Loop won't bleed?

but when I turn off my pc after a while at the top of the loop where my tubing loops from my cpu to my res there is air there between the cpu and the res, but when I start up my pc it goes away, but when I switch it off again it comes back, anyone have any advice?

If this is the system you link in your sig with the orange coolant, then looking at the type of tube res you have there, you will ALWAYS get air rising up into the loop of tube between the res and cpu when you switch the machine off. Any air in the res will naturally rise up into this bit of tube, and will go when the pump starts. Depending on how powerfull the pump is you could end up with air being drawn fully into the loop and sent round and round. Sounds like this is what you have going on.

It is difficult to set up a tube res like that one with an inlet in the top port, you should really have used the bottom ports for inlet and outlet. To use the res like this you have to get every last scrap of air out through which ever port you used to fill, or bleed screw of the rad if it has one. How did you actually go about filling this loop btw? Does it have a second port in the top?

The EK advanced res allows you to use the top as an inlet because it has a small extra internal tube in the res to allow air to become trapped in the res as it should, but that res doesn't appear to have this.

Anyway, this is why you are not able to get the air to bleed out.
 
+1 to bubo's post

i circumvented this by using both bottom ports on my res and keeping the top ports as fill ports only.

thats why with EK res you get 3 tubes to place in if your using bottom outlet and top inlet, the air flows down the plastic tube and rises into the res so it can;t escape back into the loop when u turn it off
 
I put the pc on the side and filled it with one of the bottom ports, how would I get the air out then?
 
just had the idea of turning the loop upside down, and filling it with some more liquid through the bottom port of the res, obviously I'd take my graphics card out first :p, in order to get the air out of the loop, what do you guys think?
 
lol you've already been given the correct advise.

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1) dont feed the res via the top
2) turn you rad arround

Pastel is harder to get air out than normal X1 due to its chemical make up. Its has suspendants in that will trap air in the liquid. if your system is not set up correctly for easy bleeding then it will become a lot harder to bleed the system.

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Your system looks asceticly eye pleasing how ever you have compromised this because your system will not bleed correctly.
 
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I wish I had troll.jpeg for mlwood37's "cpu b4 pump" in the pic above LOL

BTW you don't absolutely need to turn the rad the other way up. Yes it makes bleeding slightly easier when you have the case upright, but then you can always turn the case upside down when bleeding, as long as you ensure you don't starve the pump of fluid while doing this.
 
I shook the **** out of mine in all directions when I fitted my GPU block and then opened the fill port of my res with the pump running, seemed to do the trick for me.
 
If this is the system you link in your sig with the orange coolant, then looking at the type of tube res you have there, you will ALWAYS get air rising up into the loop of tube between the res and cpu when you switch the machine off. Any air in the res will naturally rise up into this bit of tube, and will go when the pump starts. Depending on how powerfull the pump is you could end up with air being drawn fully into the loop and sent round and round. Sounds like this is what you have going on.

your res should have an input tube (a tube that points into the res a bit)

if you ensure that the level of water is above the input tube then you wont get air running back into the system when you power it off


also...

I managed to get the air out of my CPU block and other little niggly parts by squeezing the tube and releasing very quickly while the loop was running. This increases the pressure in the loop so be careful when doing this (do it during leak testing etc)
 
your res should have an input tube (a tube that points into the res a bit)

His res doesn't have this though, there is a pic of it in his build thread, click his sig pic. It also doesn't have a two port top, which is also required for the input tube thing to work as intended, i.e. the EK advanced res. They way he has the loop at the moment it will be impossible to bleed, there is no way round it other than re-doing the loop.
 
I cant really load up a thread full of pics at work atm.. is his res deffo the right way around? which res is it?
 
His res doesn't have this though, there is a pic of it in his build thread, click his sig pic. It also doesn't have a two port top, which is also required for the input tube thing to work as intended, i.e. the EK advanced res. They way he has the loop at the moment it will be impossible to bleed, there is no way round it other than re-doing the loop.

+1 again , he needs to just change his loop or get a tube res with 2 ports at the top
 
I cant really load up a thread full of pics at work atm.. is his res deffo the right way around? which res is it?

It looks like a Phobya Balancer nickel. I've found this res on another site and ironicly, by the looks of it, if he turned it upside down he should actually be able to use it as he has it now with a top inlet and bottom outlet. It has 4 ports in the "thick" end and 1 in the "thin" end. Thick end is usually meant to be at the bottom. But if he turns it round and uses one of the side ports in the thick end as the inlet, and uses one of the end ports as the fill line, he will eventually be able to completely bleed the system and it will look pretty much like it does at the moment. Best advice however is still to arrange the loop with both inelt and outlet at the bottom.
 
why not just go in 1 port at the large bottom end and come out another port in the bottom, that way he would completely eliminate breaking the surface of the coolant and allow bubbles to displace and he could bleed it from being setup like that?
 
at the highest point which will either be ur top up or resevoir or if u have a resevoir lower than ur pump ( but only do it one at a time ) while its running slowly back of one of the fill ports or if u have a resevoir separate from ur header or normal fill port as in a cylinder type tank slowly open oneun till hear it hiss with air escaping being mindfull that u should replace the volume of air lost with water bit by bit and u will gradually bleed the system .. if you get pockets of air trapped then like others have said move it around while fully sealed to move the air upwards in the system and bleed it from the top. normally pumps like to be primed. with positive head pressure before being fired up so its a good idea to do this with a negative pressure as well as when pump is running tbh ...

hopefully u get what i mean....
 
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