Road Cycling Essentials

[Jonny ///M]

You could try an APR?
Easier to start with than a full on road race, but just as much fun.

Aye I do like the sound of an APR. First hurdle is going out with the slow bunch round the 60 mile route this summer. Once I can hang on the back of that I'll think about doing other things.


With frame sizing it's best to just check each manufacturers geometry. A 53cm compact could be as long as a 56cm etc.

 

[Hamster]

Quick one for you Jonny ///M. I've got the Boardman hybrid pro with the Elixir 5 brakes. I'm finding that the brakes are noisy and juddering. Once I've cleaned the rotor and pads with disc brake cleaner, they're OK for a while then it starts up again. The problem has been there since I bought the bike around 6 months ago. Any ideas what the problem may be?

 

[Jonny ///M]

Quick one for you Jonny ///M. I've got the Boardman hybrid pro with the Elixir 5 brakes. I'm finding that the brakes are noisy and juddering. Once I've cleaned the rotor and pads with disc brake cleaner, they're OK for a while then it starts up again. The problem has been there since I bought the bike around 6 months ago. Any ideas what the problem may be?

Is it like a train horn when trying to stop? Even if you've cleaned the pads up they may still be ruined. If they aren't alligned perfectly they can make some noise too. Does the wheel spin free?

I'd try cleaning the disc and changing the pads anyway for the price of them.

Most of the time that's what sorts it with me anyway. Always get the brakes in with no fluid at all in them and the customer has never touched them,allegedly,..pads can look ok but once I bleed them and take it a test ride it's that juddering you describe. I ruined pads before when I rode over a Cream Egg McFlurry

 

[touch]

I ruined pads before when I rode over a Cream Egg McFlurry

Haha, choked on my lemonade

 

[Hamster]

Thanks for replying Jonny

Is it like a train horn when trying to stop?

It's a bit like that. It also feels like the brakes have ABS!!

Even if you've cleaned the pads up they may still be ruined. If they aren't alligned perfectly they can make some noise too. Does the wheel spin free?

I'd try cleaning the disc and changing the pads anyway for the price of them.

Wheels spin freely. Rotors also look true and consistent gap. Will check the pads but will buy some more anyway. Any recommendations for decent pads?

Most of the time that's what sorts it with me anyway. Always get the brakes in with no fluid at all in them and the customer has never touched them,allegedly,..pads can look ok but once I bleed them and take it a test ride it's that juddering you describe.

Brakes haven't been touched, not be my anyway!! It's also happening with both front and rear. Will get a bleed kit though as I'll need one at some stage anyway. Hydraulic brakes aren't something I normally touch; I leave that to someone else but will have to learn at some point so that may as well be now!!

I ruined pads before when I rode over a Cream Egg McFlurry

Eggcelent Plenty of those on the high street in town....must avoid!!

 

[Jonny ///M]

If the wheels spin freely,everything is lined up good,all bolts are tight and they have a solid feel to the lever then pads is all I can think of. Have you had loads of heat into them at all? I ruined my hayes 9 front pads stopping me and my 15 stone mate going downhill due to the amount of heat. I don't remember if they made a lot of noise though.

Usually I see avids with no fluid at all that had a visit from the bike fairy or I see extremely corroded brakes where the pistons don't retract properly. Anything to do with making noise is generally sorted by pads.

We tend to use Jagwire red,Clarks or shimano pads. Avid pads seem to be quite a bit more expensive but I can't see why. Superstar pads are cheap but I've never ridden any but fitted a few sets.

Bleeding the Avids is really easy once you get your head around the fact you bleed the caliper,the hose and the lever seperately.

 

[Hamster]

If the wheels spin freely,everything is lined up good,all bolts are tight and they have a solid feel to the lever then pads is all I can think of. Have you had loads of heat into them at all? I ruined my hayes 9 front pads stopping me and my 15 stone mate going downhill due to the amount of heat. I don't remember if they made a lot of noise though.

Usually I see avids with no fluid at all that had a visit from the bike fairy or I see extremely corroded brakes where the pistons don't retract properly. Anything to do with making noise is generally sorted by pads.

We tend to use Jagwire red,Clarks or shimano pads. Avid pads seem to be quite a bit more expensive but I can't see why. Superstar pads are cheap but I've never ridden any but fitted a few sets.

Bleeding the Avids is really easy once you get your head around the fact you bleed the caliper,the hose and the lever seperately.

Cheers. I'll get some stuff ordered and read up on bleeding the Avids. I'll also give the bike a good going over. Another problem I had with the bike is creaking from the BB area. Finally got a BB30 kit which were out of stock at Madisons for ages so I'll be checking the bearings, packing that with grease and sorting out that problem too.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Are you changing the bearings? The tool *should* knock them out and be able to re use them. Are you 100% it's the BB and not the bottle cage bolts,mech hanger,stem or the saddle?

On both bikes I've had in the stand with creaking BB30 have been cured by cleaning the regreasing. Both cannondale caad 8s, one had a lot of swarf stuck down then getting moved around. The one with loads of metal in it was quiet a lot of the time and very loud the other. I took it a 5 mile test ride during the summer and couldn't get it to creak.

I heard through Kieranv about a memo from Halfords saying a lot of them weren't fitted properly from the factory and needed reseated using a 40mm socket...maybe yours was one of them?

Waiting for a front Ultegra caliper from Madison and a Prologo zero ti saddle from zyro to get this thing finished.

 

[Hamster]

Are you changing the bearings? The tool *should* knock them out and be able to re use them. Are you 100% it's the BB and not the bottle cage bolts,mech hanger,stem or the saddle?

On both bikes I've had in the stand with creaking BB30 have been cured by cleaning the regreasing. Both cannondale caad 8s, one had a lot of swarf stuck down then getting moved around. The one with loads of metal in it was quiet a lot of the time and very loud the other. I took it a 5 mile test ride during the summer and couldn't get it to creak.

I heard through Kieranv about a memo from Halfords saying a lot of them weren't fitted properly from the factory and needed reseated using a 40mm socket...maybe yours was one of them?

100% sure it's the bottom bracket. I meticulously checked everything else and had the bike on a stand. I know what you mean about other bolts though; many a loose bolt sound like a creaking BB!!

Not sure if I'll need to change the bearings. I'll check them once I've got them out but I also think a clean and a regrease will sort it out. The BB30 kit came with the necessary bushings for the headset press so I'll use that to get them back on nicely. Will let you know how I get on.

Lovely bike you've got hanging up there

 

[Jonny ///M]

100% sure it's the bottom bracket. I meticulously checked everything else and had the bike on a stand. I know what you mean about other bolts though; many a loose bolt sound like a creaking BB!!

Not sure if I'll need to change the bearings. I'll check them once I've got them out but I also think a clean and a regrease will sort it out. The BB30 kit came with the necessary bushings for the headset press so I'll use that to get them back on nicely. Will let you know how I get on.

Lovely bike you've got hanging up there

The tool makes it so easy. We had an F3 come in with BB30 issues and thankfully it was a mate of my boss.

Hammer and screwdriver saw the old ones out which were rough as **** after a week. Some sort of washer bodge + press to fit the new ceramic sram ones. I was glad when the tool became available again. Have fun and remember the wavy washer.

 

[Hamster]

The tool makes it so easy. We had an F3 come in with BB30 issues and thankfully it was a mate of my boss.

Hammer and screwdriver saw the old ones out which were rough as **** after a week. Some sort of washer bodge + press to fit the new ceramic sram ones. I was glad when the tool became available again. Have fun and remember the wavy washer.

Little while back I took the cranks off to have a little look, noticed that wavy washer and thought "WTF?" Then someone told me it's supposed to be like that!

 

[Jonny69]

So to sum up my experience yesterday. 60k total distance, approx 1.5 hours each way which felt like an age for that distance. The route is too hilly and there are too many hazards (in terms of traffic and dangerous road layouts) to do it every day. I think if it was flatter and less hazardous I might do it more, but as it stands I'd only consider doing it once a week max.

In terms of kit I'd need padded shorts, no question. I'd also consider changing to cleats rather than the old cage-type toeclips. My feet were flipping freezing as well. I know it got cold yesterday evening, but I had awful chilblains when I got in. And a stiff neck, so I'd pick a bike with more relaxed geometry. The other things that show their head across that distance are the shape of the older brake hoods. I'd need to tilt the handlebars right up and think about moving the brakes down to make it more comfortable on my hands when riding on the tops of the bars. Bottle cage would have to go back on.

Nutrition starts to become a problem as well, for me anyway. I was eating all day yesterday and got hungry during my ride. I had dinner as soon as I got in and then a second dinner two hours later. Today I have mouth ulcers, so I've obviously used up my vitamin reserves.

 

[touch]

In terms of kit I'd need padded shorts, no question. I'd also consider changing to cleats rather than the old cage-type toeclips. My feet were flipping freezing as well.

Get some decent bibshorts. There was a big discussion a few pages back about shorts, some guys got some (Nalini?) bibs from planetx and gave them good reviews.

Also, if you can get youself some cycling shoes and clipless pedals that will solve both the other problems. You can use overshoes with clipless pedals which will keep your toes warm.

Nutrition starts to become a problem as well, for me anyway. I was eating all day yesterday and got hungry during my ride.

You need to eat before you feel hungry. It can be difficult to eat enough when your cycling because blood is diverted to keep your legs pumping and your stomache then finds it harder to digest things, making you feel ill if you eat too much. It's best to eat little and often. I usually eat bananas and fig rolls when i'm cycling (and sometimes energy bars as well) and have a packet of jelly incase i'm struggling and need a boost.

 

[Streeteh]

Get some decent bibshorts. There was a big discussion a few pages back about shorts, some guys got some (Nalini?) bibs from planetx and gave them good reviews.

I'm one of those that got the Nalini bib shorts from Planet X. They are indeed excellent and far better than the assorted padded shorts i've bought over the past few months. Given then price tag it's to be expected however!

These are the ones:

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CLNAPAS/nalini_palma_bib_shorts

I would buy another pair if i could afford them!

 

[PermaChanged]

Can someone help me find some decent bib shorts? Those ones on Planet X look good but the chest size is a bit to small for me on, I need a 40 inch waist but a 48 inch chest, their biggest is 42 waist, 44 chest.

Now that I've lost a fair bit of weight I need the padding and also the warmth of a tight fitting short.

 

[[DOD]Asprilla]

Don't worry about chest size for bibs. The most important measurement is back length but it's rarely used and no one actually measures theirs. Remember they are Lycra so they stretch.

 

[CooK1E]

Didn't notice this thread until the other day - am already about to purchase some bib shorts!

Can anyone recommend me some decent winter trye's for my road bike? The full slicks I've got at the moment are lethal!

 

[[DOD]Asprilla]

Didn't notice this thread until the other day - am already about to purchase some bib shorts!

Can anyone recommend me some decent winter trye's for my road bike? The full slicks I've got at the moment are lethal!

Slicks have more road contact on smooth surfaces than any other tyre and so you'll struggle to get anything better without putting ice spikes on. Smallest ice spikes I know in a 700c size are Schwalbe Marathon Winters which are 35mm so you need to make sure you have clearance for them.

Other than that, your best bet is to get a bigger slick. I've got both 25 and 28mm tyres to run when it's frosty. Fortunately it's pretty dry down here at the moment so I'm on the 25s.

 

[Jonny69]

You need to eat before you feel hungry. It can be difficult to eat enough when your cycling because blood is diverted to keep your legs pumping and your stomache then finds it harder to digest things, making you feel ill if you eat too much. It's best to eat little and often. I usually eat bananas and fig rolls when i'm cycling (and sometimes energy bars as well) and have a packet of jelly incase i'm struggling and need a boost.

I didn't eat enough before I left. If I do this again I'm going to have to bring a LOT more food into work

 

[touch]

I didn't eat enough before I left. If I do this again I'm going to have to bring a LOT more food into work

Try to eat when your cycling as well. You probably dont need to for a 1.5 hour ride but for longer rides you'll need to be eating whilst cycling.

Dont leave it until the KK to dicover that all those energy bars that you stuffed your pockets with actually make you feel sick and wish you'd taken something else. Find out what works for you beforehand. Also, there will be 3 food stops on the way round, which you should definately take advantage of, but dont rely on them. Take more food with you than you think you'll need. Its much worse to run out of energy miles away from the next stop than it is to carry a little bit of extra weight of food, even if you dont use it.