*NEW* HELP WITH ERROR!

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9 Nov 2010
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189
Hello guys, as you may know, my psu died, and the question is which parts did it take with it?

Firstly,
My Pc Setup : http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll132/grayus/IMG_1451.jpg
My Error : http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll132/grayus/IMG_1457.jpg

I have no idea what this error means.

So far, i have done a memtest (x2), and a memory diagnostic tool from boot, and everything appeard alright, so i guess its not the memory.

Graphics cards both seem fine.

I have swapped between the 'asus p8p67 pro' and the 'ASRock extreme7 gen3' motherboards, and they both have this error, and the ASRock was bought brand new on friday. So i guess theres nothing wrong with the brand new one, concluding there is nothing wrong with the old one.

Nothing wrong with my water cooling system. Fans still moving, and the liquid seems to be cooling fine. EDIT : "however, 1 issue has just occured to me, could i have the pump pressed down too tightly?"

Optical drive works, and reads.

Untested, and unknown how to test :

SSD (OVZ Agility 120 sata 3)
HDD (Some Western Digital)
CPU (i7 2600k)

Heres where i stand with things.
The i7 2600k had bclk overclocked to 106.00, aswell as 5ghz on a seperate occasion. So likely that it could be damaged.

A lot of forums say that a motherboard is anti surged, and all the components attached to it could and should be safe, e.g. cpu, gfx.

However, when i switched my button on the back of my PSU, the HDD+SDD are connected straight to it, and could be damaged. I have installed windwos twice onto the SSD, successfully, before it starts to crash.

The error is shows from the screenshot, my theories lie :

SSD Error with windows
and/or
HDD Error connected to motherboard.
CPU Slightly damaged due to mass overclock and PSU Frying.
Water cooling bracket too tightly screwed onto the CPU, which i will test right now, so if you have any past experiences of this, please tell, but ignore this as an option :)

All replies are much appreciated, i would rather many, even if the same, this problem has occured since wednesday, and i just want it solved.

Best Regards,
Sam :)
 
i wouldn't claim to be an expert, but i would say that your CPU is just very unstable. the base clock should be at 100 and untouched for stable overclocks. i would reset it back to stock settings. to test the cpu i would use prime 95 as it pushes it to 100% without going OTT.

I would also check each of the sticks of ram on their own and run a memtest without the other three in the system. Do this for each of the 4 sticks in turn and you should easily be ablt to tell which one, if any, is at fault.
 
As Roverno says, you really shouldn't be touching the Base Clock.

While you're tinkering in the BIOS ensure that your RAM speed, timings and voltage are correctly set.

If you're using an XMP profile, or setting everything manually, please ensure the DRAM voltage is manually set to ~1.5V.
 
Water cooling bracket too tightly screwed onto the CPU, which i will test right now, so if you have any past experiences of this, please tell, but ignore this as an option :)

Here:

+1, This was my problem on my X58 Sabertooth when my bios reported only 4 instead of 6 gigs of RAM, I loosened the CPU heatsink and it cured it.


And here:

Possibly an overtightened CPU cooler which can warp the motherboard/CPU socket.

It's very easy to overtighten the cooling block/pump on the H60 especially if it has the screws which can be tightened with a screwdriver rather then just by hand.

Try loosening the 4 screws a turn each.

Followed by this:

Worked fine. This should be stickied as it's one of those really odd issues which is kinda stupid as to why it doesn't work but such a simple fix sorts it.
 
I have reset everything, in the bios, i just mean, all this stuff is in the past, i dont do it anymore.

Any other ideas :D?

Not really, as far as i know the BSOD (blue screen of death) that you have received only really comes from CPU or RAM errors, so check them both out thoroughly and you should find the source.

Once you sorted, find a little guide on overclocking your cpu. It is easy to do but just has to be done properly :)
 
Everything has been set up properly, im just going to re-build it all outside the case, so things can be edited easy to find the solution,, im going to instal the basic intel heatsink, because that cant be added on to firmly, also just to add, i use thermal paste, and some is on the side of the cpu, can this be a problem? ive tried clearing as much as possible, and last question, my ram is dual channel, can it be run as 1 by 1 just to check the ram???
 
If its AS5 it is conductive, but the main metal section on the top of the cpu is just a heat spreader to help dissipate heat evenly across the silicon as much as possible. It is a problem if it goes any further so try to clean it if you can. Best thing for cleaning is some 99% isopropanol and coffee filters, easily bought for very little money.

Dual channel memory will be fine running as single sticks. Dual channel just means that is has certain optimisation that will help if run better in a pair.
 
Everything has been set up properly, im just going to re-build it all outside the case, so things can be edited easy to find the solution

Just make sure you put it on something non-conductive, like a cardboard box.

Don't put it on an anti-static bag.


i use thermal paste, and some is on the side of the cpu

As long as it's not on the contact pads on the bottom of the CPU, and hasn't got into the CPU socket, then it's fine.

But clean it off anyway.


my ram is dual channel, can it be run as 1 by 1 just to check the ram???

Yes.
 
Just make sure you put it on something non-conductive, like a cardboard box.

Don't put it on an anti-static bag.

Im not 100% on this, but i have it on good knowledge from an electronics specialist that it is better to use a conductive surface when working with fine electrical items such as ICs and CPU's. If you use a sheet of aluminium foil, any electric charge is dissipated in the foil and not concentrated to the small components. The foil is effectively big enough in comparison to the high risk components to act as an 'earth'. If the sheet is grounded, even better.
 
Im not 100% on this, but i have it on good knowledge from an electronics specialist that it is better to use a conductive surface when working with fine electrical items such as ICs and CPU's. If you use a sheet of aluminium foil, any electric charge is dissipated in the foil and not concentrated to the small components. The foil is effectively big enough in comparison to the high risk components to act as an 'earth'. If the sheet is grounded, even better.

I wouldn't know about that.

But you certainly don't want to be powering it up while it's sitting on a metal plate.

Why do you think you need to use standoffs when you put the motherboard in the case?
 
I wouldn't know about that.

But you certainly don't want to be powering it up while it's sitting on a big metal plate.

Why do you think you need to use standoffs when you put the motherboard in the case?

HAHA, I meant only when off! :D obviously when plugged in you want to only use the designated circuitry.
 
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