Mechanics, could you give me a rough idea of price, please?

rhysduck said:
If you cant change the filters on the car then there's something wrong with you. It's super easy and saves you a few quid.
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No need to be on the offensive, it's a bit daunting to do any work on a car if you've never done it before.

Ask your friends if they know any mechanics that could help you out..?
 
front disks and pads are VERY easy to change on these cars, although the common thing is no dout if its not already snapped the retaining bolt that holds the disks will snap. It can make it a little more difficult then to fit the wheel while holding it in the air making sure the disk in in place lol.

and I agrea with the bleed nipple, it allows some of the old fluid out, if your getting new disks and pads id go for new fluid to, don't try this your self, you wont be abke to bleed the system correctly and it needs pressure bleeding aswell as the old fashion way will blow the seals . it is around £40 for a fluid change, pretty cheap I think.. as this is from an indipendant VW garage.

its ashame you don't live near me as I have built up a collection of the silly tools needed on VAG cars. id be able to now change your cv boot and everything else you was after or help/show for the future.
 
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Hah, how far away do you live? I'm considering doing the pads and discs myself, but considering I've bought them, I'll get a quote anyway. I'd still need to buy a jack and acquire the right kind of wrench.

I certainly won't be doing the brake fluid myself for the reasons you've mentioned.
 
Orionaut said:
As an aside, how old/what mileage was the car?

Oh and it is a good idea to release the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. It makes the job easier, drains out the burned brake fluid from the calliper and reduces the likelihood of damaging master cylinder seals etc.
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Also avoids all that dirty fluid possibly damaging the ABS sensor too.
 
Orionaut said:
As an aside, how old/what mileage was the car?

Standard callipers should slide back with little more than finger pressure. If they are significantly tighter than this they are probably partially seized and should be overhauled (Not difficult if you can get the seal kits) or replaced

(Rear callipers that incorporate the handbrake mechanism need to be wound back with a special tool. Just forcing them back will either not work (I have never tried) cause severe damage or both!)

Oh and it is a good idea to release the bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. It makes the job easier, drains out the burned brake fluid from the calliper and reduces the likelihood of damaging master cylinder seals etc.
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It's a 2004 MG ZS with about 83k miles. I think both calipers are dodgy as the inner pads were worn way more than the outside ones. I haven't done the fluid as I need an extra person but it really needs doing, the rear brakes are drums, is the bleed screw inside the drum? I'm scared to pop it open in case all the bits fall out :D
 
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