Road Cycling Essentials

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Hey guys what's the best gear ratio I should go for fixed?

46/18?

I don't want anything heavy, I wan' it to be easy and comfortable peddling for the lazy rider I am.

Also arm length is 170mm good or should I go for 175mm?

Im 6ft3I'm

All suggestions are welcome, I got a cheap frame off eBay 62cm and going to convert it to fixed. This is the first time I've ever done something like this. I just want to make sure I get the correct gear ratio

Have a look here; http://www.surplace.fr/ffgc/

46/18 would be pretty spinny for covering any distance but for pootling around town it's fine.

Shorter cranks are better for fixed as you have to keep pedalling round corners a shorter crank helps avoid pedal strike.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;26165377 said:
Have a look here; http://www.surplace.fr/ffgc/

46/18 would be pretty spinny for covering any distance but for pootling around town it's fine.

Shorter cranks are better for fixed as you have to keep pedalling round corners a shorter crank helps avoid pedal strike.

Thank you,

So 170mm should be fine for crank?

I don't want anything too Spinny for gear ratio. I will be casually commuting around west London maybe 10-15 miles.

Thanks again
 
Thank you,

So 170mm should be fine for crank?

I don't want anything too Spinny for gear ratio. I will be casually commuting around west London maybe 10-15 miles.

Thanks again

Start with that ratio. If it's too low then you can adjust.

I run 48/18 on one bike and 49/17 on the other. But the end of the summer I want to be back at 48/16, but that's SS rather than FG.

When I used to run fixed I was doing 16-20 miles each way on 48/16 in the winter. It was killing my knees into the predominately westerly winds on the way home.

I also used to have 165mm cranks. If you are 6'3" then 165mm is probably too short for you.
 
What make was the cassette and freehub body?

Glad your OK, bet that was nasty to say the least.

Shimano R500 and HG50 9 speed cassette, all relatively new.

It felt fine on the way home after a good clean the other day, I know how to fit a cassette, I torqued it up properly so I can only assume I've been unlucky!

Walking like John Wayne now to be fair :o

I'm glad it happened where it did as I sprinted onto a busy roundabout in EK at about 35mph out of the saddle and on the drops so.....could have been worse.
 
First time out after a day at work. I felt strong and put in a good ride. Aside from the rather annoying saddle sore that has been bothering me I am pretty pleased with this form now. Its really picked up in the last month.
http://app.strava.com/activities/130589643

I also found out why the inner chainring was so noisy on my "new to me ultratorque chainset" - the 34T was bent. Replaced it with a TA 36T - £34 from wiggle. 50-36 seems about right for me at present.
 
Started my ride and felt a bit meh! But as time progressed I felt stronger and eventually decided to extend the ride and go up a local climb. Felt awesome. A new PR. Chuffed :)
 
Trying to set up the gears on my bike from scratch after rebuild.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA *chokes up a bit of vomit* short pause HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHHHAAAA

I have no idea what I'm doing. Long live single speed.
 
What do you want in a wheel? If it's aero then it's carbon tubulars all the way for me. I've just bought my first set of tubs and I'm delighted with them so far. You could get a set of 50mm tubs off eBay for half the price of the Mavics and they would be lighter, stiffer and nicer to ride then equivalent clinchers.

If it's lightweight then you have both carbon tub and alloy clincher options. I'd either go Novatec or DT Swiss hubs (depending on budget) and 38mm chinese carbon tub rims or DT Swiss RR415 clinchers.

I have cosmic carbones on my good bike. I really like them. They're not light but once you get up to speed, they're fast.

Mine came with my bike but i probably wouldnt have chosen them if not. PlanetX do something similar (alloy rim with carbon fairing) for a couple of hundred less.

If it's for a race bike or special occasion bike that only gets used once or twice a month, full carbon tubulars would be the best choice.
I wouldnt want tubular tyres or carbon braking surfaces for a daily-use bike though.

I'm still tempted with splashing some cash on my summer bike , I'll admit its mainly because I have some spare cash.

I've currently got a Orbea Orca carbon frame with Shimano 105 Groupset and Fulcrum 5 wheels. Working on the assumption I have £700~ what are people suggestions for an upgrade?

I'm fairly heavy rider 85KG riding mostly on flat surfaces with most rides 40 miles upwards.

Any suggestions would be appreciated
 
Had yet another puncture tonight, luckily it was on my drive!

Had a look this evening after being out on the MTB and noticed it had a similar hole in the sidewall to my other tyre, mmm lets take a look at the brake blocks!

Looked as though the buggers had been rubbing! So have had to whack on my only spare tyre which is slick, hope it doesn't rain over the next few days!
 
Trying to set up the gears on my bike from scratch after rebuild.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA *chokes up a bit of vomit* short pause HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHHHAAAA

I have no idea what I'm doing. Long live single speed.

Haha YouTube has your answers!
 
Trying to set up the gears on my bike from scratch after rebuild.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA *chokes up a bit of vomit* short pause HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHHHAAAA

I have no idea what I'm doing. Long live single speed.

I've just been out having more shed time, doing the cabling on my old bike. I got a Jagwire kit. They're clearly great cables, and it's got a billion bits and extras, but the instructions are TERRIBLE. OK, so they're fine in terms of "post the cable through here, feed it in here, put some end caps on the housing, etc, etc" but where they fall down is on telling you what all the random bits in the box are for. And why are all these end caps different? Why do these ones have sticky outy bits on? Why is this one gold with a rubber bit in it? WTF. Some of it I've figured out, some of the bits I've just left be. At the end of the day, so long as the cable pulls at the right places and has caps in all the right places I'm sure I'll be fine.

Oh yeah, and the instructions should tell you that the two lengths of brake cable are not the same length. I merrily cut the front cable to size, installed it, then went to do the back one and OH NO. We'd be doing just fine if the rear caliper was halfway along the top tube, but sadly in the real world we're about a foot short. Damn it. So, another trip to Evans to buy a brake cable this time.

I may also buy some cable cutters. It turns out the £6 ones I bought on ebay aren't even worth £6. After utterly mauling the gear cable housing I ended up borrowing my neighbour's Icetoolz cutters and they were soooooo much better. They are expensive though, for a tool I'll only need very rarely and could borrow, but on the other hand now is a great time to be buying stuff, because as long as I'm fixing up this bike for my wife to ride it's her that I'm buying all these tools for :D

Anyway, I managed OK with my gear cables. Once I got them taut the gears shifted pretty much fine, even though I'd taken the derailleurs on and off, cleaned them and re-done the cables. I need to adjust the limit screws a tiny bit - the rear derailleur can be pushed in a bit too far to brush the spokes if you think you've got another gear to go at the back and the chain is clanking a bit at the front, though obviously the latter is less of a worry as it's less likely to write off a derailleur or a wheel or, you know, the person riding the bike.

It also seems that 2300 gears aren't all that bad in terms of shifting if the cables are in half decent nick. Who knew.
 
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Oh yeah, and the instructions should tell you that the two lengths of brake cable are not the same length. I merrily cut the front cable to size, installed it, then went to do the back one and OH NO. We'd be doing just fine if the rear caliper was halfway along the top tube, but sadly in the real world we're about a foot short. Damn it. So, another trip to Evans to buy a brake cable this time.

Well one brake is just in front of the lever and the other is at the opposite end of the bike :p

But thats why you always do a bit of preparation before hand, and get all your bits out and all your tools then line it up on the bike before you make any cuts :)
 
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