Big Bike Thread

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Gribs said:
Shimano ones tend to last longer than that if they're set up properly. I killed one in a couple of months by over tightening the preload but the one that replaced it lasted about 12 months. Supposedly the xtr ones are better sealed and last longer than the cheaper ones too. Hopes do look nice though and I'll probably get one once my Truvativ bb dies as there's not much choice and no one seems to discount the stock ones.
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I just gave the T2 some TLC and stripped out the M770 BB. 2nd or 3rd time in a year. On close inspection the drive side BB has no seal from the inside (behind the bearing cage). The non drive side had dirt ingress around the seals. I recon it has about 3 months of usage left in it, so about 13months usage which isn't too bad for me. :D

IIRC the M970 BB is identical to the M770 apart from the colour.

Gribs said:
I like them but the side walls are pretty weak unless you go for the snake skin version.
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I ripped a 2.2 Pacestar after about 2 rides - my own fault for using it on a local trail that is a rockfest. I have a TLR version that is even thinner and I'm too scared to use it. :eek: The UST version has a much thicker sidewall. I haven't used the cheaper ORC compound version but there are mixed opinions of it on here.
 
Mine, run tubeless on the rear, is an Evo 2.25. It's maked on the side as UST Tubeless too. It's been on for about 4 months now and used in the Lakes, Dales, Gisburn and Lee Quarry and has a couple of worrying bulges were the cords have been worn. In fact the cords are visible near enough all the way round. The 2.4 snake skin Fat Albert on the front still looks brand new even though it's a couple of months older. As soon as it's a bit less muddy the original 2.4 nobby nic is going back on the back.

For reference I've only ever destroyed one tyre before and that was a day old Fire xc pro that I ripped the sidewall out of on Skye.
 
I have the EVO Snakeskins and have had no problems, used them round Wigan, Llandegla and Gisburn.

Only picked up one pinch flat from being too heavy on the bike, even then it was a very small hole and I got to the end of my ride OK.
 
Looking for a bit of bike advice.

I've got a 2011 Stumpjumper hardtail, which I love to bits. But I've been very tempted lately to get a full suspension bike, as I think it'll be better suited to the majority of riding I do. Tough forest trails and some downhill.

The way I see it, Ive got two options: Buy a full sus frame and transfer the components over from my stumpy(if this is possible?), or just buy a new full sus bike and sell the stumpy ht.

Having both is possible but I don't really see me going back to a HT bike. I'm just a bit loathed to get rid of my stumpy HT as its such a nice bike.

Thoughts? Also if a new frame is the best option, what is the best one for up to £1k?
 
spengos said:
Looking for a bit of bike advice.

I've got a 2011 Stumpjumper hardtail, which I love to bits. But I've been very tempted lately to get a full suspension bike, as I think it'll be better suited to the majority of riding I do. Tough forest trails and some downhill.

The way I see it, Ive got two options: Buy a full sus frame and transfer the components over from my stumpy(if this is possible?), or just buy a new full sus bike and sell the stumpy ht.

Having both is possible but I don't really see me going back to a HT bike. I'm just a bit loathed to get rid of my stumpy HT as its such a nice bike.

Thoughts? Also if a new frame is the best option, what is the best one for up to £1k?
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tbh it's up to you whether you swap the components over. personally i'd buy a full sus bike and have them both for me it works well , if i'm going for a 40mile+ ride i'll take the hardtail as it's a better allday rig,everything else i'll take the full sus.also won't you want longer travel forks for downhill? that sort of rules out swapping parts out as a decent frame will cost 1000 and decentish fork will cost 500-600, for 1600 you can get a decent full sus.
 
spengos said:
Yeah, having both would be ideal.

Any thoughts on the best one for under £2k?

This one caught my eye

Seems well specced. Don't know much about Giant though, or how well they compare. Would a stumpy FSR be better?
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you can't go wrong with giant or specialized, but for maximum value for money i'd go for a canyon if i were you i'd be looking for 140mm travel forks.
i recommend the canyon nerve am 7.0 but the lower model 6.0 would suffice.
 
spengos said:
Yeah, having both would be ideal.

Any thoughts on the best one for under £2k?

This one caught my eye

Seems well specced. Don't know much about Giant though, or how well they compare. Would a stumpy FSR be better?
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Trance's always seem to get good reviews but the number 1 bit of advice when you've got a large chunk of cash to spend on a bike is go and ride as many as you can. You seem to want a trail bike (anything with 140mm travel max will be in the ballpark), most bike shops stock a lot of Giant/Specialized/Trek bikes in this range so you should find it easy to get a few demo rides.
 
To add more confusion, I wouldn't always just go for a bike that's best specced, only in the situation where everything else is equal (i.e: I find both frames the same performance wise)
I'd much rather get the best frame I can buy, and upgrade bits n bops as needed/when needed.
 
Meh - changed my opinion drastically about the adjustment mechanism.
Hydraulic or nothing!

At first I was convinced that mechanical was the way to go, but after having tried a few of those (Specialized command etc) and owning a Reverb, the difference is astounding. Few products easily stand out as much as the reverb does above the competitors.
 
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