Abit IP 35 + Bolt mod

Sukh

Sukh

Sukh

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As above, I have an Abit35 and Q6600 with VID 1.225 at 3.4ghz and want to get to 3.6ghz and wanted to know about this whole PWM/Bolt mod dealy.

Anyone done it, and how hard is it? I was thinking of getting some nylon bolts/nuts?

Also how can I check the temp of my PWM?


Thanks!
 
Cheers for the obvious links, now back to what I asked.

Has anyone done it here?
How do I check the temps of my PWM reliably?
Would Nylon bolts be a good idea?
 
Is it the standard IP35 or the Pro?

I have done it to the Pro, but only added bolts to the PWM sink, left the rest with push pins.

Also did similar with my old IN32X MAX, only with it I removed the stock thermal pad and added a very thin copper shim to bridge the gap, made a HUGE difference to temps.

No need for nylon bolts, use steel and if you are concerned about shorts, either use the little paper motherboard washers, or some nylon/rubber ones.

You should be able to check the PWM temps with either Everest or HW Monitor. Both show mine, and both show the same temps.

Abits own uGuru will also show the PWM temps.
 
Thanks Diggsy :)

Its the normal IP35 "Dark Raider" whatever that means.
I will try and get some rubber washers as I obviously don't want to short it!

I will try and check my temps with everest, what's acceptable during small FTTs?
 
You really don't want to see temps much above 80 - 85c. I know they are good for (IIRC) somewhere in the region of 110 - 115, but I found anything much over 80 caused issues with stability.

With the bolt mod and decent paste (I used Ceramique to avoid any issues with conductivity) you should see substantial drops in temps.
 
I can't seem to find where to check temps in everest?
Found it in sensor!
As an aside, my HDDs are all about 40C, time to put a fan in the bottom compartment in Antec P182?

I have some MX3 that I was planning on using due to non-conductivity.
 
Yeah, sounds high for HDDs, but depends what ones you use. My Samsung F1 is inside a GUP Smart Drive 2002C and currently is sitting at 25c. Never seen it hit 30c yet.

Will try to check for a manual for that IP35, perhaps there is no way to view PWM temps?
 
I found it, 44C in normal usage, going to run Prime for half hour or so and see what happens :)
 
How does this look after about 45 mins?

Capture.png


The volts seem pretty low for 3.4ghz is that right? In BIOS I'm sure I set it higher?

Also is Coretemp or Everest got the right Core temps? They are exactly 10C apart so is it something to do with tjmax?
 
That all looks fine.

CoreTemp is likely reading higher as TjMax is set to 100c. If you look in Everest preferences you will likely see it has it set to 90c.

Apparently Intel state it should be 90c, but I have read plenty of conflicting articles regarding this.

If you want to have CoreTemp use 90c, then go to Options>Adjust Offsets, and set to -10.

With regards to your volts, looking at that I would bet you set around 1.33 or 1.34v in the bios? If so thats pretty normal, these boards can have around 0.1v vdroop. I set mine to 1.52v bios, and under load it actually runs at 1.42 - 1.43v.
 
I did it with a AW9D-max and IP35-pro
removed the stock thermal pads for mx2
also lapped the bases of the 'black' heat sinks to remove the paint.
mine linky
and here an old thread on the subject - linky
 
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Diggsy said:
That all looks fine.


With regards to your volts, looking at that I would bet you set around 1.33 or 1.34v in the bios? If so thats pretty normal, these boards can have around 0.1v vdroop. I set mine to 1.52v bios, and under load it actually runs at 1.42 - 1.43v.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Yup its set to 1.33v in BIOS


You think I can make it to 3.6ghz? I just made an external BIOS switch to make it easier to OC so want to use it.

400 X 9 shouldn't be too hard?
 
Sukh said:
Thanks, Yup its set to 1.33v in BIOS


You think I can make it to 3.6ghz? I just made an external BIOS switch to make it easier to OC so want to use it.

400 X 9 shouldn't be too hard?
Click to expand...

Should be a breeze with such a low VID really. :)

EDIT - Here are my settings with system in sig (and bear in mind my CPU has a VID of 1.3v)...

External Clock - 400
Multiplier - 9x
DRAM Speed - 1:1:25 (DDR2-1000)
PCI-E - 100

CPU - 1.52v (1.42 or so under load)
DDR2 - 2.0v
CPU VTT - 1.23v
MCH - 1.29v
ICH - 1.05v
ICHIO - 1.5v
DDR2 REF - 0%
CPU GTL 0+2 - 67%
CPU GTL 1+3 - 67%

Limit CPUID MaxVal - Disabled
C1E - Auto
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
Virtualisation - Disabled
EIST - Auto

RAM - By SPD
 
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Capture-1.png


I think it can do this on less volts, did lazy OCing and just whacked it up to 1.4 in BIOS, but I think it can do it on less juice.
 
Thats mighty impressive at 1.3v real IMHO. I doubt you'll get that much lower if at all.

The only thing would concern me is the PWM temps, its just a little toasty, but not too bad. Do you have a fan over these?
 
No fan over PWM, I think I might have to do the bolt mod, didn't really want to pull the mobo out of the case and everything.
So will buy new fans as these tri-cool are too loud and then take out the mobo, bolt mod and swap fans over in P182 :)


Thanks once again Diggsy, much appreciated :)
 
No probs mate. Tbh you may well see big benefits with a little fan over the PWMs, can knock quite a few degrees off load temps.
 
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