Another First time watercooling log

In theory it shouldn't matter which side they go, however there is usually too much clearance between the plate and the bottom nut for the spring to be able to compress.

Yep, nothing wrong with that pic, thats how it works. spring compresses the block down onto the chip.

I think the way your thinking about it would mean spring would go on the underside, this would work by trying to push the block off?
 
Pic made me look again at my mount, the full copper/nickel version's mounting plate sits a lot lower than this and you end up with a lot of thread showing. I'm thinking of modding the mount so i can use some M type hex bolts instead. I know what you mean about the instructions though, it's like one of the pictures is out of sequence.
 
Thanks for the res pics, however that is a normal EK multioption res not the advanced as per you spec list, hope you didn't order the advanced and get the normal by mistake.

Bit late now but it looks like you would have been better off with a restop instead of the xspc top and ek res combo, but once you sort out the leaning tower of Piza thing it will be ok. Also if you are still having problems bleeding that then there is no problem with temporarily unscrewing the pump feet and lifting the pump out of the case while you rotate the case around, if you haven't already sussed that. With the way you have your rad barbs pointing downwards you pretty much have top do that to ensure all air in the rad can get out.

Yea I copied the spec for the res straight from my order history here on ocuk

Also the pic were it's learning is after I have done just what you have said. Holding the res above the rad. Will check those comp fittings on the side of the res today and let you know
 
Yea I copied the spec for the res straight from my order history here on ocuk

They've sent you the wrong res then, the advanced should have more ports at both ends and should also come with some hard acrylic tubes which screw into the ports on the inside of the res.

PaulyD said:
I think the way your thinking about it would mean spring would go on the underside, this would work by trying to push the block off?

Yes, on second thoughts putting the spring below the plate has no benefits whatsoever.
 
Yes, on second thoughts putting the spring below the plate has no benefits whatsoever.

At first I had it setup with the springs below thinking they were there so you didn't over tighten it. After a while I though it might not be right so youtubed it and got a friendly german doing an indtaltuon vid on the LT version
 
So no leaks after 10 hours all so, which is good. Put everything back in and rewired it all up ready to go. Lucky I decided I should give it one more leak test before I power everything up. So I turned the pump and fans on a started to blew it (I drained it move move it in the car) and it seems that everytime I lift the pump/res the outlet fitting on the waterblock is coming loose. After my forth or so time lifting it up water started pouring onto the graphics card and next to the power supply. So it's back to undoing an checking all the fittings and filling it again. Lucky I took it slow though and didn't just go for it.
 
Hi, just finished water-cooling my pc and when I finally plugged everything in..... Nothing!! It doesn't even light up. I think it might be the 24 pin as I have been sticking paper clips in it to see if it's working. I wiggled it and some lights come on and fans start but it doesn't stay on for more than 2 secs

Hopefully it's just the adaptor

Any advice
 
You may have pushed one of the pins out of the 24pin. Unplug the psu and check that all the pins are the same length, if 1 is shorting it'll need pushing in from the back of the connector. If your using any extenders check all the pins on those as well. Do this with the power off, don't want you electrocuting yourself :)
 
Cheers, found the problem my fan controller gets wired up to the internal USB header with each wire individually. It must have Been wrong because I decided to start unplugging things I don't need one at a time, this being the first. Such a relief when it started working.

Thanks for the help
 
Yep, will post some temps after I have a drink and calm down. Spent over an hour thinking I killed the motherboard. Although I had connived myself I should get the rampage III if it was dead but never mind.
 
4ghz
idle = 36 -39
prime95 = 61 - 63

Now this is with the fans at 2000 rpm but only the top 3 are working that the moment until I can get some spitters and extensions to reach the contoller
 
Excellent log mate!! Thank you for sharing and helping others who want to try the same.

thanks mate, Found out its quite hard work to make a log, its ok at the start but after a while you just want to go blazing ahead. I have missed one or 2 steps. Also the only internet access I have had has been my iphone and my only camera. Takes ages to upload anything.
 
So here are my final pics, running it at 4ghz at the moment with temps on prime in the low 60's. Will increase to 4.2ghz when I get a new power supply (my pc was left in a garage when I moved and it got flooded, mono and power supply were ruined) just got a crappy one at the moment. Anyway did the cable management as good as I could, think it turned out alright

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Not a great pic of back, glad you can't see it

8a4b7c2e.jpg
 
well i'm thinking of going the watercooled route and i'm confused about siteing the rad at the top with the fans pushing air through it and out the top.surely this means that you are pushing hot air through the rad as hot air rises??? what do ppl think about this and where is the optimum place for the rad.also is it best to pull cold air in or push the hot air from inside out through the rad?
 
Well the fans in mine are pulling cold air from outside the case and pushing it though the rad and into the case, after the it's exhausted out of the back case fan. I have read before that it's not a great idea to to it the other way round just for the reasons you said. As for the best rad placement is someone much more qualified than me will have to answer. All I can say is my temps are much better than I hoped for and give me a good amount of scope for higher clocks at virtually no noise
 
Pushing air from within your case and out is quite common, especially with all these cases with cutouts ready for rads (800d roof cm690 etc). Case temps will be lower anyway since your watercooling the cpu and only your gpu and mobo will dump heat into the case. Rads ideally should be in their own area, like in the tj07 or v2000 (not viable for a lot of cases) or outside the case on a rad box/stand for the best cooling as they'll be able to use the coolest air and not be dumping it into your case.
 
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