Just got my Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR Di II LD Asp

More bad advice, in fact it's this kind of advice that will ironically lead to "disappointment and frustration".
You obviously don't understand the relationship of precise AF that doesn't suffer either front or back focus Vs Keeper rate, as a correctly functioning AF will have more margin for error (that inevitably happens by the user and equipment) than a setup that is on the edge of spec, let alone slightly off spec.

I wonder how many poor folks are out there right now taking a picture one minute that's in focus, and the next OOF and not knowing why that is happening, no doubt blaming themselves one minute, and their gear the next.
How disappointing and frustrating must that be do you think?
Well I can tell you, VERY.

It's not bad advice, bad advice is to tell people to go looking for problems. What I've said has been said by many people with far more experience than me. So much easier in the film days when nobody could afford the film to shoot pictures of rulers and viewing at 100% wasn't an option!

If the lens has a significant front/ back focussing issue then this will show consistently in real world use not produce one shot in focus and the next out of focus and real world performance is all that really matters.
 
It's not bad advice, bad advice is to tell people to go looking for problems. What I've said has been said by many people with far more experience than me. So much easier in the film days when nobody could afford the film to shoot pictures of rulers and viewing at 100% wasn't an option!

Even more bad advice, people should look for problems, and if they don't find any... Yippee, they probably are not going to run into problems when it counts, they can then rest assured their kit operates as it should.
And who on earth doesn't view their images at 100%? how are you retouching your images exactly?

If the lens has a significant front/ back focussing issue then this will show consistently in real world use not produce one shot in focus and the next out of focus and real world performance is all that really matters.

Seriously, what photography do you actually shoot?
Have you done much portraiture with fast lenses?
There is a reason why Pro's in the old days used to send in ALL their gear to the manufacturer together to get calibrated.
 
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Well next week i'll be doing church photography, if it fails at this i'll return it!.

If you shooting wide angle then everything is in focus, how can it fail at that?
You might actually want to think about testing the lens properly to actually find out if the focus is accurate, because eventually it's likely you'l want to sell it, and I don't know about anyone else, but if I receive a duff lens from a seller, it goes back in the post the same day for a refund.
 
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You might actually want to think about testing the lens properly to actually find out if the focus is accurate, because eventually it's likely you'l want to sell it, and I don't know about anyone else, but if I receive a duff lens from a seller, it goes back in the post the same day for a refund.

Except due to manufacturers tolerances a lens that has focus issues on one body might not on another body.
 
Except due to manufacturers tolerances a lens that has focus issues on one body might not on another body.

Except it may have even worse focus issues on another body, (depending on how far the lens is out, and if his current body counteracts the AF error if there is an AF error).

Anyway I'm about done in this thread as until the lens is actually tested properly this is all academic and a waste of time, a simple lens AF test isn't hard to do, don't know why the Op hasn't done it already so I'll leave you all to it.
 
Anyway I'm about done in this thread as until the lens is actually tested properly this is all academic and a waste of time, a simple lens AF test isn't hard to do, don't know why the Op hasn't done it already so I'll leave you all to it.

Ok Thanks :o
 
Ok back, haven't been able to test it properly as my health has been poor, how do i do a proper AF test?

Also do all pictures need a touch of sharpen?, is it because of my high expectations that i expect it to be pin sharp with a lens like this?
 
Just done some tests and i read that my digital rebel xti has " noise reduction - ON "

I thought this only affects JPG's, turned it off and my images have become much sharper. Perhaps a derp moment?
 
if you feel that way then it's better returning it as the 18-55 is one of the worst canon badged lenses and if there's something worse then it really doesn't need to be in your kit bag.

The Canon 18-55mm IS version is generally praised for its image quality for a kit lens. It is substantially better than the original 18-55mm kit lens. However, as you say, a (working) Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens should provide noticeable improvement in almost every area.

Neil, it sounds like you are new to this. I'm not sure if you are aware, but with DSLR lens ownership it becomes almost an obsession for some people when they get a new lens to test it and ensure it is working correctly. Some people like to shoot test charts and the likes but it is true that if you use the lens at maximum zoom close to MFD (Minimum focus distance) this can lead to extreme results where focus (being an analog system) can make errors slightly. As people have said, it is best not to get too worked up on this and spend hours upon end pixel peeping and shooting test charts.

My suggestion would be to go out and use the lens for real life subjects for a day. Make sure you use a high shutter speed and high enough ISO to ensure camera shake is a non issue. Use the lens at wide apetures and take plenty of portrait pictures with shallow DOF. Come back and review the pictures. If they are consistently looking soft then it might be worth giving it to someone with more experience to give it the once over. It is very unlikely to be the body at "fault", although certain camera bodies can be the "problem" in that they are calibrated within spec but at the extreme end of an in tolerance spec whereby the lens might be at the opposite end of said tolerant spec causing issues. This can be checked by using the lens on a demo body in a shop or a friends body.

Anyway, without wishing to complicate matters for you, I would have a play and then check the results back. Make sure you are are far enough away when taking photos. The berry shots of close subjects look like you are close to the MFD (Min focus distance) of the lens. This means you are close to "bottoming out" as it were, where the lens cannot physically focus on an object much closer. Be sure to be more than say 40cm back - I am completely guessing the MFD of that lens @ max 50mm zoom. It may be more or less.

A quick simple test you can do which is very popular just as a quick slap dash test, is to line up some AA batteries at equal distances apart at a 45degree angle to the camera, and take a shot of them. You can google this. The best method is to shoot on a tripod with mirror lock up at a fast shutter speed, high iso, max apeture (i.e. f/2.8) and focus on the middle battery. BAsically everything possible to make sure camera shake is a non issue which can blur the results. You foucs on the middle battery preferably using normal AF phase detect focus, and also compare it to the live view with contrast detect focus. What you should see, is the battery to the left and right of the middle battery focused on drift in and out of the depth of field area equally. This is essentially the same as using a focus test chart. It aims to show whether the lens has issues with front or back focus. This is as it sounds. Some lens can literally drift forwards or backwards from the intended focal point and is the most common reason people receive what they perceive to be a "bad copy" lens. A lot of the time, it is poor testing by the owner or obessive behaviour where there is no problem. This is why I said to just go out and use it in the real world as well. :)

I hope this helps you.

For what it's worth, the 3rd party lenses from Tamrom and Sigma are much more suseptible to these problems with poor quality control. I have had bad copies before. It does happen. The Tamron 17-50 is very much a key lens this happens on.

At the end of the day, if you are unsure, atleast you have the ability to take it back to the shop and get a replacement since it sound slike your Mum bought it new from a shop? This is so much less stressful than dealing with "dodgey" lenses from second hand purchases!

Good luck. Let us know how you get on.
 
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Just done some tests and i read that my digital rebel xti has " noise reduction - ON "

I thought this only affects JPG's, turned it off and my images have become much sharper. Perhaps a derp moment?

Neil, I also doubt this would affect the images in terms of overall sharpness to the extent that you are describing and showing. So do not worry about settings like this. Just use it mainly in AV mode wide open but ensure the shutter speed is always nice and high. Preferably above 1/85th second as a general rule in case you are using it at 50mm. This should avoid any camera shake which might hamper your assesment of sharp images.
 
Neil79, if you keep listening to posters like above, they will get you wasting a whole day of your life 'testing' the lens in so called real world scenarios, instead of 10 minutes (maybe an hour if your new to this) in front of a test chart, and how happy do you think your going to be with a whole days worth or soft images, some of which could have been corkers?

The below people use a test similar to what I posted previously, the principle is the same but maybe a tad less accurate (not noticeable imo), and I know this because I was once in a similar position as you, and they described to me exactly how they test a lens for errors.
http://www.hlehmann.co.uk/8.html

These folks use this method to calibrate both camera's and lenses professionally, they don't run around taking photo's for a day to first of all see if there is a problem, basically they have their **** together and know what they are doing. Just this fact alone should tell you how credible the above poster is.

Anyway, I really am done now, haven't got the patience with these noobs offering you duff advice thinking the know what they are talking about.
 
God, there are a lot of pixel peepers around here.

I have never done any focus charts ever, nor do I own one.

I get a lens, focus on something, take a photo. Look in LR at 100% and see what i focused on is clear or not.





Done.



At 2.8 you get a lot more leeway too!
 
I think I'd drive myself insane with test charts and as such have always avoided them. As already said, real world use will show you how sharp it is. If you know how to take a photo, and what effects sharpness then you'll easily be able to test your lens. The most frustrating part of it is the time it takes, but it can be fun too :D
 
God, there are a lot of pixel peepers around here.

I have never done any focus charts ever, nor do I own one.

I get a lens, focus on something, take a photo. Look in LR at 100% and see what i focused on is clear or not.

Did you not send all your stuff away to be calibrated, or am I remembering someone else doing that?

I guess you have never used micro-adjust or AF fine-tune either...

@Op

Just send it back and be done with this unpleasant experience, just you won't have learnt anything for when it happens again.
 
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Did you not send all your stuff away to be calibrated, or am I remembering someone else doing that?

I guess you have never used micro-adjust or AF fine-tune either...

The 35L was sent away to be calibrated AFTER it was showing it was miss focusing in real life situations.

I don't micro adjust, that require a focus chart, which I do not have.
 
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The 35L was sent away to be calibrated AFTER it was showing it was miss focusing.

I don't micro adjust, that require a focus chart, which I do not have.

I wouldn't MA either given the choice, just the Op hasn't actually taken any pictures where you can clearly see the AF point, hence he needs to do a controlled focus test of some description, preferably one that will show either front or back focus, rather than just "it's a little soft".
 
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