ECU for Civic Type R worth it?

Relentless81 said:
Then maybe you shouldnt slate someones car that you have no experiance of what so ever referring to it as unreliable just because its had a battery, thats just ridiculous. In fact why do I even let it wind me up you obviously, along with a few other people on here, have no idea what you are talking about if you think a dead battery makes a car unreliable. Apologies anyway, I shouldnt take it to heart when its obvious you're looking to cause a problem and I drive my car everyday and know for a fact there is nothing wrong with it
Click to expand...

to be fair... you did put up a thread asking how you could speed-bin it and get your money back.

you just come across as that type of person who, regardless of what they have, will unquestionably continue to trying ramming your opinion of it being teh bestest evah down people's throats.

if youre happy with the toy yoda now then all well and good but dont make up stories about being so over the moon with it and it being the greatest when only last week you were asking us how you could get your money back
 
Will Gill said:
forgive me if I mention it but didn't your car recently go back into the garage with a gearbox issue? An issue which if im not mistaken I (not exclusively) diagnosed as you weren't very knowledgeable about such things
Click to expand...

:confused:

My car went back to the garage to inspect a noise, gearbox was mentioned but I never said it was the gearbox, no i'm not a mechanic, whats that got to do with sending my car back to the garage, why are we talking about my car in a thread about Honda Civic ECU's. I know why, because Will Gill likes to cause an issue slating peoples cars when he's never even seen it?

:confused:
 
Johnnytoxic said:
how about this ECU upgrade anyway :)
Click to expand...

I'd stay away, it would improve the car but as value for money it's gonna be pants and you may not even notice the improvement.

If you had thousands to throw away then maybe it would be worth it - but then again maybe not cause you'd just be looking at FI.

Minimal gains on a N/A engine and high price means it's just not worth it.
 
Matt82 said:
to be fair... you did put up a thread asking how you could speed-bin it and get your money back.

you just come across as that type of person who, regardless of what they have, will unquestionably continue to trying ramming your opinion of it being teh bestest evah down people's throats.

if youre happy with the toy yoda now then all well and good but dont make up stories about being so over the moon with it and it being the greatest when only last week you were asking us how you could get your money back
Click to expand...

I said in that thread that I regretted saying about getting my money back on the first page

I dont think its the bestest ever at all? WHen did I say that? Seriously WTF!? When did I make up stories about it being the greatest? I'm sorry but thats just rubbish, i'm happy with the car, end of.

This is nuts I really dont understand whats going on, I say to go look at forums where people are more clued because people on here are recomending FI''ing an NA car with no ECU work and now we are slating my car just because I noise inspected? I dont get it at all
 
If it was 500, I'd do it. Probably best looking for a second hand kpro.

Not so much the performance gains that attracts me to it. It's the lower Vtec engagement.

Unless you have drove a CTR it's hard to fathom. but when your driving around country lanes the mid range power would be so benificial.

Straight line acceleration would hardly be noticable as you get into the vtec straight away in first.
 
children please put the knifes away and play nicely

and fwiw sell it and buy something with torqs y0

only kidding m8 has a breadvan and has spent vast sums on it, dont know which one but he swears by his aftermarket ecu with all the ability to fiddle with things specifically the vtec engagement point.

as mentioned try and pick one up second hand from the vtec y0 forums and your laughing. but would probably be better to consider other mods first ie manifolds exhaust etc and sort the breathing :)
 
Relentless81 said:
This is nuts I really dont understand whats going on, I say to go look at forums where people are more clued because people on here are recomending FI''ing an NA car with no ECU work and now we are slating my car just because I noise inspected? I dont get it at all
Click to expand...

what is wrong with recomending FI on an NA,

Its a bolt on upgrade, one which I personally nearly bought, I made my buying decision based on biggest bang per buck, this was leaps and bounds ahead, all the others offered tiny gains compared to the outlay they required.

I never mentioned not mapping the ECU, we were discussing tuning the engine and I replied saying the standard internals were quite capable/reliable, I then went onto mention toy yodas and you had a hissy fit, quite why you get so bedazzled and confused with things is really rather weird.
 
Will Gill said:
what is wrong with recomending FI on an NA,

Its a bolt on upgrade, one which I personally nearly bought, I made my buying decision based on biggest bang per buck, this was leaps and bounds ahead, all the others offered tiny gains compared to the outlay they required.

I never mentioned not mapping the ECU, we were discussing tuning the engine and I replied saying the standard internals were quite capable/reliable, I then went onto mention toy yodas and you had a hissy fit, quite why you get so bedazzled and confused with things is really rather weird.
Click to expand...

Whatever big man, i'm over it :cool:
 
A Kpro or K100 is a WELL WELL worthwhile upgrade.

I have
RBC
Kpro
B Pipe
Gruppe M induction.
Toda Manifold.

My car produces 240bhp and feels COMPLETELY different to stock.

Kpro Induction kit and B pipe are what id go for,.
 
deus3x said:
A Kpro or K100 is a WELL WELL worthwhile upgrade.

I have
RBC
Kpro
B Pipe
Gruppe M induction.
Toda Manifold.

My car produces 240bhp and feels COMPLETELY different to stock.

Kpro Induction kit and B pipe are what id go for,.
Click to expand...

in your case its a good investment, if the OP has none of those mods its like buying some gloves for someone with no arms, a nice to have accessory but until he gets some arms ultimately uselss :p
 
A standalone ECU will be of almost no benefit to you unless you've already carried out Intake/Header/Exhaust mods.

moving VTEC wont help either unless you have mods because as somebody pointed out (and got flamed for it) its in the correct place from the factory, no need to move it unless you alter the power band (im not sure about your car but on a ATR/Prelude it needs to bee at the point where the bottom curve passes through the upper curve on a dyno sheet) I.E

IMG_8972.jpg
 
ubersonic said:
A standalone ECU will be of almost no benefit to you unless you've already carried out Intake/Header/Exhaust mods.

moving VTEC wont help either unless you have mods because as somebody pointed out (and got flamed for it) its in the correct place from the factory, no need to move it unless you alter the power band (im not sure about your car but on a ATR/Prelude it needs to bee at the point where the bottom curve passes through the upper curve on a dyno sheet) I.E

IMG_8972.jpg
Click to expand...

5252 rpm? All torque and power curves cross there on imperial scale...

I guess you meant to regurgitate 'where the low cam and high cam torque curves cross' ;)
 
I'd like to get my teg Kpro'd at some point in the future but i am slightly worried that with the VTEC point lowered it might lose some of its charm - the kick you get at 6000rpm is great fun and if it was a smooth power curve like the kpro makes it im not so sure it'd actually be as 'fun' even though i'm sure you could make progress on a B road faster
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom