What did you do to your bike today?

6000k will look very blue, i've had 4000k in a car before even those looked pretty blue.

They're sending me the 4300s, so I can swap them over pretty easily if they're too blue.

Headlamps running on dipped beam seem to work ok.

I'm sure they do. Common wisdom seems to be that the halos stick out much more in the daytime than HIDs due to the very distinct cut-off of the projector meaning that the light isn't actually that visible to drivers.
 
Just accept it :p.

I won't jam up this thread with updates until I've finished the whole thing, but here's what they look like when fully installed:

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If you're going to change the lights and tinker etc, the next thing to do is get some LED lights and put them in the shape of a smile just under the nose :D
 
Couldn't resist the weather today, caved in and got her out of hibernation.

Absolutely stinking with all the salt though, deceiving on the dry roads. So quick wash down and back to bed :o

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First ride to work and back on the super four, oh Jesus praise the lord - I have the power to overtake! :D

Followed a couple of L platers on 125's through a tunnel, they gave thier bikes a rev, so I gave mine a rev too, just to put them in their place ;)

It's so nice having a headlight that actually outputs light aswell! Followed a big BMW X6 which going onto a dual carriageway gave it the beans, needless to say it was quickly despatched :D
 
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not directly bike related but I needed a workbench for when I do work on my bikes, so i knocked this together. Just need a work top now.

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a nice worktop on there now eddie,you can tumble your smalls while your working away at your bits:eek::D

cheap chipboard kitchen worktop/offcut would be ideal

It's good for you clear the cob webs away I enjoyed my shopping day ride today, fresh is the word your looking for :p

ohh no,today was just awfull
 
Today I wired up my garage remote to my high beams. It runs directly from the high beam switched supply, so no need for the 12V battery and it will never run out of juice. It's located under the seat in the battery compartment.

It basically involved soldering a jumper cable between the switch contacts so that the switch is effectively always closed. Then a lead is soldered between the negative on the remote's PCB and the negative on the battery, and another lead runs from the high beam switched supply on the bike and the positive on the remote.

This method will not work it you have a 3-6-9V remote. You'll need to use additional components. Also this method means that the remote broadcasts a signal every time the high beam is switched, whether from the high beam pass switch or the main high beam switch.

Whether this is a problem or not depends on whether your remote is the type that constantly transmits with the switch held or if like mine it sends one signal then stops until pressed again. Even if it's the former, it's not a particular problem in reality, since a) there are millions of combinations so you're unlikely to open up loads of random garages on your journey and b) it's just a radio transmitter, so the 'it'll wear it out quickly' thing is a myth, besides which they're like £6 on eBay.
 
Nothing other than start it up and let it get up to operating temperature. I don't have an Optimate or anything like that, so I like to fire it up three or four times over winter when I'm not riding it (last ridden in November) until I can get out on it again.

I don't normally ride whilst there's salt and all sorts of muck being put down on the roads.
 
That's very bad for a bike as it builds up condensation in the engine and exhaust. Better to leave it, or remove battery and charge it separately
 
That's very bad for a bike as it builds up condensation in the engine and exhaust. Better to leave it, or remove battery and charge it separately

That's what I thought too. Always just leave mine for a few months over winter with a battery trickle charger on.
 
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