Road Cycling Essentials

Status
Not open for further replies.
They're over a year old, were on my Raleigh which I bought in October 2013. I'm going to give them a ring but not holding out much hope.

Edit - just rang and only 12 months warranty. Only started using them recently. Oh well.

I don't know much about wheel composition but surely that's fixable for far cheaper than replacing the wheel? :confused:

it is the "base" version for £99! :) the only difference between the base/elite is the GPS tracking afaik, the rest is the same when it comes to sensor/quality etc! :) yeah, as soon as you plug it in and download the garmin virb software it asks you to update it, done it of course, no idea how unstable it was with original firmware but right now it seems to be fine - only a couple of hours worth of recording tho so it's a bit too early to tell!

that was 720p, 1080p is sharper and IMO for the price it is a great a camera! :)

traffic on that road is really bad! yesterday was kinda "usual" it gets a lot worse and goes from bishops bridge road to brixton on REALLY bad days.. pain up the bum.

Ahhh cool, what devices do you have yours paired with? Garmin 610/810? I actually don't have a Garmin but I'm using Garmin sensors (GSC10) paired to my phone (IpBike)... Although fairly sure I won't get the data overlay as the sensors pair with the computer and the VIRB uses data imported from that?

You deal with a ton more traffic than me - although I have narrower roads with predominantly stationary/stop-start traffic on my commute home with little/no space for cyclists... :rolleyes::(

Quite interested in what lights and high vis you're using (if you have the time to detail which/why/where) - same goes for anyone else really commuting in traffic/inner city where being seen is almost more important than actually seeing where you're going. All of my commuting riding is on the same roads mostly under street lights.

I'm slightly paranoid after being knocked off that I'm not visible enough! :eek::confused:
 
Joking aside it is quite cool. Can you make a hyper-lapse of it?

it does have options to speed it up etc, I'll give it a shot on a 10 minute video just to see how it renders up!

And all those hills :eek:

I KNOW! burning quads etc ;)

Ahhh cool, what devices do you have yours paired with? Garmin 610/810? I actually don't have a Garmin but I'm using Garmin sensors (GSC10) paired to my phone (IpBike)... Although fairly sure I won't get the data overlay as the sensors pair with the computer and the VIRB uses data imported from that?

You deal with a ton more traffic than me - although I have narrower roads with predominantly stationary/stop-start traffic on my commute home with little/no space for cyclists... :rolleyes::(

Quite interested in what lights and high vis you're using (if you have the time to detail which/why/where) - same goes for anyone else really commuting in traffic/inner city where being seen is almost more important than actually seeing where you're going. All of my commuting riding is on the same roads mostly under street lights.

I'm slightly paranoid after being knocked off that I'm not visible enough! :eek::confused:

I have garmin 800, it is not paired up with the virb :) the way it works is -;

record video and ride with both devices
once imported in the editor sync the GPX file(either manual import or auto import with the software)
choose which ever overlay you want(quite a few around, automotive, cycling, etc) move/remove the bits you wants - my video only has gps track and speedo, you've got options for temp, elev, HR, cadence etc.

as far as my kit goes I have no high visibility kit on me :)

I've got this set of lights on my bike -;

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/moon-meteor-comet-light-set/

does the job! front is very good to be SEEN and ok to SEE on over-ride setting(200lumens with good optics)

my brother nearly rear ended a motorbike today.. not even sure how he didn't see it!

 
If you want to get the overlay and all that malarky do you have to manually sync/edit/whatever the video or is there a setting where that will happen automatically?
 
I'm having trouble eliminating a bit of play I have in the headset on my new bike that has developed over the past month. It's about 1mm of play you can see/feel if you rock it back and forth with the front brake on.

I've loosened the stem and nipped up the top cap several times but still have the same amount of play. Is it possible that the steerer has been cut just a smidge too long so it's not possible to compress the stem/spaces enough to remove the play?
 
If you want to get the overlay and all that malarky do you have to manually sync/edit/whatever the video or is there a setting where that will happen automatically?

manual job sadly! :) it's a bit tricky too.. say my yesterdays video started 2 minutes before I started logging my ride with my garmin so I had to set the gps point in the software to match the part of the video - not as easy as it may seem! especially getting the speedo in sync :) not that it's needed really..
 
Quite interested in what lights and high vis you're using (if you have the time to detail which/why/where) - same goes for anyone else really commuting in traffic/inner city where being seen is almost more important than actually seeing where you're going. All of my commuting riding is on the same roads mostly under street lights.

I'm slightly paranoid after being knocked off that I'm not visible enough! :eek::confused:

I have an Endura high vis jacket, and a high vis backpack. I've got two rear lights, a cheap one that I set to flash, and a Moon Comet that stays on constant.
On the front I have three lights:
Lumenator 2000 (mtbbatteries.co.uk) - I have this set to constant low, and switch to medium on unlit roads, it's awesome!
Moon Crescent - Set to flash
Bikehut Super Bright - Also set to flash, pretty useless at 7.5 lux (not sure how you can class that as 'super bright').
Finally I have a Cree T6 torch in my backpack, as a backup

To be honest I think you could be lit up like a Christmas tree, and still somebody will probably claim not to see you.
 
I'm having trouble eliminating a bit of play I have in the headset on my new bike that has developed over the past month. It's about 1mm of play you can see/feel if you rock it back and forth with the front brake on.

I've loosened the stem and nipped up the top cap several times but still have the same amount of play. Is it possible that the steerer has been cut just a smidge too long so it's not possible to compress the stem/spaces enough to remove the play?

Check that the top cap is not hitting the top of the steerer tube when you tighten. There should be 3-4mm of stem or spacer sticking up above the top of the steerer before you put the top cap on.
Also check that the star nut is not sliding up the inside of the steerer when you're tightening.
 
To be honest I think you could be lit up like a Christmas tree, and still somebody will probably claim not to see you.

They have to actually look in order to see.

Latest review news from Asprilla: BBB Arctic Conditions overshoes are much warmer than BBB Ultraflex overshoes. Fact.

I know this because I put on odd overshoes this morning.

Also, beards are great for cold weather cycling, this is a revelation for me despite every bloke who as ever climbed Everest having one.
 
Last edited:
manual job sadly! :) it's a bit tricky too.. say my yesterdays video started 2 minutes before I started logging my ride with my garmin so I had to set the gps point in the software to match the part of the video - not as easy as it may seem! especially getting the speedo in sync :) not that it's needed really..

I'm mostly bothered about the map part of things to be honest. It would be really helpful for planning routes in future :)

Sounds like a faff though...
 
I'm mostly bothered about the map part of things to be honest. It would be really helpful for planning routes in future :)

Sounds like a faff though...

it is.. but I just found one feature that I forgot existed! the remote control :)

set it up so when I click "start" on my workout it automatically starts recording too... and when I stop(not pause) it saves the video recorded for that duration - all from garmin 800, literally no need to touch the camera! :)

that'll make things a lot easier!

and map is very easy to add, much easier than the speedo I'd say
 
Last edited:
Check that the top cap is not hitting the top of the steerer tube when you tighten. There should be 3-4mm of stem or spacer sticking up above the top of the steerer before you put the top cap on.
Also check that the star nut is not sliding up the inside of the steerer when you're tightening.

Thank you, I've just had a closer look and the top part which the cap screws into isn't sitting flush with the steerer, is that relevant or does it not matter?

2RvkDQM.jpg.png
 
I'm having trouble eliminating a bit of play I have in the headset on my new bike that has developed over the past month. It's about 1mm of play you can see/feel if you rock it back and forth with the front brake on.

I've loosened the stem and nipped up the top cap several times but still have the same amount of play. Is it possible that the steerer has been cut just a smidge too long so it's not possible to compress the stem/spaces enough to remove the play?

As long as the top bolt is threaded onto the nut within your steerer tube you should be able to compress effectively. When you say 'new' do you mean brand new? 2nd hand and you've just bought it new??
 
Thank you, I've just had a closer look and the top part which the cap screws into isn't sitting flush with the steerer, is that relevant or does it not matter?

It shouldnt matter as long as the top cap bolt goes into it without crossthreading.
It looks like it might have pulled out a bit as you've been tightening the top bolt though? That may be why you cant get it tight.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom