Breathing some life back into my 420 Turbo (Lots of pics)

Also mocked up some mounts for the coil which allowed me to measure up for my custom HT leads. Also ordered the flywheel which should be here in a few weeks with any luck.

meant to ask this earlier..

why are you using the EDIS module instead of driving the coil pack directly from the ECU. Surely it'd be simpler to just get the coil packs off a later T series, and use that. Then you're not faffing with custom mounts and leads.
 
Andy will correct me if i'm wrong here, but I don't think you can get the front engine mounts brand new any more, they were discontinued a while back and nobody has any stock left.
 
meant to ask this earlier..

why are you using the EDIS module instead of driving the coil pack directly from the ECU. Surely it'd be simpler to just get the coil packs off a later T series, and use that. Then you're not faffing with custom mounts and leads.

Coil packs off a later T seires are still a twin pack firing batch. No different to the Ford EDIS module.
 
but it's more faffing than is needed. adding custom mounts, custom leads and another module that has the potential to fail. Excuseable when the parts don't exist already.. but they do.

Doesn't using EDIS restrict the amount of control you have over the spark too?

My engine came with COP, my ECU was setup for wasted spark. So i just got the coil packs from an earlier engine and used that. That way I had an OE bracket, OE coil packs and could use OE leads.
 
but it's more faffing than is needed. adding custom mounts, custom leads and another module that has the potential to fail. Excuseable when the parts don't exist already.. but they do.

Doesn't using EDIS restrict the amount of control you have over the spark too?

My engine came with COP, my ECU was setup for wasted spark. So i just got the coil packs from an earlier engine and used that. That way I had an OE bracket, OE coil packs and could use OE leads.

Well you have to buy new leads anyway as the Distributor ones don't fit.

The Ford EDIS units are cheap, easy to find and work well with MS units.

Doesn't really matter which is used, comes down to preference
 
Pics or it didn't happen :D

:D

GeX, I bought my MS-II pre-assembled for EDIS. I wouldn't say I was a complete n00b with a soldering iron but soldering PCBs on such a small scale is just a little bit out of my comfort zone.

As Simon says, EDIS works pretty well with MS-II and seemed like a nice upgrade to the standard dizzy/coil system... however as you point out you do lose some functionality as the EDIS controls things like ignition dwell rather than the ECU, but for me that was a plus point.

Neil, I think you're right about that one. I would have thought the supply would have dried up a while back now. If sourcing a second hand mount, the best car to get one from is a NASP T-series as these don't usually get the abuse that the Turbos do.
 
Last edited:
Make a proper front mount, one like a donut so the rubber doesnt have to take all the engine torque loading. Its a terrible design.
 
So, it's been a while. The car didn't make it to Germany like I'd have hoped... in fact, even 5 months later, it's still in no fit state to be driven.

But, progress is being made and there's some light at the end of the tunnel. Dropped the engine back in yesterday, 8 months after it was taken out. At least that's out of the way and I can bolt the suspension back up so it's back on all 4 wheels.

Anyway, on with some pictures.

My flywheel took a while and turned up after something like 6 weeks. It was machined to my specification with a custom trigger wheel so can't complain really. It's nice and light, probably about half as heavy as the original wheel. I couldn't be bothered to get it on the scales to find out but it should allow the engine to rev much more freely.

flyrear.jpg


flyfront.jpg


Even though my new cams were wrapped in bubble wrap and kept in a box in the garage, they were showing signs of slight rusting on the lobes. They were cleaned up with some very light sanding, ready to be fitted. They're Piper 270 cams and for the moment will be used with standard pullies. I'll be keeping my eye out for some verniers to allow me to get the best out of them.

piper270.jpg


I also tarted up the wood trim by giving it a bit of colour. Should help to modernise the interior when fitted alongside the Momo steering wheel, Recaro seats and a handful of gauges.

paintedwood.jpg


My once mint OZ Ultraleggeras also underwent a bit of work. Filled and smoothed any damage and gave the rest a key, ready for paint. I've got a colour in mind but I'll keep that quiet until they're done. Probably won't get round to painting them until after the winter now.

ozwheels.jpg


ozwheel-1.jpg


The interior was also gutted ready for some re-wiring. The alarm, ECU and gauge wiring is all integral to the car. Looks nice and neat, but will be a pain to remove in future... which is exactly what I wanted, especially when it came to installing the alarm.

interior.jpg


I also noticed that the sound deadening underneath the carpet was quite damp on the passenger side and appear to have a leak from somewhere up front, need to trace that before the dashboard can go back in. Headlining will be recovered in black (currently light grey) and a CB aerial (installed by a previous owner) removed from the roof and a plate welded over.

Before the engine was removed, I had an oil temp sensor in the sump. This worked well when the car was stationary but as soon as you started moving, airflow over the sensor caused the gauge to plummet. I had a mate shot blast the sump and weld some plate to reduce the effects of this. I also gave the sump a few coats of Hammerite to protect it.

tempsensor.jpg


After 140,000 miles, the engine was looking a bit manky. It was given a de-grease, several coats of paint and the head mating face cleaned up ready for re-assembly.

blockface.jpg


A genuine Klinger head gasket (only the best for this car) was fitted and some oil poured down each cylinder to protect the bores while it was sitting.

headgasket.jpg


After lapping in the valves and cleaning up the head, new stem seals were fitted and the head rebuilt. This took a while due to the tiny little collets holding the valve springs in place being very fiddly.

valvespringcomp.jpg


collets.jpg


fittingcollets.jpg


The head was then leak tested using some white spirit. The first few attempts showed some weeping and if I was going to all this effort, it was worth doing right. You can also see my attempt at port matching the exhaust ports, I doubt this will give any noticeable gain but hey, every little helps ;)

leaktestweep.jpg


After a few attempts, I had it holding fluid meaning that the valves were sealing perfectly. Should make good compression.

leaktest.jpg


With good results on the leak test, I continued to rebuild the head. Valves, springs and collets all in place ready for the cams and carriers.

headbuilt.jpg


The head was then bolted down and the cams fitted with new oil seals, the pump housing assembled and fitted with new water and power steering pumps.

camsin.jpg


flywheel.jpg


pumphousing.jpg


The cambelt tensioner was looking a bit worse for wear but being metal usually lasts for a long time. I decided to replace it with a brand new tensioner, fitting a new cambelt at the same time.

And then following onto yesterday's activities, with the help of a mate, the engine found its place back where it belongs.

enginein.jpg


Along with the obligatory thumbs up picture of me...

enginein-andy.jpg


So with quite a bit done but plenty more to be getting on with, it feels like I'm finally getting somewhere. I've not done anything with the bodywork yet which due the recent damage from roof tiles, I'm glad about. There are lots of bits (some very rare) to be fitted to the exterior though, I can't wait to see what it's going to look like!
 
Looking fantastic mate :D


What you forgot to mention was you were standing on a block in that last picture :p

Any chance of some msn? has been a while :)
 
Not into Rovers much, but this im quite liking the look of. Very clean motor looking at the pics, hope it all goes to plan for you.
 
Im blown away by people who do this amount of work successfully. I struggle to swap the cat over without breaking a bolt or the wrench even

How much power /torques does this car make now, they lose some compression after many years normally right
 
Very impressive stuff Andy, it was running well enough at the last RR I saw it at so I'm sure it'll be even better once you're done.. I look forward to seeing the finished result :) Wish I had the patience and knowledge to go to these lengths of rebuilding!
 
Back
Top Bottom