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1055T 95w

jackboy

jackboy

jackboy

Associate
Joined
9 Dec 2009
Posts
386
So currently I have a Athlon II 630.

My PC is used for general use, photo/video storage, occasional gaming and I may do video editing in the future.
On top of this I run World Community Grid, cancer related projects......not to level the enthusiasts do but I do want to do my bit.

I was planning of going BD for the 8 cores but that dream has burst mainly due to the performance versus the X6's and power consumption......I only have a AM3 MB.

So I was going to buy an 1090T but I was wondering for my uses would I be better off with the 1055T 95w.

My question is assuming all things being equal if I was to OC both of these to 3.5Ghz would the 95w version use less power and does anyone know by how much.

With these chips heading towards EOL I expect I will need to be quick.

Opinions?
 
Grab the 1090T, the unlocked multi just makes things so much easier.

As for power draw, if they are both running the same clockspeed, the power draw will be dependant on how much voltage you have to use to achieve said clockspeed.

If both 1090T and 1055T require say 1.35V to do 3.6GHz they'll both use the exact same amount of power.
 
I've just ordered a 2nd hand 1055T 95w and an asus sabretooth board of MM so I'll let you know my results - I'm hoping to get to 4Ghz with a bit of luck :)
 
jackboy said:
Hex

Thanks

What voltage do you use to get your 1100T to 3.8Ghz..........my Athlon needs 1.45v to get to 3.4Ghz.
Click to expand...

I can get 3.7Ghz on stock volts (1.325V), 3.8GHz needs 1.375V. I've not actually got round to trying higher with it yet :o
 
I've just ordered a 2nd hand 1055T 95w and an asus sabretooth board of MM so I'll let you know my results - I'm hoping to get to 4Ghz with a bit of luck
Click to expand...

jennidc

If you could tell me what volts you need to get to 3.7 or 3.8 that would allow me to compare to Hex......I know this is not and exact science but it will give me an idea......

If you could say what the wattage is in HWMonitor that would be even better.

Thanks
 
Start at 250x14, 1.45v, LLC on, turbo off, C&Q on - test, up the FSB by a a little and retest until you hit you hit the desired clock, then see if any volts can be shaved. On my Asus board for some reason you cannot use absolute values for volts with Cool and Quiet enabled, just offsets

Remember the 95w 1055t have a slightly higher temp threshold (72c iirc). Mine does 3.5GHz at 1.2v and 4GHz with 1.42v. Personally I find the extra volts not worth it as I value my silence. The 120mm fan on my Tuniq 120 idles at ~500rpm (1GHz C&Q) and is at about 700 while gaming (top speed 1500rpm)
 
Thanks db that sounds good advise - when I've read about overclocking AM3 chips there has been mentioned overclocking the northbridge - what does this do in terms of performance and what should I be aiming for.

Love my Tuniq 120 - I'm leaving that on my old quad though and having a Gellid Tranquillo for AM3
 
jennidc said:
Thanks db that sounds good advise - when I've read about overclocking AM3 chips there has been mentioned overclocking the northbridge - what does this do in terms of performance and what should I be aiming for.

Love my Tuniq 120 - I'm leaving that on my old quad though and having a Gellid Tranquillo for AM3
Click to expand...

If you overclock the bus to 250 as suggested, this will raise the NB from 2000MHz to 2500MHz automatically unless you change the multiplier / divider.

Mine 1055T (125w)
Gigabyte 890 main board
CPU 14 x 250 = 3.5GHz at 1.375V (1.344V in CPUz)
Mem 6.66 x 250 = 1667MHz at 1.6V (8Gb 12800 1600MHz)
HT and NB 10 x 250 = 2500MHz
all volts auto unless noted.
Idle temps ~30C full prime max heat 55C
TRUE 120 extreme with two fans
 
As above, your NB will be at 2500MHz, which should be fine on stock volts with that board you have (though you can, and it is advisable to drop the NB multi down to keep the NB at stock 2000MHz to rule out board stability when finding CPU maximums) and your RAM will likely bee at 1666MHz, which again should be fine on stock. You can drop this down below 1600 (I forget the steps)

Clock the CPU first, find what you are happy with and then up the NB/HT. Got both of them at 2500 myself
 
Thanks for the advice all of my bits arrived this afternoon and I'm pleased to report it booted first time and even recognised all of my drives. Seems to be running at 27 degrees in the BIOS. Leaving the Gelid TIM to set for a few hours before I try and push it later - might just go for mild OCing tonight once Windows is installed.

Here is my cable nightmare - the PSU fan and mains only just reach
http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq204/jenno_d/IMG_20111103_184357.jpg

New stickers!!
http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq204/jenno_d/IMG_20111103_113200.jpg
 
I've still got to fit 2 new Antec tri switch 120mm fans in the drive bays which will hopefully keep everything nice and cool
 
Cheers Gashman - I'll probably order some extensions at some point if I can be bothered.
Luckily my case doesn't have a window so I can just close the lid and forget about it :)

Anyway news on the overclocking front the good news is that my chip has successfully reached 4Ghz the bad news is it needs 1.5 volts to do it.

Temps are very good though that Gellid Tranquillo is a little gem.

My current settings are:...
Core Speed 4003.4 Mhz
V Core 1.5
Temp 55 degrees
CPU Multi 14
Bus Speed 286
Northbridge locked @ 255

The Sabretooth board is amazing so many options its unreal.

I have set the LLC stuff to extreme so there is no vdroop.

Although I could probably push a bit more I'm happy with that.

For 24x7 use I will probably have a play when I have more time to see what the highest I can do at a lower voltage (eg 3.8Ghz @ 1.4)

Very happy with my new system - should keep me uptodate for another 3 years at least especially if more games go the multithread route.
 
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