Coloured tubing or mayhem dye?

GoogalyMoogaly

GoogalyMoogaly

GoogalyMoogaly

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Right so I'm in the process of rebuilding my watercooling system. again.
If I don't get it working as I want (cool and quiet) this time I'm giving up! (well, in theory)

Anyway, after I mentioned in one of rjkoneill's threads that I had been put of using coloured fluids in case it stained my blocks he seemed to get quite annoyed...
So I'm taking this to mean that coloured fluids wont stain blocks/radiators/reservoirs!

So I'm now wondering if I should go with my original idea of using coloured TFC tubing or if I should use the clear Masterkleer tubing and get some Mayhem dye (not the pre-mix)?
The Masterkleer tubing does seem more flexible, but I'm not sure if either tubing is better quality than the other.

I'm rebuilding the loop in a HAF 932 which will be sat under a desk, so it's not really gonna be visible except through the bay-res, but that has a blue LED anyway (I'd be getting blue dye)..

Thanks.
 
The only trouble is if your using clear water and coloured tubing is that if your res/blocks are clear, in my opion the blocks and res ect donto look as nice
 
Lets be honest. Do you really care who sees it? If yes, add the dye and check in a few months time. Otherwise just do as previously and use kill coils.
 
I do find it worroying, that you put your faith in a product, ie iether a dye or a pre mix and you see reports of it staining or clunking up or debrey floating around. i know you can put it in wrong, when you manualy mix (ie put to much in ect) but still, if ther eis room forhuman error why are the pre mixed so exspensive ?
 
Go for coloured tubing. I used to have black tubing and it looked great. After rebuilding my loop, it's now a greyish silver tubing im using, not as good but still looks fine. Only the res and a small section of tube in the feed in line to monitor water lvels are clear tubing.

The main problem with clear tubing is its tendency to cloud/stain fairly quickly and that looks horrible.
 
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Im pretty new to watercooling so I can't give you as good advise as others on here but how I understand it is that coloured dye probably WILL stain your blocks and whatnot but its pretty easy to clean it off. Apparantly using vinegar and hot water gets rid of the staining (ive even heard of just hot water. For the rad at least!).

Obviously the bonus with coloured tubing is that you can run your machine on DI water which is apparantly the best cooling method out there.

On the other hand you probably wont get anywhere near as good a look as using coloured fluid.

Im bit of an aesthetic freak so I went with clear tubing and coloured fluid (purple. Took me bloody ages to find a decent UV reactive purple!).

Its worth noting that not all fluids are very good with how their colouring reacts. Lighter colours will most definately always get the best results. The most common colours being green (sometimes known as acid green), red (blood red) and blue. These are most common because they all look pretty cool and they light up amazingly.

The darker the colour tone the less likely you are to get a good illumination.

Im a bit curious as to why your watercooling would be noisy though. The only thing I can hear when using my PC are my fans that cool the radiator, exhaust of the chassis and my 2 graphics cards (im soon to put them into the loop).

I hope ive helped a little with some of this!
 
Emjay86 said:
Im a bit curious as to why your watercooling would be noisy though. The only thing I can hear when using my PC are my fans that cool the radiator, exhaust of the chassis and my 2 graphics cards (im soon to put them into the loop).
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's mostly the fans on the rads that I can hear and sometimes the pump when it speeds up (MCP35X PWM pump).

But people keep talking about their watercooled PCs being silent and I'm a long way from that. Running my Akasa Vipers at around 1300rpm and the pump running at around 3000rpm is pretty quiet, but once you start doing anything it's not great at keeping things cool (My CPU reaches low-mid 40s under load and my graphics hit around 50ºC with fans at those speeds, but the pump is usually running at 4500rpm then which makes it louder than my fans).
 
GoogalyMoogaly said:
Anyway, after I mentioned in one of rjkoneill's threads that I had been put of using coloured fluids in case it stained my blocks he seemed to get quite annoyed...
Click to expand...

not at all.
its another case of a report on the internet becoming gospel.
when in actual fact it is totally false.
everyone seems to be part of this mindset that using any form of colour in your coolant causes debris/deposits and stains blocks.

in the real world, only certain brands of premix with biocides [feser are a prime example] causes slime/debris build ups and as mlwood has said many times, correct maintenance stops dyes from staining.

premix fluids contain a nice amount of colouring that gives a vibrant colour but doesn't risk overdoing it on the dye.

coloured tubing looks ok but doesn't beat clear tubing and coloured coolant from an aesthetic point of view in my opinion.

the way to look at it is how much maintenance you want to do.
if you cant be fussed with flushing your loop etc, then its easier to just use distilled and get the coloured look from coloured tubing. but if aesthetics are important and you don't mind spending a maximum of an hour within a twelve month period flushing your loop then go for a coloured coolant.

my only recommendation would be a premix over a dye
 
Pre-mix is more expensive for several reasons and the biggest reason is weight. All so considering the amount of effort that goes into me making it its not that much.

Then you have these facts

1) We create the whole pre-mix from the ground up
2) We use Ultra Pure H20 that i make
3) We make the dyes and then mix then then add them to the mix
4) We then add accurate amount of Biocides and inhibitors
5) Then it all bottled up in clean food safe bottles, with a child safety cap and a Spout.
6) then its labelled up and then boxed up
7) this is tested and checked from start to finish and any thing not up to standard gets binned.

All for £1.25 profit ... So is it really that expensive. I don't think so.

Oh and im here to support you 100% if you have any question and any problems..

It doesn't matter if you spend £2.50 with us or £1000 we still treat you the same and back you up :).

oh and all our product are human and animal safe 100% .. just ask our testers ....

lol2li.jpg


Last but not least were British and all our products are made and produced in the UK ... Whoot ...
 
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mlwood37 said:
Pre-mix is more expensive for several reasons and the biggest reason is weight. All so considering the amount of effort that goes into me making it its not that much.

Then you have these facts

1) We create the whole pre-mix from the ground up
2) We use Ultra Pure H20 that i make
3) We make the dyes and then mix then then add them to the mix
4) We then add accurate amount of Biocides and inhibitors
5) Then it all bottled up in clean food safe bottles, with a child safety cap and a Spout.
6) then its labelled up and then boxed up
7) this is tested and checked from start to finish and any thing not up to standard gets binned.

All for £1.25 profit ... So is it really that expensive. I don't think so.

Oh and im here to support you 100% if you have any question and any problems..

It doesn't matter if you spend £2.50 with us or £1000 we still treat you the same and back you up :).

oh and all our product are human and animal safe 100% .. just ask our testers ....

lol2li.jpg
Click to expand...


So much lol's.
Poor Steven.
Mlwood, are you THE actual Mayhems guy?
 
rjkoneill said:
in the real world, only certain brands of premix with biocides [feser are a prime example] causes slime/debris build ups and as mlwood has said many times, correct maintenance stops dyes from staining.
Click to expand...

Ah, that'll explain the sludge in my res, bloody Feser inhibitor!

I definitely plan on getting the Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 in the future. Would be nice if OcUK would stock the 5L bottles though.

I've decided to re-do my loop with clear tubing this time, just in case I decide to go with a coloured coolant in the future. Currently just running Feser's Bi-Distilled water in it, but at least I'll have the option.
 
feser is terrible. I wish that it would become widespread knowledge but I'm here to educate.

I'm not stocking the 5 litre bottles, postage would be horrific.
 
Feser's water is ok though right?

How wrong can they get Distilled water?

I guess once a loop is up and running an the user is happy then you don't need a lot of water at any one time. It's just for me I've redone my loop 3 or 4 times in the last 12 months (and I've come to the conclusion it's probably better to watercool Intel chips rather than AMD ones).
 
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