700bhp for 10k 'spec me' thread!!

How many run 700hp reliably?

Turn key reliably isn't really something that you should expect from any engine cranking out more than twice what it left the factory with...

The point I'm trying to make is that there are no good reasons why the GE cannot handle big power where the GTE can. Whilst not identical, they are very similar and the GE is an extremely strong engine, and that has been proved time and time again over in the states. The problem here is that the vast majority of people who are in the UK Jap/Drift scene are sheep and nothing other than a 1JZGTE/2JZGTE will do.
 
How many run 700hp reliably?

if you read the thread, its about making a car travel a minimum of 400metres at full throttle, not drive you around europe for the summer.

i couldnt run 700bhp all day long in my rx7, id blow it bits! but all it needs to do is last 32 seconds, after that ill turn the power down to 550bhp so it lasts more than 2 days.

would a GE last years at that power, i dont know, i know the gte engine does and from Joshy says it will make that power but maybe it wont last quite as long as a GTE but that isnt the purpose of the thread.

I think your gonna find it harder to buy and build a car that does 700bhp all day long, 365 days a year
 
A GTE will, that's proven, even if given extreme punishment. Just look at the DW S15, been running close to 700hp for 4 years and never had an engine blow despite being given absolute punishment.
 
A GTE will, that's proven, even if given extreme punishment. Just look at the DW S15, been running close to 700hp for 4 years and never had an engine blow despite being given absolute punishment.

The DW S15s 2JZGTE is far from standard internally.

And for extra lols, I seem to remember that they sourced and fitted a Crankshaft from... You guessed it, a GE.
 
Ive heard of a 1.5 Vtec engine that'd been taken over 700bhp believe it or not.
I just think in terms of ease a massive engine most likely a large lump of american iron is going to do it most easily


I think your gonna find it harder to buy and build a car that does 700bhp all day long, 365 days a year

You dont need 700bhp driving down most roads, without 4wd the torque is probably going to be a liability when you arent paying attention

Ive always liked the idea of variable boost or something where you have the power only when required for the weekends, etc.
I think on superchargers you can sometimes just change the ratio with a tighter rubber belt or something easy like that and it'd make more power.

Lower or no boost improves mpg and reliability thereby giving you best of both worlds or is it not that simple:confused:
 
The DW S15s 2JZGTE is far from standard internally.


No, i'm pretty certain it's all stock.

Ive heard of a 1.5 Vtec engine that'd been taken over 700bhp believe it or not.
I just think in terms of ease a massive engine most likely a large lump of american iron is going to do it most easily




You dont need 700bhp driving down most roads, without 4wd the torque is probably going to be a liability when you arent paying attention

Ive always liked the idea of variable boost or something where you have the power only when required for the weekends, etc.
I think on superchargers you can sometimes just change the ratio with a tighter rubber belt or something easy like that and it'd make more power.

Lower or no boost improves mpg and reliability thereby giving you best of both worlds or is it not that simple:confused:

All cars have this, the pedal on the right.
 
As I said then, it's a stock bottom end just with ARP bolts. Some initial teething troubles but nothing since then. The GE and GTE crank are identical, that's common knowledge.
 
As I said then, it's a stock bottom end just with ARP bolts. Some initial teething troubles but nothing since then. The GE and GTE crank are identical, that's common knowledge.

With Uprated Main Bearings. And Uprated Big ends. That is not "All stock".
 
Trivial items. The crank, rods, and crucially the pistons are stock. This is of course what I was getting at all along.

"Trivial" times or not, the engine is clearly not standard. It's not an accurate representation of how strong the Standard GTE is when abused. No ifs, not buts, it's not a standard engine.

I'll ask again, what are you basing your theory that the GE won't hold the power on?
 
Not sure on prices of below components as I'm taking a "spec list" from a MkII Golf of somebody I know that runs at santa pod

Mk2 Golf
Audi 1.8 20v Turbo (AGU code)

82.5mm J.E Pistons (making it 1.9 )

Scat 20mm Connecting Rods

Siemens 870cc Injectors with Fuelab Adjustable FPR

Garrett GT35R Turbo

Ross Machine Racing Inlet Manifold

ADR N/A Inlet Camshaft

Interglactic Tubular Turbo Manifold

Tial 44mm External Wastegate and Tial 50mm BOV

PWR Chargecooler

Earls Braided Hose and AN Fixings

2 x Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Schadek Oil Pump

APR headbolts

Supertech Inconnel Valves and springs

IIRC after that lot its running 600bhp then an additional 25-150bhp on nitrous

It is probably out of the budget but hey ho
 
Because it has weaker, higher compression pistons. Jesus christ :/

I don't know why you're "Jesus Christ"ing. You're the one that made the foolish statement :rolleyes:.

As I've mentioned before, the pistons are different. This does not mean that the GE pistons are made from butter. Numerous cars out there are holding down massive numbers with standard GE bottom ends.

If you'd seriously lose sleep over it, feel free to stick in a set of TT pistons for the wallet crushing sum of £50. So you've got pretty much an entire GTE spec bottom end for £100 , considering the twins, injectors, cams and other GTE extras will need to be thrown in the bin long before we reach the power goals discussed, I don't see the logic of going with a GTE. Unless of course you think £900 is a reasonable amount to spend on oil squirters...
 
Not sure on prices of below components as I'm taking a "spec list" from a MkII Golf of somebody I know that runs at santa pod

Mk2 Golf
Audi 1.8 20v Turbo (AGU code)

82.5mm J.E Pistons (making it 1.9 )

Scat 20mm Connecting Rods

Siemens 870cc Injectors with Fuelab Adjustable FPR

Garrett GT35R Turbo

Ross Machine Racing Inlet Manifold

ADR N/A Inlet Camshaft

Interglactic Tubular Turbo Manifold

Tial 44mm External Wastegate and Tial 50mm BOV

PWR Chargecooler

Earls Braided Hose and AN Fixings

2 x Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Schadek Oil Pump

APR headbolts

Supertech Inconnel Valves and springs

IIRC after that lot its running 600bhp then an additional 25-150bhp on nitrous

It is probably out of the budget but hey ho


That must have LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!

I had a GT35R on an R33 GTR and that didnt really get going till 4krpm! Also had the advantage of revving out to 8.5krpm. That must be an interesting power delivery!
 
Ive heard of a 1.5 Vtec engine that'd been taken over 700bhp believe it or not.
I just think in terms of ease a massive engine most likely a large lump of american iron is going to do it most easily

You dont need 700bhp driving down most roads, without 4wd the torque is probably going to be a liability when you arent paying attention

Ive always liked the idea of variable boost or something where you have the power only when required for the weekends, etc.
I think on superchargers you can sometimes just change the ratio with a tighter rubber belt or something easy like that and it'd make more power.

Lower or no boost improves mpg and reliability thereby giving you best of both worlds or is it not that simple:confused:

700bhp has been hit on a single cam vtec engine in the US, i remember back in 2005 there was a yellow one running high 9s down the quarter.

you can get a fair bit more than that if you go twincam vtec 1.6 but a lot dont normally bother unless they are racing in a class, the usual thing to do is use a b18 block, have it sleeved up to 2.0ltr, you then have the potential for 1000bhp+

the only time you need variable boost is if your on a track day in the rain i would say, and to be honest you are gonna run a electronic or manual boost controller anyway in this sort of application.

If your trying to drive with better mpg why are you full throttle? if you dont go full throttle then you will get the same mpg whether the car does 5psi or 50psi of boost

Also your putting your foot down with 700bhp, i think that will have all your attention, i wouldnt like to go full throttle in a 400bhp unless im concentrating on what im doing.

also i put about the 365days to say the engine doesnt have to last, just make it down a quartermile in one piece.....ie its length of time under stress is less than something used all year around

With Uprated Main Bearings. And Uprated Big ends. That is not "All stock".

True, its almost stock but again your correct in that changing anything to take more pressure instantly becomes none stock so should be void.

Not sure on prices of below components as I'm taking a "spec list" from a MkII Golf of somebody I know that runs at santa pod

Mk2 Golf
Audi 1.8 20v Turbo (AGU code)

82.5mm J.E Pistons (making it 1.9 )

Scat 20mm Connecting Rods

Siemens 870cc Injectors with Fuelab Adjustable FPR

Garrett GT35R Turbo

Ross Machine Racing Inlet Manifold

ADR N/A Inlet Camshaft

Interglactic Tubular Turbo Manifold

Tial 44mm External Wastegate and Tial 50mm BOV

PWR Chargecooler

Earls Braided Hose and AN Fixings

2 x Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Schadek Oil Pump

APR headbolts

Supertech Inconnel Valves and springs

IIRC after that lot its running 600bhp then an additional 25-150bhp on nitrous

It is probably out of the budget but hey ho

that engine and bits will cost a lot of money, probably looking at least 10k right there, then you have to buy the NOS, stick it in a car, if you can price up the components online it might be possible but i doubt it
 
Back
Top Bottom