Soldato
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- 14 Jul 2005
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Or the fluid is mostly water
\o/
Or mine just has awesome fluid in it.*
Mine will have awesome stuff in it at Easter.
*I think it's just generic dot 5.1
Nearly totalled a 106
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
\o/
Or mine just has awesome fluid in it.*
Mine will have awesome stuff in it at Easter.
*I think it's just generic dot 5.1
Associate
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- 17 Jan 2004
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- Staffordshire
Just learn from it, understand where you went wrong. You got lucky and don't need to again. Move on with life without trying to find excuses.
youre banging your head against the way trying to convince people of that. if you have a mk4 golf gti you cannot have the standard 288mm brakes you need them to be 312. if its modded engine wise they aim for 340mm. to put that into perspective, standard e34 m5 front discs were 314mm
back in the real world. my friend has 256mm brakes on his e30 (with 24v 2.5 engine) so 200bhp. 60 in 5.9, all in all a little moster. no brake fade though. ive never had fade on my tiny 280s either
a properly sorted out standard brake system will be fine
my only question to op and slightly off topic, why are you (according to siggy) trying to tune up a 2L diesel rover 420 ?, just seems a weird thing to do. it's got the perfect amount of power already for the tesco shopping run 
oh about the grooved disc question, I don't know much about mechanics but I thought grooved discs was more about pad 'cleaning' rather than cooling, could be very wrong though
/fluke gets hat and and coat and runs from thread
oh about the grooved disc question, I don't know much about mechanics but I thought grooved discs was more about pad 'cleaning' rather than cooling, could be very wrong though
/fluke gets hat and and coat and runs from thread
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i thought the idea of grooved was to move pad glaze. it also seems that grooved discs wear very evenly (without scoring). ive not had a set myself but a set i fitted to a friends car a couple years ago seem to have worn without any scoring at all
Don
- Joined
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Drilled discs are to dissapate gas buildup, and stop you losing braking power.
Vented to help cooling
Grooved to help remove pad glazing, and also helps with surface gas buildup.
I think thats right?
Vented to help cooling
Grooved to help remove pad glazing, and also helps with surface gas buildup.
I think thats right?
the theory on that is right, but ive used drilled before my current plain ones, and there was no difference. im not entirely sure the drilled theory is entirely sound
That's because the scoring comes from deposits that embed themselves in the pad, which on a set of grooved discs don't build up!
im strongly considering some after seeing that performance, but what you save in not having to change the discs youll spend on pads as i suspect grooved discs will wear them faster
Soldato
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Seems to me like it is really. You've got a tuned diesel which you were hooning about in (like a boy racer) and you almost hit another car due to your brakes fading terribly, whether it be mechanical failure, or just simple brake fade, you really shouldn't have gotten yourself in that situation. For goodness sake go and sort your brakes out, and drive sensibly. I drive a 106 and they don't come out of crashes very well. If you'd have hit the drivers side of a 106 at any considerable speed, you would have seriously injured or even killed the driver.
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[TW]Fox;13799740 said:
theres also the basic physics aspect of it
If you up the horsepower, you also up how fast it can accelerate. So its not just the speed you've got to overcome too, its the acceleration as well.
Think of Newton's 2nd law of motion : the net force on an object is proportional to the time rate of change of its linear momentum. Also know as "Force equals mass times acceleration"
Greater the accleration, the greater the force. Therefore if an object is accelerating faster, it will have a greater net force and will require an equally greater force applied to the brakes to stop it.
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Pretty sure this would only apply if attempting to brake whilst accelerating. Given that 99% of the time a road user wouldn't be doing this, the acceleration one would attribute to the scenario pre-braking would actually be a decelleration, thus negating any power gains the engine may have had.
The only reason the brakes need to be uprated when gaining more engine power is down to the increased speeds attainable by the car (and the greater amount of repetitive need for aggressive braking).
i see your point, that you wont always (in fact most of the time wont be) accelerating, but i can certainly thing of sometimes where ive put my foot on the gas to accelerate, and then had to change and slam on the brakes because somethin has happened in front of me.
in the <1s it takes to swap pedals, i dont think the car is likely to have stopped accelerating altogether
in the <1s it takes to swap pedals, i dont think the car is likely to have stopped accelerating altogether
I'm not sure about that assumption. When you stop pressing the loud pedal then there is only a minimal amount of air going to the engine, so only a minimal amount of fuel - in fact many cars will go into overrun and turn off all fueling. This provides a minimal amount of force - is this force enough to cause acceleration? It would have to counter all the friction and air resistance.
Thinking about it a bit more - is the momentum of the engine at these speeds enough to cause acceleration? My gut feeling says no.
Thinking about it a bit more - is the momentum of the engine at these speeds enough to cause acceleration? My gut feeling says no.