Big Bike Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
matt_fsr said:
Could do with some advice please - I'm thinking of upgrading the fork on my Specialized Pitch Comp 2010, although the travel is now lovely and buttery smooth, its too soft for me.

So what I want is a fork that has 140/150/160mm travel, 1" 1/8th steerer tube, Maxle and is around £250-300 - ideally in the sale!

Can anyone recommend a good such fork? Air would be a bonus, as it'd avoid me ending up with the same issues this fork currently has. (Pike 327, if anyone cares... or wants one)

Oh, and silver stanchions are a complete no. Just, dont even go there.
Click to expand...

Rockshox Sektor R £250 from Merlin. Or secondhand Rockshox Revelation, awesome forks for the money
 
ichabod crane said:
I think his pitch would be better suited to a 160mm fork.
Click to expand...

I think it would be nice with a 160mm too. Just, I have a workmate who has a Pitch with 150mm revs on and it handled really well during the 10 minute test I had. Depends what type of riding you mainly do I suppose, and you can always get u-turn or 2step forks.
 
Andelusion said:
Matt I have a Lyrik 2 step air I'm thinking of selling if that sounds like what you're after?
Click to expand...

Could be very tempted. Drop me an email via trust, with details pls :)


Oh, and gggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr *********** Avid juicy brakes, how hard can it be to change some pads over?

Clearly, harder than is designed for mere mortals. Yes, everyone on the internet can post videos about how their pads just drop in and 'click' - but mine wont. Eventually hammered them in, thought job done.... nope, the brakes now only go on... and stay on. I've probably ruined them.
 
matt_fsr said:
Oh, and gggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr *********** Avid juicy brakes, how hard can it be to change some pads over?

Clearly, harder than is designed for mere mortals. Yes, everyone on the internet can post videos about how their pads just drop in and 'click' - but mine wont. Eventually hammered them in, thought job done.... nope, the brakes now only go on... and stay on. I've probably ruined them.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you pressed the lever when the wheel was off. The pistons will now be out of place. If the pads are definitely seated you can try pumping the lever with the wheel in, or spread them apart using a plastic tyre lever. Otherwise take the pads back out and reseat the pistons with the tyre lever after making sure fluid isn't escaping from the seals.
 
mistercrabb said:
Sounds like you pressed the lever when the wheel was off. The pistons will now be out of place. If the pads are definitely seated you can try pumping the lever with the wheel in, or spread them apart using a plastic tyre lever. Otherwise take the pads back out and reseat the pistons with the tyre lever after making sure fluid isn't escaping from the seals.
Click to expand...

I think they're securely in now, I did use a big flat bladed driver to push them back. Only trouble is now they're in, they're pressing fairly hard onto the disc, and don't seem to want to self-level.

Any tips? :)
 
Make sure the disc is centered in the caliper. The proper way to do this is by first pushing the pistons back in all the way and then loosening the caliper and aligning it by hand, sight down so you can see the disc and don't focus on the pads. Once you've done this then you can check if the pads are contacting the disc both at the same time. This procedure works for Hope brakes anyway :) check their how to vids.

lll message you about the Lyriks tomorrow as I'm on my phone now.
 
Juicys were the bane of my life.. I had a nightmare changing the pads with them and getting them set up, ended up getting a bleed kit and doing a proper bleed on them to get them working properly!

Then I got rid of them and bought Hopes! :)
 
Some Carbon goodies for you Intense boys!

1326799062930-1r9ekde72yk4f-800-75.jpg


1326799302155-1f2j8clbg3tbr-800-75.jpg


http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/intense-carbon-sl-first-look-32951
 
janesssssy said:
Went out tonight for 2.5 hours. First time using my new light.

So tonight I had:

MJ872 on the bars - 1200 lumen.
MJ808 on the helmet 900 lumen.

Atomic darkness-****er or Nuclear reactor powered lights. Just F'ing awesome.
Click to expand...

going way back but - did you get the standard battery for the MJ872??
 
matt_fsr said:
I think they're securely in now, I did use a big flat bladed driver to push them back. Only trouble is now they're in, they're pressing fairly hard onto the disc, and don't seem to want to self-level.

Any tips? :)
Click to expand...

Just pump the lever really hard for a while (with the rotor in place of course), if that doesn't work I would take the pads back out and try to reseat the pistons with the screwdriver.

From my experience, if the pistons won't go back in they have probably seized with dirt. The best way to fix is to clean them with the appropriate brake fluid while gently pushing them in and out with the brake lever and screwdriver.
 
I was bored in work this morning so thought I'd do something productive with my time and looked into going tubeless on my bike. I've been looking at options for hubs and rims etc as I fancy burning a bit of cash and the Hope Pro 2 hubs with Stans rims seem to be the way to go. Has anyone got any opinions on the Flows or Arch EX rims? I think the Flows would probably be a bit much for the type of riding I do and the new Arch EX seem to be a nice balance between strength and weight but I can't find much other info about them!
 
Last edited:
I have flows with pro 2 hubs and they're been great. I can't comment on the Arch's but the flows are hardly heavy. I don't know what sort of riding you do but if you like to run burly tires (2.35 or larger) then going for a nice wide rim like the flow is a good idea to get the most out of the tire.

Mine are set up tubeless with the stans yellow tape and valve stems. I've used non tubeless tires in them and they've sealed fine with sealant (Kenda Nevegal and Excavator tires) I'm currently running a Maxxis LUST Ignitor on the rear which obviously sealed up instantly.

The tires took a while to seal (if you go down the non-tubeless tire route then make sure you watch the stans installation video) but once sealed they've been ace.
 
mistercrabb said:
The best way to fix is to clean them with the appropriate brake fluid while gently pushing them in and out with the brake lever and screwdriver.
Click to expand...

I use a tyre lever instead of a screwdriver. It's a bit harder to do but less chance of damaging a piston.
 
Andelusion said:
I have flows with pro 2 hubs and they're been great. I can't comment on the Arch's but the flows are hardly heavy. I don't know what sort of riding you do but if you like to run burly tires (2.35 or larger) then going for a nice wide rim like the flow is a good idea to get the most out of the tire.

Mine are set up tubeless with the stans yellow tape and valve stems. I've used non tubeless tires in them and they've sealed fine with sealant (Kenda Nevegal and Excavator tires) I'm currently running a Maxxis LUST Ignitor on the rear which obviously sealed up instantly.

The tires took a while to seal (if you go down the non-tubeless tire route then make sure you watch the stans installation video) but once sealed they've been ace.
Click to expand...

I generally run 2.25 Nobby Nics and ride around Wales, Peaks, Gisburn etc, mainly cross country type riding I suppose and I probably only weigh about 180lbs kitted up. The new Arch EX is supposedly lighter, wider and stronger than the old Arch and is not much thinner than the Flow but it is a fair bit lighter! Problem is, as they're new no one has written anything about them!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom