Road Cycling Essentials

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Hi all, I am looking to do my second ride from Manchester to Sheffield this weekend, last time the two long climbs had my lower back in discomfort which is usual for me during long climbs and I presume usual for others but u wondered if there was any excersises I could do (core strengthening?) To help easy the pain during these long climbs. I find myself standing out of the saddle to stretch out my back once the discomfort bugs me and I know I have read it is more efficient to stay seated in the saddle during long clinbs.

It definitely sounds like a bike fit is in order. If normal riding hurts, then something probably isn't right. A decent bike fitter will not only be able to set up your bike correctly, but will be able to see from your pedalling style whether you are lacking strength somewhere in your body or aren't moving correctly.

Thanks. Bike fit is a result of the Evans guy saying "you look about my height" and adjusting the seat height until I said I was comfy. Where can I go for a proper fit or can I do thus myself?

There's loads more to it than just the seatpost height. I'm sure it's technically possible to figure it out yourself, but for the sake of endless trial and error it's probably easier to pay someone who knows what they're doing to do it.

rnickster said:
I got a new cassette recently with lower ratio so my 'easiest' gear is 'harder' to pedal than before but its just about right on the clumbs . not sure about when I try Winnats Pass uphill though!! Might wish for a different cassette. ;)

What gearing have you got? What cadence are you riding at? It might be you're straining yourself if you're pedalling too slowly, though I'd expect that to hit you in the knees rather than the back, but I suppose it could manifest anywhere really, depending on how you're set up and how you move.

This company is at the Velodrome in Manchester so perhaps not too far away. £60 for their basic service.

Yes, indeed, I had my bike fit with them. I spent £110 for the second tier service, which I think goes into a bit more depth and - crucially - means you can take your measurements away with you when you're done, so you can set up future bikes. It was expensive but it really was money well spent. I was having real trouble with my knees before the fit, and they have been so much better since then, and my riding has improved as a result.

Here is my write-up of my experience there.
 
Right, my handlebars appear to be a bit wonky. I think it's probably a result of my slide on the catseye the other week and my styling it out with a big of impromptu cyclocross mounting a big grass verge at speed. They seem to be slightly twisted to the right, so my left arm has to be stretched a bit further out to keep the front wheel straight.

How do I fix this? I mean, obviously I need to rotate the stem around the top of the fork, but how do I do that? Do I just loosen the two bolts on the back of the stem? Do I have to loosen the thingy in the top of the fork?

Cheers...
 
Sportex A60: 100% 1970's party time solid plastic racing saddle. Looks great. My bum disagrees :D
 
Right, my handlebars appear to be a bit wonky. I think it's probably a result of my slide on the catseye the other week and my styling it out with a big of impromptu cyclocross mounting a big grass verge at speed. They seem to be slightly twisted to the right, so my left arm has to be stretched a bit further out to keep the front wheel straight.

How do I fix this? I mean, obviously I need to rotate the stem around the top of the fork, but how do I do that? Do I just loosen the two bolts on the back of the stem? Do I have to loosen the thingy in the top of the fork?

Cheers...

The top cap pre-loads the fork and needs to be initially tightened before the stem bolts. So unscrew the top cap loosen stem bolts, realign the stem, top cap on and preload fork, tighten stem. Check for play/wobble in the fork holding the brake and rocking the bike on the spot. If there is play you didn't pre-load the fork enough so start again.
 
Right, my handlebars appear to be a bit wonky. I think it's probably a result of my slide on the catseye the other week and my styling it out with a big of impromptu cyclocross mounting a big grass verge at speed. They seem to be slightly twisted to the right, so my left arm has to be stretched a bit further out to keep the front wheel straight.

How do I fix this? I mean, obviously I need to rotate the stem around the top of the fork, but how do I do that? Do I just loosen the two bolts on the back of the stem? Do I have to loosen the thingy in the top of the fork?

Cheers...

Loosen top bolt (1 full turn should be enough), loosen stem bolts, set stem so it's in line with front wheel, tighten top bolt (1 full turn), then tighten stem bolts.
 
Spent today riding around above 2000m with a few shortish climbs. Altitude does some odd things - going along a flat at 15mph felt like a struggle! Wind can be nasty in places too. Also punctured for the second time on the trip, yet again on the rear tyre but this is the tyre I had to replace after Tuesday's blowout!

Last day riding tomorrow - we're going to ascend Teide from the south this time. Won't be looking to break any records, it looks tougher than the other ascents we've done and legs are a bit sore from the climbing we've done so far. It's quite difficult to cover any serious mileage here though unless you are in really, really good shape!
 
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Spent today riding around above 2000m with a few shortish climbs. Altitude does some odd things - going along a flat at 15mph felt like a struggle! Wind can be nasty in places too. Also punctured for the second time on the trip, yet again on the rear tyre but this is the tyre I had to replace after Tuesday's blowout!

Last day riding tomorrow - we're going to ascend Teide from the south this time. Won't be looking to break any records, it looks tougher than the other ascents we've done and legs are a bit sore from the climbing we've done so far. It's quite difficult to cover any serious mileage here though unless you are in really, really good shape!

This route looks pretty crazy! http://www.strava.com/segments/2075887

Do it!!
 
Hoping to get back on the bike soon, but the weather is a lot colder now (had the de-ice the windscreen a couple of times already). On the list will be some unpadded bib tights and race blade longs.

Any suggestions on a reasonable but cheap jacket for keeping warm and surviving some rain over winter? Don't want to spend more than about £40 if I can help it, the jacket everyone recently got won't have been cheap as it was £80 for the larger sizes IIRC.

Was looking at the dhb windslam jacket, then came across the endura gridlock jacket: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/endura-gridlock-jacket-2013/rp-prod9268

Looks to be a heavier jacket so not something to put in the back pocket if you get too hot - but is that likely to be an issue during winter?
 
I've got an Eundura and it's good but in terms of warmth I rely on a base layer. Can't be doing with big, heavy and thick jackets when one extra thin layer does a better job.
 
We've had an email round work this afternoon saying they're looking for relay teams for next year's London triathlon. I was mulling it over when a colleague sent me an email saying that he'll run if I'll bike, and then we're just left looking for a swimmer. They're entering teams for the Olympic distance competition, so that's 1500m swimming, 40km cycling and 10km running.

It's in August next year, and work would pay for the entry fee, provided I threw in a £20 donation to their charitable foundation. I assume I'd just need to sort out travel and a hotel.

So, watch this space... I might be looking for tips on how to speed up my riding between now and next August. I know I'm good for the distance (25 miles? Pffft) so it'd be speed I'd need to be working on.
 
I've got an Eundura and it's good but in terms of warmth I rely on a base layer. Can't be doing with big, heavy and thick jackets when one extra thin layer does a better job.

I've already got a merino base layer which is why I wasn't 100% on the endura as it does look quite big and bulky and perhaps unnecessarily so with a baselayer.

The dhb windslam soft shell doesn't look too bulky and should provide plenty of warmth. I'm thinking to get that for now and see how I go with rain etc, don't particularly fancy riding in constant rain so if it will keep me dry through light rain showers then I would be happy with that, or is it too light to provide much protection from rain? Just cycling for pleasure/fitness so can try and pick my times around the weather but don't want to get too drenched if caught out in the rain.
 
We've had an email round work this afternoon saying they're looking for relay teams for next year's London triathlon. I was mulling it over when a colleague sent me an email saying that he'll run if I'll bike, and then we're just left looking for a swimmer. They're entering teams for the Olympic distance competition, so that's 1500m swimming, 40km cycling and 10km running.

It's in August next year, and work would pay for the entry fee, provided I threw in a £20 donation to their charitable foundation. I assume I'd just need to sort out travel and a hotel.

So, watch this space... I might be looking for tips on how to speed up my riding between now and next August. I know I'm good for the distance (25 miles? Pffft) so it'd be speed I'd need to be working on.
Awesome - I'm doing the Olympic distance too so I might see you there if they're mixing up the relays and soloists. I think I'm signed up for the Sunday :)

I could do with finding a route where I can get a 25 mile ride in with no traffic lights so I know what sort of time I can do that distance in.
 
Awesome - I'm doing the Olympic distance too so I might see you there if they're mixing up the relays and soloists. I think I'm signed up for the Sunday :)

I could do with finding a route where I can get a 25 mile ride in with no traffic lights so I know what sort of time I can do that distance in.

Our event is on the 2nd, which is the Saturday.

The best distance I can come up with near me, without any disruptions, is 10 miles with just a couple of sets of lights in the first mile. It's a long stretch of road across some moorland. It's quite hilly, but it would probably be a pretty good bet for me.

I'm also already considering entering the Manchester 52 closed road ride, which is about a month beforehand, to get some experience of riding closed roads at speed with lots of other people.
 
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