Big Bike Thread

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Are you sure Rob? Other suggestions state it would not affect it? What brings you to this conclusion? Guess? Experience? Read it elsewhere?

A look at the technical drawings, the lever rotates a cam which then presses against a band that wraps around the cam, when you tighten the band up the cam applies more pressure in the on position. Stands to reason its then harder to rotate said cam.
It will take you all of 1 minute to find out anyway, worth a try before taking it off your bike and sending it off.
 
In this picture of the inside of clutch assembly, it looks like there is a strange star-shaped bolt holding the lever in place. I'd guess tightening that would make the lever stiffer but i wouldnt want to mess around with it myself (especially as it looks like you need a special tool to do it)
 
A look at the technical drawings, the lever rotates a cam which then presses against a band that wraps around the cam, when you tighten the band up the cam applies more pressure in the on position. Stands to reason its then harder to rotate said cam.
It will take you all of 1 minute to find out anyway, worth a try before taking it off your bike and sending it off.

Totally. Will try later and post back. :) Will take a look at the technical drawings in a sec.
 
In this picture of the inside of clutch assembly, it looks like there is a strange star-shaped bolt holding the lever in place. I'd guess tightening that would make the lever stiffer but i wouldnt want to mess around with it myself (especially as it looks like you need a special tool to do it)

Cheers for that. Hmm. Is that an XTR one? Wonder if the Zee is the same. I will take a look when I get home and post some pics up.
 
It's a very different bike to the others.

Describe your riding preference and where you ride, then perhaps it wil be easier to recommend a bike.

What are the differences between the AL and the 29er versions, is it just the wheelsize or are they for totally different riding styles?
http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/series/nerve-al-29.html

I hope to mostly be doing red/blue trails but maybe also doing a bit of cross country but not a lot.

Really liking these Canyon Nerve bikes now. Everywhere I read seems to suggest people would regret a 26 over a 29. My mate has just bought a 29er HT and loves it.
 
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Nice Andelusion, but that chain ring is a bit incongruent with the rest if the build.

edit: ah, not the ring...the bashring thing.

Yeah I hate how it looks and would love an mrp or e13 but I genuinely never drop a chain with this setup (there is a thin bash on the granny tabs too) so I'm reluctant to change! I think a clutch mech and an mrp amg is in my future though.
 
What are the differences between the AL and the 29er versions, is it just the wheelsize or are they for totally different riding styles?
http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/series/nerve-al-29.html

I hope to mostly be doing red/blue trails but maybe also doing a bit of cross country but not a lot.

Really liking these Canyon Nerve bikes now. Everywhere I read seems to suggest people would regret a 26 over a 29. My mate has just bought a 29er HT and loves it.

All the bikes you've listed were different in geometry, travel and then wheelsize.
There are therefore sometimes subtle and not so subtle differences in the bike. All of the above however will do what you need them to do, so it's not like you can make a glaringly wrong decision, some will be more akin to going down faster, others will go up faster, some will corner better and so forth.

Whether you will notice any of the above on blue/red trails I doubt it, so go with your gut feel. (gut feel counts for a lot imo - I've been persuaded in the past to go for a bike that I didn't have "that feel" for and it turned out to ride as good as a bag of spanners)
 
Anyone run anything other than XT bottom brackets?

Surely Chris King/Hope BB's at 3 or 4 times the price can't be justified unless I'm missing something?

Can get a XTR bottom bracket for £19 from the germans.
 
Update on Zee Clutch mech.
I took the cover off and had a look. The lever arm switch that turns it on/off basically moves a cam. The Zee one is slightly different to some of the online guides I have seen where they remove the cover. They are quite confusing as some of the guides I have seen switch between an XT and an XTR one as part of the same guide. Anyway, with the Zee clutch mech, the Lever cannot be tightened individually. You can see in the pics below how it works. The cam slots onto the lever arm and when turned to on position, it clamps the friction spring up between the cam and the small bolt which tightens the spring around the clutch.

Consequently, in tightening the clutch up (winding the bolt inwards) this causes the lever switch arm to be harder to press on, as the cam has to wind round within a tighter space. So I can confirm, although the lever tightness cannot be adjusted individually, the tighter the clutch is, the tighter the lever is too.

I tried to replicate what I thought might have been happening on the trail where the lever arm switch is coming loose and setting it to the off position causing my dropped chains, but I could not replicate this even with the clutch set to default tightness. I tried extending the mech quickly and shaking it about, and the lever would not move. I find this a bit strange. It's almost like this would not be possible to happen on the trail. I'm still not sure if the lever coming loose is as a result of me dropping the chain running with no guide on the front, or if it is coming loose and actually causing the dropped chain.

Interestingly, I notice that the top most bolt hole of the three that secure the Zee mech cover, exactly lines up with the lever arm switch. If it does become apparent that the lever arm is a problem and coming loose, it would be quite easy to modify the mech to prevent this from ever happening. Just use a longer bolt that goes right through and into the lever arm, having previously drilled a small hole in the lever arm lined up with it.

coveron_leveron.jpg


coveroff_leveron.jpg


coveroff_leveroff.jpg


leveroff_cam_removed.jpg
 
If you really want to jam it in place, maybe the shimano buetac wasnt such a bad idea :p
I would rather do that than drill holes in it.

Another option to lock it without permanently modifying it might be to bend a small metal plate into an L shape and place it between the adjuster bolt and the friction plate hooked over the high edge of the cam to stop it from moving. in this sort of position:

6ubx.jpg
 
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If you really want to jam it in place, maybe the shimano buetac wasnt such a bad idea :p
I would rather do that than drill holes in it.

Another option to lock it without permanently modifying it might be to bend a small metal plate into an L shape and place it between the adjuster bolt and the friction plate hooked over the high edge of the cam to stop it from moving. in this sort of position:

6ubx.jpg

I'm not sure that would work. I think the cam would still turn round and just flip the L-shaped plate up and out of the way. But yes, certainly could explore that. I think a simple small hole in the lever arm would still work really easily. Not bothered about drilling a hole in it as you would never see it. But warranty could be an issue as you won't be able to buy spares for it.

The point is, shouldn't have to. This should work. The lever is solid and I'm struggling to see how this could be flicking to OFF in the middle of a ride. Wierd.
I'm going to go on another ride and observe more this time and also try putting the guide back onto see if this effects it.
 
Update on Zee Clutch mech.

Thats What I thought when I suggested it. But I didn't have anything to back it up with other than a couple of vids I've seen about tightning up the clutch. Which looked like it could effect the lever

Not sure if its been designed like that so you'll know your clutch needs adjusting before riding as it doesn't stay on.

Or

Coincidence
 
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