Road Cycling Essentials

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To Gary (eXist) my tyres have just been dropped on my desk, now want to get home to fit them then go for a spin.
I've also emailed a fitter and hopefull should be getting that done next week.
Not quite as shiny as a new stem but prob better incase I don't need it!
 
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Just researched and apparently my local bike shop have two qualified "B(ody)G(eometry) Fitters" which is the Specialized training course. Is bike fitting really worth the £120 + any extras required to fit right?
 
The chap I've found does a couple versions: a 3 hour one that is proper expensive and my 1 hour-ish one for bike sizing.
It costs as much as the stem I was looking at so if he says I need a diff stem to the one iwas gonna get then its paid for itself.
I also hope he'll help with the slight pain I've got in my thumbs.
 
With these bike fittings do they provide the stem or just recommend a stem length? I'm struggling to get it in my head what they'd actually do to your bike to make it fit you?!

Also, when you buy a new bike, how do you know it fits your previous bike fit geometry?
 
Lead_Head said:
With these bike fittings do they provide the stem or just recommend a stem length? I'm struggling to get it in my head what they'd actually do to your bike to make it fit you?!
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When i got fitted, they had a range of old stems hanging on a shelf. I didnt need to swap, but i assume that they would use one of their stems to get the fit right and then you could go off and buy one the same spec.
Lead_Head said:
Also, when you buy a new bike, how do you know it fits your previous bike fit geometry?
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They take a load of measurements of how your bike is setup. If you get a new bike you just dig out the list of measurements and set it up the same.
 
My bike fitting consisted of seat post height, saddle position, stem length, height and angle, handlebar width, shifter positioning, crank length recommendations, cleat adjustment (position and height) and shoe inserts to correct ankle angles.

The main output for me was identifying my ideal handlebar height, distance from bb centre to saddle and distance from saddle to handlebar centre. With these three measurements you should be able to identify whether any bike will fit you or not.

Next month I'm going to arrange a shoe fitting to get my cleats done again and sort out some custom footbeds.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;21668152 said:
With these three measurements you should be able to identify whether any bike will fit you or not.
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The only fixed point is the BB centre. The saddle and bars can be moved around and you should be able to keep them in the correct place in relation to each other on any bike (within reason).

As long as the 3 points of contact (bars, saddle, pedals) are in the same place, then it doesnt actually matter what the frame is like underneath you.

Obviously there is no point getting a really short frame and using a huge layback seatpost. I'm just making the point that as long as your new bike is roughly the same size, there is enough movement in the bars/saddle to account for any differences in geometry.
 
touch said:
I'm just making the point that as long as your new bike is roughly the same size, there is enough movement in the bars/saddle to account for any differences in geometry.
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Bar height can be an issue. I know you could use a lot of spacers or a stem with a large rise, but although most bikes can be made to fit, some are a much better fit than others.

I know I'm oddly proportioned, but it generally precludes me from having a square built steel frame as the saddle / bar drop end up being too great. I could fit on one, but I'd be rotated a long way forward around the BB. I'd also be putting more pressure on my hands than is really necessary.
 
ok I've reserved my bike
managed to get a sectur with SRAM Rival/Apex mix :D
just waiting for cyclescheme to come though on it (not saving much but tbh it's mostly the same as 12 months 0%)
all I need now are some lights and a lock!
any got any advise on some cheap ish (20-40 quid) lights and about the same for a lock that doesn't weigh a tonne?
was looking at the new yorker but it weighs way too much!
 
eXist just sold me some Pro 3s, which I've just finished fitting to a shiny clean bike. Will report back on how they feel tomorrow.
Should really clean the bike more often cos it was a mission to get her sparkly again.
Bit of a pain to get on being folding ones but now look good, once I've had the bike fitted I'll get some pics up. I reckon they should roll much better compared to my old ones if we just go by weight let alone compound.
 
Anyone here use a turbo trainer at all? Just picked up a bargain Tacx I-magic with the VR training videos. Just finished a 40 minute session on Sella Ronda in Italy. Seriously tough going but good fun.

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Hmmm tempted, would cost me ~£1800. Litespeed C1R with SRAM Force and Ksyrium Elite's. Currently on a carbon with SRAM force bike, but I've had it 4 years now.

c1r_force-zoom2.jpg
 
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It's very nice, but I'd immediately want changes -aero wheels, those K Elites really aren't a good match, different bars and stem...so more expense on top.

edit: Evans is the same 2011 frame but £1400, the whole bike would cost me £1800.
 
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