Big Bike Thread
- Thread starter Breamy
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Anyone have any workflow tips when using a GoPro etc? Want to use something that won't require Photoshop type knowledge to use.
Here's my first attempt and whilst the quality isn't terrible, I've probably done too many stages of compression. I used GoPro's Cineform Studio + Windows Movie Maker
As you may be able to tell I'm the XC/Singletrack type.
Here's my first attempt and whilst the quality isn't terrible, I've probably done too many stages of compression. I used GoPro's Cineform Studio + Windows Movie Maker
As you may be able to tell I'm the XC/Singletrack type.
Soldato
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Of course
Just set it the normal way but without any pressure in your shock so you can cycle it through the suspension travel. This way there's a finite length you can have your chain before it's literally too short, this is the correct length IMO.That video looks awfully dark and a little under saturated... it could be my works monitor thoughWhich GoPro is it?
Looks like a little dark on mine, but not too bad. There were some preset filters I could use for more light and saturation but were slightly OTT, I'll try to have a play with with the manual settings next time.
It's more what people are doing compression wise that I'd like to learn, GoPro 3 Black Edition.
Here's my first attempt and whilst the quality isn't terrible, I've probably done too many stages of compression. I used GoPro's Cineform Studio + Windows Movie Maker
Are you riding with your thumbs over the top of the bars?
Advice on gears for my Scott Spark 30
I've been going to grizedale and whinlatter a lot lately and never use the 3rd big ring. I'm also suffering from the chain jumping off either from the middle ring to granny or off from the granny ring.
I've been thinking about going to a 2x10 or if poss a 2x11 setup and a new derailleur with a clutch. Sometimes I feel I need an extra low gear when I'm struggling up hills. (although most of that is down to fitness)
Any suggestions
Edit:2x11 doesn't seem to exist
I've been going to grizedale and whinlatter a lot lately and never use the 3rd big ring. I'm also suffering from the chain jumping off either from the middle ring to granny or off from the granny ring.
I've been thinking about going to a 2x10 or if poss a 2x11 setup and a new derailleur with a clutch. Sometimes I feel I need an extra low gear when I'm struggling up hills. (although most of that is down to fitness)
Any suggestions
Edit:2x11 doesn't seem to exist
Last edited:
Are you riding with your thumbs over the top of the bars?
Haha yeah, not normally the case. Was using my dad's bike so I didn't adjust the levers. Decided being able to cover my brakes was more important on the way down.
Soldato
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anyone tried out zee stuff yet?
I have 1x9 /11-34 (all xt) at the moment, but want the extra range block (11-36) and a clutch mech
think ill grab zee rear mech / shifter
new xt 10 speed block and chain
wont be too much heavier / worse shifting from xt will it? type II worth it on the rear mech?
I have 1x9 /11-34 (all xt) at the moment, but want the extra range block (11-36) and a clutch mech
think ill grab zee rear mech / shifter
new xt 10 speed block and chain
wont be too much heavier / worse shifting from xt will it? type II worth it on the rear mech?
Associate
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Just about to fit a Zee rear mech onto my bike. Pinkbike review said it's one of the toughest rear mechs out there. It apparently still shift fine after bending it on a rock strike. I like that.
Weight wise, Zee is lighter than SLX and only slightly heavier than XT.
I have a SLX shifter, I don't think that make much difference nowadays. It's the cheapest one that allow me to take the indicator window off. I hate those pointless indicator windows.
Cassette wise, I have to use XT because of the soft alloy freehub on my Hope Pro IIs
Weight wise, Zee is lighter than SLX and only slightly heavier than XT.
I have a SLX shifter, I don't think that make much difference nowadays. It's the cheapest one that allow me to take the indicator window off. I hate those pointless indicator windows.
Cassette wise, I have to use XT because of the soft alloy freehub on my Hope Pro IIs
Soldato
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I see you got the X0 cranks from Merlin, would have done the same but they only had 73mm axle lengths in stock
It's my belief that 68 and 73 are the same and you alter it with bb spacers on the hollow tech bb! But I could be surprised by tonight! And yes they are from merlin.
Cow shhh you! Too many different kits for it all to match! Plus the price for that d3 was far too good!
I've been running a Zee Rear mech with an XT 11-36 cassette with my 1x10 setup for a few rides now. Not much to report other than it works superbly and shifting is great. No chain slap at all. Nice and quiet and tight with the clutch. I run it with an XTR shifter.
I see talking above of chain retention and the possibility of running without a guide with the new clutch type rear derailleurs. Have you all seen/heard of the new chainrings that are all coming to market right about now? It seems SRAM's XX1 (bespoke BCD) chainring is basically being copied and brought to market by other manufacturers at a much lower price point and common sizes including SRAM direct mount and 104 BCD.
The "technology" that offers superior chain retention on these chainrings, is the tooth spacing and shape. It's not so much the height of the teeth, but the width of them. Every other tooth is wide. So it goes wide then thin then wide and so on. This helps grip the chain. It grips it so well, one manufacturer (absoluteblack) claims it so good that they have pictured a chainring in mid air with a water bottle hanging off of it and it is being held only by the friction of a piece of 10spd chain a few links long.
SRAM XX1 was based on studies into the chain coming off the ring in slow motion, noticing that it was mainly side to side movement that caused a dropped chain. The aim is to prevent this.
There are a few more indy outfits making these rings including a couple in the USA.
Absolute Black (posts on some mtb forums)
Wolftooth (posts on some mtb forums)
MRP (rumour?)
Raceface
Works Components (UK but do not respond to email and items out of stock)
NSB
The most promising of the above for us UK folk, is RaceFace, mainly because Wiggle.co.uk currently lists the chainrings as a purchasable item but shows them as due late June. I have spoken to silverfish the UK supplier for RaceFace and they confirm wiggle may be the first place to get these in stock.
Wear rate is the only concern with these. Some people have said that XX1 wears quickly and with wear comes less chain retention. This however, is true with any chainring and is only really an issue if you start to depend on it for chain retention solely. These new wide/thin chainrings will start to replace single ring chainrings in time, as every manufacturer produces them with the same technology built in. At the end of the day, why wouldn't you? Already it looks like the RaceFace ones will be priced in line with normal single ring chainrings anyway... I say normal... £40 ish, so at the top end of the market, but no more than a hope Single ring, and a little more than say an E-Thirteen.
I think these chainrings paired with a clutch type rear mech is the future of 1x10 setups and will see a lot of people be able to ditch a guide all together. Already on other forums people have been running them with success over very rought terrain. In terms of wear, pro test riders have seen dropped chains due to wear after extensive testing (and I mean a LOT of riding like as a day job) which to the average rider who goes out for a once or twice a week, would still not see any issues for 6-12 months as a prediction from one of the above manufacturers. But then....they would say that.
Other criticism I have seen is possibility for chain suck, but nobody has reported issues with this in practice from the threads I have read. Again, the manufacturers say this will not be a problem.
I see talking above of chain retention and the possibility of running without a guide with the new clutch type rear derailleurs. Have you all seen/heard of the new chainrings that are all coming to market right about now? It seems SRAM's XX1 (bespoke BCD) chainring is basically being copied and brought to market by other manufacturers at a much lower price point and common sizes including SRAM direct mount and 104 BCD.
The "technology" that offers superior chain retention on these chainrings, is the tooth spacing and shape. It's not so much the height of the teeth, but the width of them. Every other tooth is wide. So it goes wide then thin then wide and so on. This helps grip the chain. It grips it so well, one manufacturer (absoluteblack) claims it so good that they have pictured a chainring in mid air with a water bottle hanging off of it and it is being held only by the friction of a piece of 10spd chain a few links long.
SRAM XX1 was based on studies into the chain coming off the ring in slow motion, noticing that it was mainly side to side movement that caused a dropped chain. The aim is to prevent this.
There are a few more indy outfits making these rings including a couple in the USA.
Absolute Black (posts on some mtb forums)
Wolftooth (posts on some mtb forums)
MRP (rumour?)
Raceface
Works Components (UK but do not respond to email and items out of stock)
NSB
The most promising of the above for us UK folk, is RaceFace, mainly because Wiggle.co.uk currently lists the chainrings as a purchasable item but shows them as due late June. I have spoken to silverfish the UK supplier for RaceFace and they confirm wiggle may be the first place to get these in stock.
Wear rate is the only concern with these. Some people have said that XX1 wears quickly and with wear comes less chain retention. This however, is true with any chainring and is only really an issue if you start to depend on it for chain retention solely. These new wide/thin chainrings will start to replace single ring chainrings in time, as every manufacturer produces them with the same technology built in. At the end of the day, why wouldn't you? Already it looks like the RaceFace ones will be priced in line with normal single ring chainrings anyway... I say normal... £40 ish, so at the top end of the market, but no more than a hope Single ring, and a little more than say an E-Thirteen.
I think these chainrings paired with a clutch type rear mech is the future of 1x10 setups and will see a lot of people be able to ditch a guide all together. Already on other forums people have been running them with success over very rought terrain. In terms of wear, pro test riders have seen dropped chains due to wear after extensive testing (and I mean a LOT of riding like as a day job) which to the average rider who goes out for a once or twice a week, would still not see any issues for 6-12 months as a prediction from one of the above manufacturers. But then....they would say that.
Other criticism I have seen is possibility for chain suck, but nobody has reported issues with this in practice from the threads I have read. Again, the manufacturers say this will not be a problem.
Associate
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I did have a look at those chainrings before getting the Hope ring that I have now.
The Wolftooth 30T was what I originally going to go for, but after reading about chain dropping after they wear, I got worried and decided to go for the Hope with top guide instead.
I don't mind having to replace the chainring every 6 months if it means running without a top guide, but the question is when do I need to change. There is no definite way of working out when the chain will start dropping. I think the only way to find out is out on the trail which in my opinion is no good.
If they managed to find a way of saying when the chainring needs to be replaced, maybe by measuring the thickness of the tooth or even a Go/Nogo tooth profile transparency to compare against the chainring, then I will definitely go for one of them.
The Wolftooth 30T was what I originally going to go for, but after reading about chain dropping after they wear, I got worried and decided to go for the Hope with top guide instead.
I don't mind having to replace the chainring every 6 months if it means running without a top guide, but the question is when do I need to change. There is no definite way of working out when the chain will start dropping. I think the only way to find out is out on the trail which in my opinion is no good.
If they managed to find a way of saying when the chainring needs to be replaced, maybe by measuring the thickness of the tooth or even a Go/Nogo tooth profile transparency to compare against the chainring, then I will definitely go for one of them.
They seem like a good idea and would like to try one for a while but I think that there is always going to be a place for chain devices on total mavity orientated bikes.
Only ring I want now is an MRP bling ring, direct mount goodness.
Only ring I want now is an MRP bling ring, direct mount goodness.
Soldato
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Theres a big thread on single track world about the various profiled chainring manufacturers. Personally I don't think they've been out long enough to offer any real durability info and how it affects chain retention. I want one though and one of those mrp amg guards, very new school!
Direct mount is nice, because when running certain guides like the E-Thirteen XCX on Shimano Cranks, I find on mine the spider arms fowl the guide if I run it at the lowest 32 tooth setting so it can't drop and run as low as it needs to. SRAM spiderless cranks with a direct mount would be good for this, and also being able to run a 30 tooth if one wanted - not that I would.
Yeah, they are cutting edge tech and buying now is being a guinea pig but I'm considering it. I don't understand why dropping a chain is such a big deal on the trail though. Why does it supposedly cause so many crashes?
For me, chainrings wear anyway, so why not buy it as a servicable item once every 6 months. I'd pay £40 every 6 months to not run a guide.
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