Asus rampage III Extreme

Tradenurd said:
Yes. I have an old 8800GTX that I will use to test. Also I could move the GTX480 into my old system (Intel DP35DP Mobo). Problem is that my old PSU does not have the correct wires to get all the power to the 480.

Thanks.
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Well test the 8800GTX in your comp, you shouldn't need to change the drivers either so just wack that in and give it a whirl ;).

eternal_fantasy said:
The best method is also the simplest. One ball from the size of a grain of rice to a pea, depending on the consistency of the TIM, at the center of the CPU, then drop the heat sink or water block straight on, spreading the TIM in the process. This way you know any air between the contact surfaces are pushed out as the TIM spreads. The actual chip is much smaller then the IHS, so the little bit on the side that wasn't touched by the TIM really won't make a difference. All these lines, crosses, union flag pattern, spreading it with your finger or a credit card (which happens to be the most time consuming with the worst result, as it traps the most air from the never perfect manual spreading, creating crevices), smiley face pattern etc. you see people touting are just compensating for the fact that some people can't or find it hard to place the heat sink straight down onto the CPU.
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I think come summer I may lap my CPU and use the method you mention as it makes the most sense. Will be interesting to see if it actually does make a difference or not.
 
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bhavv said:
The temps were lower now, I got 88 - 84 - 81 - 80, but it BSODs within 10 minutes at 4.2 Ghz, so now I'm begining to think its definately the board / bios.

The amount of tim to use depends on the type of tim, with MX3, I found I got far better results on both my CPU and GPU by covering the CPU / GPU really well. Using a rice grain or pea size amount gives absolutely terrible temps with MX3 and it doesnt spread anywhere.

This is what it used to be at on my UD5:



:(
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Rather than apply the settings yourself, try using the "auto" settings for all the voltages, just to make sure that the board/CPU/RAM conbo actually work. It's what I have been doing with mine. It bumps it up to 1.42V and runs perfectly fine, mind you I only tested it with 10 runs of LinX.
 
eternal_fantasy said:
The best method is also the simplest. One ball from the size of a grain of rice to a pea, depending on the consistency of the TIM, at the center of the CPU, then drop the heat sink or water block straight on, spreading the TIM in the process. This way you know any air between the contact surfaces are pushed out as the TIM spreads. The actual chip is much smaller then the IHS, so the little bit on the side that wasn't touched by the TIM really won't make a difference. All these lines, crosses, union flag pattern, spreading it with your finger or a credit card (which happens to be the most time consuming with the worst result, as it traps the most air from the never perfect manual spreading, creating crevices), smiley face pattern etc. you see people touting are just compensating for the fact that some people can't or find it hard to place the heat sink straight down onto the CPU.
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But my temperatures are lower now. Also, arcording to Arctic, you are meant to put a line across the centre, not just a blob in the middle. Unless you've tried and compared different methods yourself, dont assume that just putting a blob in the middle is always the best solution, because it never has been for me on either CPU or GPU (Spreading a good layer over the whole die / IHS always works better for me).

All I did was put a line down the centre, just vertically instead of horizontally then spread it out to the edges.

VortX said:
Rather than apply the settings yourself, try using the "auto" settings for all the voltages, just to make sure that the board/CPU/RAM conbo actually work. It's what I have been doing with mine. It bumps it up to 1.42V and runs perfectly fine, mind you I only tested it with 10 runs of LinX.
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Auto volts are fine for water cooling, I just tried it and 90 degrees in 10 seconds with auto volts is not really very good (1.425, 1.375, 1.65 is what it sets them all too, that is way too much for any air cooling to handle).
 
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Yea, mine says 2.12v even though I havnt changed it from 1.81v in the bios.

I'll just have to settle for 4 Ghz then.

Well, 4 Ghz is completely fine at 1.3v and stays <80 degrees:



But I cant get 4.2 Ghz stable even up to 1.4v :(

4 Ghz @ 1.26v = BSOD, now trying 1.275v.
 
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bhavv said:
But my temperatures are lower now. Also, arcording to Arctic, you are meant to put a line across the centre, not just a blob in the middle. Unless you've tried and compared different methods yourself, dont assume that just putting a blob in the middle is always the best solution, because it never has been for me on either CPU or GPU (Spreading a good layer over the whole die / IHS always works better for me).

All I did was put a line down the centre, just vertically instead of horizontally then spread it out to the edges.
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Hey, do what you think works best for you. :)
 
Bito said:
The results don't seem any better than the RIIE or even the P6X58D's. Not sure what to get now.
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Give it a chance :) We still only have the first BIOS, the other 3 beta BIOSs all have changes in them to allow for better overclocking and compatibility :).
 
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I'm just trying out this OC - 3.4GHz @ 1.1V:

93035ghz.png


This is with 50% LLC, so if this doesn't work at 1.1V (Vdroop at 1.08V) then I will either put it up to full LLC or jump it up one notch on the volts.
 
bhavv said:
But I cant get 4.2 Ghz stable even up to 1.4v :(

4 Ghz @ 1.26v = BSOD, now trying 1.275v.
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21x multiplier isn't very stable on a 920 mate because it is one of the two "extra" multis, try and keep it at 20x, and up the BLCK, also, if you haven't done so already try turning off spread spectrum, turn LLC on to full calibration and you may need to up your QPI/DRAM.

EDIT: Put QPI/DRAM onto "auto" until you find the CPU voltage sweetspot. Don't try too hard either, the new BIOSs will hopefully give you a better OC anyway.
 
bhavv sounds like you have a duff 920

maybe try another

edit, the onboard memory controller is usually what limits the i7s try with one stick of ram and see how it likes it rather than all three see if it makes the difference.
 
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Prime95 stable for 2hours, 3.4GHz @ 1.1V LLC - 50%, HT enabled, all other voltages left at auto for now. Can't leave it any longer as I have to crack on with some work on the comp, looking good though.

93034ghzprime952hours.png


For some reason my NB/SB temperatures seem to be a lot hotter than before, what is everyone else getting on load?

EDIT: How reliable is Realtemp? It seems to give 2C above all the other sensor programs.
 
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Either my memory is extremely good or the voltage regulation for DRAM on this board is insane!

I managed to get the following settings prime95 stable (I forgot to get a screenie but I will go back to it after I have perfected this 3.4GHz OC and get some screenshots):


Latency: 7, 9, 9, 24
Frequency: 2006MHz
Voltage: 1.45750V

I'm now testing the current setting at 1625MHz @ 1.272V and it is booting into Windows fine and is already through about 10mins of prime95 so far. I haven't tweaked latency yet, but those voltages are just crazy?

EDIT: This TurboV EVO app is SO useful! Don't have to constantly reboot the system, just keep turing down the voltages whilst running prime95 until it starts showing errors (or the computer crashes lol).
 
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VortX said:
bhavv what NB/IOH temps are you getting after a good few hours of Prime95 or LinX? Mine are now hitting 68C which is rather worrying :(.
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My NB temp monitor is broken and the temperature stays fixed at 29-31 degrees and never changes. I've tried with both Asus Probe and HWmonitor.

Unless I were meant to install something to make it work ...
 
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