Big Bike Thread

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Nix said:
You may well be right. I do try to 'unload', but obviously I'm not doing it well enough? Do I need to be throwing my whole weight onto the front suspension the second I've got the front wheel onto the ledge?
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All I do is stand up and lean forward as soon as the front wheel has cleared the lip. I don't compress the suspension or thrown myself forward, basically just lift myself up.

I do tend to run around 60PSI when I am doing a run thats all tarmac (tyres rated to 80psi). In fact I run that PSI all the time unless I am going off road which will no doubt help with pinch flats but also keep rolling resistance low so making it easier to move.
 
That parachute helmet really is rubbish, when i was deciding on a lid i looked at them, that chin bit is so flimsy its pointless. Just learn to fall off right so your face doesnt hit anything better to use your forearms/hands and legs to hit the deck than your head and back. Dont be scared of falling off, get used to it.
Courses are a good idea, dont even think of it as a course think of it as a days riding with some new friends.
 
ichabod crane said:
Telling people how to ride over the internet is never going to work :p What you guys need is a good helping of Stop Crashing :D
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Haha, I like that site

"Upgrade Yourself and Stop Being ****!"

...reckon I should do this one
http://www.great-rock.co.uk/blog/?page_id=1561

Who IS this bike hobo btw?
5588546220_3ac3219be1_z.jpg


Ive seen him in a few vids, the old man is pinned
 
TheBrooder said:
Where do you ride around Wigan?
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Set off from the Infimary, down through the main gates to Haigh Hall off the main road.

Tarmac'd down to the bottom, over the bridge, then left and along the side of the river, sand and then its brick/cobbles/mud. Follow the track up, and it brings you back out further up the footpath. You can work your way to Haigh Hall almost all the way on the brick/cobble/mud tracks.

Then go past the hall, and down the access road, take a left and it takes you down a gravel access road, over the canal. Then theres a mud track under the railway and takes you close to the RUFC. You can loop back round and head back up to the hall for some extra climbing.

http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/h84Nxl2N2Qc

Its not that technical, but the climb up is moderately steep, steeper than the trail centres I have been to, so it works well as practice for there. You can do some small jumps and there are some steps and stuff too you can work in. I have seen some quite big drops/steep slopes that some other riders have used, but seem a bit too big for me.
 
Received my forks from crc and they have sent completely the wrong forks they aren't tapered and they aren't even air forks ,they are rubbish I will not be ordering from them again.
what a bunch of nobs I can even exchange them for the correct ones because they are out of stock
 
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Fellers ... I'm buying an 2011 Orange Crush frame but it has a tapered headtube and I don't want to spend a bajillion on new forks, is there any way I can use my current forks with the non-tapered steerer?
 
Cuchulain said:
Fellers ... I'm buying an 2011 Orange Crush frame but it has a tapered headtube and I don't want to spend a bajillion on new forks, is there any way I can use my current forks with the non-tapered steerer?
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Yep, you need a headset with a standard 1.1/8th top cup and a reducing bottom cup from 1.5 to 1.1/8th. You may have to buy them separately as you will be wanting to alternate cups.
 
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I've knackered the saddle on my 2010 scott spark 30 Does anyone know what saddle it is and where I may get a replacement.

I know saddles are a personal choice but I dont want to go through 20 saddles trying to find one that comfy for my big butt
 
Hencore said:
Any one got a 2 or 3mm headset spacer in black they would part with or know where I can purchase a single spacer in that size?
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I probbaly have one for you, that you can have... but tbh it's probably best just to buy a set of spacers as you will inevitably need them again at some point in your biking years :)

I've learned that every spacer/nuts/bolt/mount/rotor/etc comes in handy at some point. Just get a bike-toolbox and keep all those niggly spares in there.
 
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Cuchulain said:
Fellers ... I'm buying an 2011 Orange Crush frame but it has a tapered headtube and I don't want to spend a bajillion on new forks, is there any way I can use my current forks with the non-tapered steerer?
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You can pick and mix Hope headsets so any and all combos are available.
 
mattyg said:
I've knackered the saddle on my 2010 scott spark 30 Does anyone know what saddle it is and where I may get a replacement.

I know saddles are a personal choice but I dont want to go through 20 saddles trying to find one that comfy for my big butt
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Google :p It would seem it is a self branded saddle (Scott Racing / CROM rails) so you might not be able to get it after market.
 
No the top cap should touch the Stem or spacer, so that the screw is pulling on the steerer. Yours is currently just holding the top cap on and not the forks :D

The stem/ spacer should sit around 3mm higher than the top of the steerer, I reckon you need a 5mm not 3mm spacer.
 
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