New (old) house renovation to have distributed AV!

Second issue was the LED's / Dimmers i have, they seem to work fine with 2 LED's installed apart from where i have a Master/ Slave (2Way) lighting setup, i assume this is due to the fact that to power up 2 switches a little more current is needed and this pulls about enough to have the LED's flashing very dimly when switched off, so my plan is to install an extra light onto the landing lights into the loft so that when switched on i will have light up there and also resolving my flicker problem.
The other 2 LED's i have is in my living room where i have a bank of 8 and then 2, 2 which will be over my dining table, im still trying to see what i can do about this one i'll probably end up with a RESLOADE which is basically a big resistor which simulates a 10w load on the circuit which should resolve my flicker problem.

You shouldn't have any problems with the dimmer & flickering lights, if it's a trailing edge model.

2 way switching shouldn't be a problem, if you use a TE dimmer one end & other end a ordinary switch.

As for two lights over the dining table wire them independently & use with a seperate dimmer.

One of the best dimmers I've use, is Varilight V-Pro trailing edge dimmer, they have one of the lowest minimum load settings of all, just 10 Watts.

One particular model 'V-Pro eclique dimmers' can be dimmed from multiple locations, using a eclique slave dimmer.
 
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You shouldn't have any problems with the dimmer & flickering lights, if it's a trailing edge model.

2 way switching shouldn't be a problem, if you use a TE dimmer one end & other end a ordinary switch.

As for two lights over the dining table wire them separately & use with a seperate dimmer.

One of the best dimmers I've use, is Varilight V-Pro trailing edge dimmer, they have one of the lowest minimum load settings of all, just 10 Watts.

They are trailing edge but the minimum load isn't as low as 2 LED's comes out with so its my fault i knew it was going to be an issue just need to overcome it :)
 
If your dimmer minimum load is 10w, then use 5w led's.

i'm using 6w led's there isn't a definitive minimum load set for these units, 40w halogen is what they quote and they're very picky about LED compatibility so i'll just have to add more load to those 2 circuits which i can do its just something else that needs done to get these remote switches working.
 
Does frog tape work with gloss then? I have new skirting to gloss over new oak flooring, been trying to find out if i can safely use frog tape with gloss for this purpose!!?

Some great progress, you have moved at a great pace - we are 5 years in and still dont have a single room completely finished!!!
 
Use Frog Tape Multi-Surface for bare wood & other surfaces or Frog Delicate Surface to stick to stained & varnished wood.

Have used both, no problems sticking either to the floor ok, allowing you to gloss the skirting.
 
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Use Frog Tape Multi-Surface for bare wood & other surfaces or Frog Delicate Surface to stick to stained & varnished wood.

Have used both, no problems sticking either to the floor ok, allowing you to gloss the skirting.

Brilliant, thanks for that :)

Do you tuck the tape under the skirting or does it seal so well you dont have to worry about run off?
 
Shouldn't be be a issue if you don't overload your brush, or applied the paint rather excessively & get runs.

I jun butt the tape up to the skirting, then use my sealant / grout tool, one end is flat , other end has a 45 degree wedge, find it great for running along the tape, just to make sure it's stuck properly.


http://www.frogtape.co.uk/frogtape-products/Products.html

Instead of using tape, if I'm being lazy, & there a gap under the skirting, I tend to use a strip of dpm sheet, it's stiff enough to stay in place & slide it under.
 
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Great thread and a great read! :)

Could you tell me where you got the remote control sockets from?
 
This automated over wifi light switch/socket stuff is interesting e.g to use to put the lights on at home when you are going to be late back. But can't help thinking that I would also need it to close the blinds/curtains too.
 
This automated over wifi light switch/socket stuff is interesting e.g to use to put the lights on at home when you are going to be late back. But can't help thinking that I would also need it to close the blinds/curtains too.

You can use relays and such from the same company to operate electric blinds & curtains but not something i want to do its just more wiring and fuss.

The main reason i got these was for mood lighting & switching lights off when im in bed on sette and cant be bothered to get up.
 
How are you finding the Lightwave stuff so far? I've been reading up on the various HA technologies, but I'm still on the fence as to which one to go with.

Its great for what im using it for which is being lazy and wanting to turn lights on and off without having to get up, means i can set moods with combos or lights, lamps and different brightness settings on my ceiling lights.

I'll eventually setup timers and things for my outside lights and im quite excited for their new heating range which is due for release soon to see if i can get my boiler working with this tech as well.

its by far the easiest to install without havint dedicated wiring and controllers located in your house so as a retrofit its one of the best options and cheaper than say a dedicated X10 setup which requires aditional wiriing to work.
 
Lightwave Rf is superb kit, well integrated, works superbly with a smartphone, iPod Touch or iPad.

I like the idea LightwaveRF being used with Door Chime, & able to operate lights when activated.
 
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Im quite excited for their new heating range which is due for release soon to see if i can get my boiler working with this tech as well.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but they have been promising the heating stuff will be 'soon' for well over a year (I'm waiting for it as well) so unless there's been something new on it that I haven't seen yet, I wouldn't expect anything in the near future.
 
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