Big Bike Thread

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Brought a set of hope hoops today, gone 2nd hand but they look in good condition. I already have a front one but buying just a rear one was proving a pain. Means i'll have a spare front hope wheel should i need it.
New ones come with dt swiss 5.1 rim so might be lighter than my mavic ex721.

As for servicing them do you guys get the proper hope bearings or can you get cheaper compatible ones? Also need to buy the tools to do the bearing change.
 
I suppose you can get fake ones if you want to. :rolleyes:

The way he phrased the question was if to say Hope own brand bearings, i was pointing out Hope just use SKF.
 
Buy hope if you want, the only hope specific bearings you do need are the ones for the bottom bracket as they are non standard size, for the rest head down to your nearest bearing factor, buy a couple of the right size (6802 2RS For front from memory), pop the seals on them very carefully, clean out the oil with a strong de-greaser until all is totally clean and then lightly fill them with quality waterproof grease and replace the seals. This simple trick has help dramatically increase the life of the bearings I buy.
 
I suppose you can get fake ones if you want to. :rolleyes:

The way he phrased the question was if to say Hope own brand bearings, i was pointing out Hope just use SKF.

Yup that's what i meant :)

Where did you bring them from?

Oh dear :( seriously i've been spelling that wrong thing since i was at school, always get it wrong.

Buy hope if you want, the only hope specific bearings you do need are the ones for the bottom bracket as they are non standard size, for the rest head down to your nearest bearing factor, buy a couple of the right size (6802 2RS For front from memory), pop the seals on them very carefully, clean out the oil with a strong de-greaser until all is totally clean and then lightly fill them with quality waterproof grease and replace the seals. This simple trick has help dramatically increase the life of the bearings I buy.

Cheers i've seen a few guides online (inc the hope one) on how to do it so hopefully shouldn't be an issue
 
I bought some Japanese manufactured bearings from a local bearing supplier, the rear ones have been changed out of necessity due to an upgrade but I have over 6 months on the front ones now, I've ridden through the winter too and washed the bike regularly, not using any high pressure hoses though.

You've always got peace of mind buying known branded ones (SKF, FAG, INA) but as long as they're Japanese made they should be decent quality. I pack them with grease too like W!ll suggested. Even if they wear out after 6 months they're easy to replace.
 
Definitely repack all bearings, most come at a fill lever of between 1/3 or 1/2 full, but for low speed, such as all uses on a bike, you should pack to 100% to aid in sealing.
 
New bike pump sorted and forks feel much better but not given them a good test yet.

next dilema

1x10 or 2x10?

My zee rear mech is too short to take up the slack on my granny ring. Ditch the ring or get a longer mech.

I occasionally use it on the climbs but im running 36 and 22 atm so i was leaning more to going 1x10 with a 34 tooth ring.

Running 11-36 at the back
 
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Well im currently running a 32f and 11-34 rear and manage most stuff, i like to have the 22f to drop to when it gets really steep or im just tired. Once that all wears out im going to 1x11.

It totally depends what you ride.
 
CraigN I've been running 34T on the front and 36-12T on the rear and it has been fine for anything, find myself pushing 1:1 on most hard climbs now which is nice.
 
i have 1x9 setup pretty sure its a 32t at the front.
At first i struggled a bit but i am finding it easier and easier as my legs build up muscle more.
Definately wouldnt go back to 2 or 3 cogs at the front unless i was doing really long xc racing or sommet.
 
Is it worth getting a RP23 pushed?

My 1st Gen RP23 is in desperate need of a service and thinking of getting it pushed at the same time. Is it worth the extra £50 on top of a service?
 
Speaking of gear ratios, I got dragged round a short xc loop last night with my bike in "France spec" which consists of 34t on the front and 12-23t on the rear. That was enjoyable...
 
Is it worth getting a RP23 pushed?

My 1st Gen RP23 is in desperate need of a service and thinking of getting it pushed at the same time. Is it worth the extra £50 on top of a service?

It depends on what you want. I sold the rp23 on the t2 because I felt it was totally inadequate for the bike and didn't think a re tune would be enough. Had it done on the Blur which was more of a tweak. It resists bottom out but still feels plush. The only downside is there is less noticeable difference between settings. But...it performs that much better I don't care.
 
Is it worth getting a RP23 pushed?

My 1st Gen RP23 is in desperate need of a service and thinking of getting it pushed at the same time. Is it worth the extra £50 on top of a service?

Yes we'll worth it in my opinion. So much more plush and generally smoother to ride downhill. They will tune it to your needs whether you prefer it for climbing, descending or both.

I had mine tuned for a best of both worlds and love it. Only problem is the pro pedal isn't as effective when tuned. Ie it doesn't lock out as much.
 
Bearings in my Crossmax SX's have finally given up. They lasted 3 times as long as any of my Hope wheels so can't complain. Maybe I'll use the Blur for Torridon this weekend instead :p
 
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