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help please - 328 catalytic converter

R420LA6X2/4MNA said:
Au contraire!

In "Sport" mode on the autobox it'll happily scream round to the red line, the point being that by 5400rpm the engine is well past its peak torque, not to mention peak power!
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That by itself doesn't mean it's not useful to be able able to reach the red line. In any arbitrary gear, acceleration will be greatest at peak engine torque, but if you drop a gear and move RPM well past peak you will gain in acceleration if wheel torque is higher. All depends on the gear ratios and how quickly torque drops off after peak. Something that many diseasal owners apparently have difficulty comprehending...
 
Fido McNasty said:
Hmm. Not sure on this without seeing it first hand but the ECU might have tripped into limp mode. Something like that. I'll make another call tommorrow and see if I can find out why it would still hold at 5400 rpm's after this issue.
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hi i've had the fault codes cleared

run pefect for a few miles and back to same old reving problem

this time nothing showing up on diagnostics

i've unpluged the maf sensor and drove it around for a bit but the car doesnt feel any different seems odd?
 
So it's clean up to 54 yes ?

Try disconnecting the battery for (minimum) five minutes, then reconnecting. Run the car around after that and see how it is. If it isn't the brain running in safe mode then the only other items I can imagine are the fuel pump is dying or it has clogged the pick up filter.

Anyway, try that battery disconnect deal first. Give it 5 clear mins.
 
Hi already tryed the battery

which is the pick up filter

someone also suggested the sensor in the diff
 
Been chatting to Danny on MSN and doing some rev limiting research on BMWs...came back with possibility of the Speed Reference Sensor playing up and maybe a faulty ABS sensor is also playing up, although I didn't see any reference to ABS sensors causing limited revs.

SPS though is known to limit revs in e30s from what I understand because it sends back a signal telling the ECU it's over revving, so the engine cuts fuel.

Fuel pump and filter are a good shout but surely that'd give poor performance and not rev limit?
 
DannyW said:
Hi already tryed the battery

which is the pick up filter

someone also suggested the sensor in the diff
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This is purely for the record and not a definate cause alone, but if you want to examine the pick up filter - It is in the fuel tank. Accessed under the rear seat, below the (looking from the rear of the car forwards) right side black tin panel, four philips screws holding it down through a simple foam gasget. Unplug the pump and sender plugs, knock the blue or green big plastic lockdown nut round with a mallet and large flat screwy till it's loose enough to unscrew by hand. Lift out the assembly and have a good look at the filter on the bottom end. If there is any syrup and/or debris potentially blocking it. This can happen if the fuel has been allowed to run extremely low after a succession of years with a relatively full tank.

This deal isn't right to me though. We need another brain to hook up to it, but let me guess, your 96 car is EWS 1 so I don't think we can even do that.

Try another diff speed sensor in there from your buddies car. Although I don't know myself what the issue potentially is with that I have heard it mentioned in the past to be a possible problem. And the next best thing I can try and do is run this lot by Nigel again tommorrow (didn't get a chance on the weekend or today tbh) and see where we stand.
 
InvaderGIR said:
Been chatting to Danny on MSN and doing some rev limiting research on BMWs...came back with possibility of the Speed Reference Sensor playing up and maybe a faulty ABS sensor is also playing up, although I didn't see any reference to ABS sensors causing limited revs.

SPS though is known to limit revs in e30s from what I understand because it sends back a signal telling the ECU it's over revving, so the engine cuts fuel.

Fuel pump and filter are a good shout but surely that'd give poor performance and not rev limit?
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I agree hence me thinking that not being a sole cause. What you have posted all makes good sense. :)
Bloody electronics. So yeah, definately try with the diff sensor plug first and go from there.
 
Hi it still does it when the car isn't moving so i doubt its the sensor in the diff.. is there any more speed/rev sensors on the car?

strangley now it doesnt bounce up and down at 5400 it just stays there and won't rev any further
 
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DannyW said:
Hi it still does it when the car isn't moving so i doubt its the sensor in the diff.. is there any more speed/rev sensors on the car?

strangley now it doesnt bounce up and down at 5400 it just stays there and won't rev any further
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Something is afoot, regardless of what the diagnostics is reporting. There remains the possibility that the brain (ecu) is faulty, which I hope isn't the case as I believe your car could well be EWS equipped (EWS II or 2). You should be able to varify this by whether you have a fatter key and transistor fob and black plastic ring around the ignition barrel, or if not sure about that varify with a BMW dealer by calling, asking if they can in turn varify spec (they should be able to) and giving the last seven figures of the chassis number to the stealer. A non EWS ECU won't work with it, only and EWS ECU, which in turn must be calibrated to the engine/dash loom or central body electrics.

ABS sensor could be faulty (as Inv mentioned earlier) and sending what interprets as wheel slip signals back to the system, thus limiting rpm's. This is well worth a look.

The other possibles remain, such as a faulty Crank position sensor signal, or Cam sensor position signal (or combination of both, one can mask the other on proprietary diagnostics equipment such as Snap-on and Blue Point types). If you still have access to your friends donor car, then it could be worth trying the crank sensor from that car in yours first. Thats the one located down by the starter motor, a few inches forward and up from it into the block. The cam pulse generator/sensor is located near the vanos unit to the right. You should see it located to the head via a 6mm allen headed bolt through a plate with the sensors head visible. It is tucked away slightly and a little fiddly to reach I believe (could be wrong).

A partially blocked fuel breather valve (non electrical hence no diagnostics will varify this) and/or canister. Check all the vacuum lines on that system are attatched and that there is no perishing or cracking of the rubber anywhere, particularly toward the ends at joints etc. This operation will take some time as you need to track the lines under the inlet manifold etc. It is a pain in the backside to perform so be warned. If there is a crack letting air pass near to the end, there should be enough line generally to cut it shorter and re-attatch. If when the engine is being switched off are you hearing any higher pitched whistling noises etc at all ?

Another is that the oil viscosity is wrong, and that the single vanos unit isn't pressuring up or activating properly with an oil that is possibly too thin. This could concievably be sending the cam out of true normal running sync which in turn could limit rpm's. Or, vice versa the cam pulse sensor is faulty and may also be worth a try swapping out with your friends donor one. So try ther sensor first. Do you know what oil is in the engine ? Should be something like a 10w40 semi or fully synthetic. 0w30 or 40 is too thin. A 20w50 would be way too thick.

The crank position sensor and the cam pulse sensor are fairly expensive at around 60 to 80 pounds a piece retail. So well worth a trial with used ones if possible.

Lastly, and if this isn't the stupidest question ever to not yet get asked I apologise, but we HAVE ruled out a Nikasil issue haven't we. By pressure testing the cylinders each individually ?

I do maintain, I am NOT a mechanic here. I am merely trying to help. If you know better or for sure what this issue is, please do step up right now and help. I have also mentioned for you Danny to possibly ring Moseley Motorsport directly and have words with Nigel about this. Explain the situation exactly and to the best of your knowledge. He will also likely ask if it is an EWS car, with a view to possible ECU faults. But that is honestly about as far as I can go at this time without us seeing the car in person.

I know this is frustrating and like you I would love to see this fully resolved.

Ugh, another edit. Sorry. Another possible issue is the fuel pump/pressure regulator is faulty. May well be worth swapping this out also in the elimination process. That unit I think is located along the fuel supply lines toward the rear left swing arm. Or the fuel filter could be blocked or partially blocked. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=865169 to replace fuel filter. Us car in the feature but system is basically the same on UK/Euro spec cars.
 
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ye i sold it lol

right headache, buying an mondeo st220 in september. never buying a old high milage car again specially a beemer
 
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