the advice would be to connect as many things directly to the tv, so each source can be accurately calibrated, something that'can't be done with everything connected to an amp ?

Being really picky here

But just enjoy it as is, with those settings off avforums it will look simply sublime, and will only get better and blacker over time.

I haven't seen mine for 2 weeks with being away, and can't wait to get batman begins blu-ray on tonight, ready for Dark knight IMAX at the weekend

Now I need to find a HD-dvd player somewhere and get in on some bargains

Matrix · 31 Jul 2008 at 09:35

-Ad- said:
No, should be fine with DM1, I sometimes forget to turn it to DM2 for tv anyway

Will you be looking at getting it propery ISF calibrated, as if you did the advice would be to connect as many things directly to the tv, so each source can be accurately calibrated, something that'can't be done with everything connected to an amp ?

Being really picky here But just enjoy it as is, with those settings off avforums it will look simply sublime, and will only get better and blacker over time.

I haven't seen mine for 2 weeks with being away, and can't wait to get batman begins blu-ray on tonight, ready for Dark knight IMAX at the weekend

Now I need to find a HD-dvd player somewhere and get in on some bargains

Thanks for the feedback mate.

Just need to get the lounge sorted it's killing me looking at this HUGE box!

.

Just got a few Blu-Rays for the ps3 can't wait to have it all sorted out. MDF board should be going up tonight all being well

.

Cheers -Ad-

badbob · 31 Jul 2008 at 10:36

Dot by dot is what I use for the PC and no overscan.

But can you adjust colour? You shouldn't and don't want to do that, as it shows going through the TV's processing. Go into option, HDMI, and change from Video to PC. Exactly like the Samsungs.

Oh movie is not assignable per input, I'd calibrate your best video source on movie, then use user for the other sources. Seems gamma tracking is nearer with movie, low colour temp,colour space 2, then using user.

Shared inputs are daft, you can't use SCART 1 & HDMI 1, VGA and component (I think those two) and SCART 3 & HDMI 3 at the same time.

Spanker · 31 Jul 2008 at 17:36

I hear no buzzing on mine.